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By mike56vicky - 2 Years Ago
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New member, first post! This is a great forum and I plan to use it frequently on my first major restoration project. I have a 56 Crown Victoria, Raven Black, with M code 292 and Fordomatic transmission. The car is now nearly completely disassembled and ready to begin frame-off restoration. My Dad purchased the car used in 1958 and has been in our family ever since. While it has been garaged nearly the entire time, it has neither been started nor driven in over 25 years. I am starting my list of purchase items for upcoming swap meets and online shopping and want to confirm what I am starting with in the engine and get suggestions for budget upgrades. I plan to keep the 292 and don't need a hot rod or race car. It will not be a daily driver but will only be driven on fair weather weekend cruising and to area car shows. I want something the starts and runs reliably, decent gas mileage and little maintenance/tuning. So to start I have a few questions:
1) Engine block - The casting numbers are EDB 6015 A. I understand this to be a 55-57 Dearborn 292. Is that correct? I do know that this is a rebuilt engine and not the original engine to the car. There is an aluminum plate attached to the side of the engine with 3 different overbore numbers. See attached pic. Numbers are in the following sequence: 040, 020, 030. I would have expected one of them to be marked in some way to indicate the cylinder overbore for the rebuild, but can't see any marking. Do these 3 numbers all indicate something on this tag?
2) Carburetor - The intake manifold appears to be the standard 56 4bbl intake with casting numbers ECZ-9425-A. It has the original Holley "teapot" 4bbl carb. As long as I can remember, we always had issues with the carb despite a few rebuilds. I would like to upgrade to a later model 390-450 cfm carb. I realize that I will either need to find an "ECZ-B" intake (which are difficult to find and expensive), or use an adapter plate (such as Trans-dapt) to attach the larger bore carb to the smaller stock intake. Are there any issues with using these adapters and are there any suggestions on good street carb to use for my engine?
3) Ignition - The engine still has the original Loadomatic distributor which I know I will need to replace if I change the carb. I would like to go to electronic ignition. As with the intake, the 57 and later distributors appear to be difficult to find and expensive. It also sounds like I should avoid the rebuilt Cardone y-block distributors based on info from this forum. Has anyone used the Pertronix D135700 distributor made specifically for the y-block? Would this work for my 56 292? Or what about all those billet electronic distributors (Maxx performance, CRT performance) for y-blocks that you see on ebay for $200. Has anyone ever used one of these or are they cheap import junk?
Any other suggestions for a budget 292 upgrade would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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By Deyomatic - 2 Years Ago
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I had an Edelbrock 500 with manual choke on my '55 Fairlane years ago and it ran great for general street use. I "made" the adapter out of a 1" carb spacer and ported the intake holes so that the air would have a nice smooth, clear path. I used the appropriate gasket as the template, then drilled through and countersunk for Allen bolts to hold it to the 9425-A intake. It worked great.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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I see the "B" intakes on ebay fairly often; expect to pay about $300 + shipping for a nice one. You can also take a look at Mummert's aluminum intake manifold, but it does not have the heat crossover for the choke. The crossover isn't necessary/w electric choke, but it might take longer to warm up engine, if you live in a colder climate.
If you can get your Teapot carburetor sorted out, it can be modified to work with 57-up distributors/w both vacuum and centrifugal advance. You can find the article for modifying the Teapot at eatonbalancing.com. The modification is pretty simple.
You can find block and cylinder head identification information @ ford-y-block.com.
That aluminum tag/w .020/.030/.040 is a new one for me. You're right, it would make sense if one of the numbers had been marked if the block has been bored. Otherwise, I see no reason for attaching the tag.
Ted tested the CRT distributor about 6 months ago/w positive results. He posted it on this site. 59-up non tach-drive distributor will work well with a 57-up carburetor. They used to be very affordable, but it might take some time to find one.
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By charliemccraney - 2 Years Ago
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The numbers on the tag are bore, rods and mains but not necessarily in that order. The ink or paint that was originally on the tag, which has since come off, would have identified them. It doesn't matter. If you need to rebuild it, you will know all of that once it is torn down.
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By Dave V - 2 Years Ago
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Those carb adapters work very well. PM me if you need a 57 or later distributor. Dave
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By Joe-JDC - 2 Years Ago
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If the engine has been rebuilt, those numbers probably mean the bore size, rod and crank dimensions, but not necessarily in that order. It will need a complete disassembly and inspection to determine that for sure. Joe-JDC
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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Welcome to the site. I too have a M code 56. I first changed to a later distributor then added a Pertronix ll because of condenser failures. I directly bolted a 1953 Cadillac Carter WCFB to my A manifold with a 3/8”phenolic spacer for heat. A minor fabrication for the throttle rod and the fuel line went identical to the Holley into the back. Adapted the factory air cleaner so it looked stock and drove trouble free for 4 years. I still have it all but went to dual quads.
if your engine needs freshened then don’t get sold on other boring or crank work. Your 20-30 crank may just need polishing and be fine. If it does need boring and it’s .040” over now you don’t need to go to .060”. Stock 312 pistons are .050” over a 292 and replacement piston and Hastings rings are shelf items. A good machine shop will do it all with power honing If you need it. When apart guys here will tell you how to modify the center cam bearing or mount in the block for better rocker arm oiling if it was not done. Good luck and keep us informed.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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If you put 312 pistons into a 292, don't you have to use 312 connecting rods as well? The 312 rods are shorter to compensate for the increased stroke of a 312.
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By NoShortcuts - 2 Years Ago
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55blacktie (2/21/2022)
If you put 312 pistons into a 292, don't you have to use 312 connecting rods as well? The 312 rods are shorter to compensate for the increased stroke of a 312.
55blacktie. 312 pistons can be used with a 292 crank and rods. 292 pistons will not work with a 312 crank. The OEM skirt of a 292 piston will have interference with the 312 crank throws. The skirt of the OEM 292 piston is not the same as the OEM skirt of the 312 piston.
The piston pin location is the same for all OEM 292 and OEM 312 pistons with one exception. The 1961-1964 HD 292 truck engines (with the forged steel crank and C1TE connecting rods) had pistons with a different piston pin height.
Below is a link to a chart on John Mummert's website.
http://www.ford-y-block.com/dimensions.htm
Hope this helps. 
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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Watch the compression height of those off-the-shelf cast pistons, some of which can be as much as 0.035 below the deck.
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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If you you choose to use a 312 standard piston in a 292 rebuild be sure to use 312 rings a they are different thicknesses.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 2 Years Ago
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Mike, I can supply an ECZ-B intake manifold for way less than the ebay price. It has had a front ear broken and repaired. Since your car isn't going to be a "correct" show car, the repair, although well done, won't be an issue. It can be bought $125 cheaper than the ebay one. I don't know where you are, but shipping cast iron isn't very cheap. I can also supply a manifold with no repairs for $50 less than the ebay one.
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By mike56vicky - 2 Years Ago
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Thank you all very much for all of your feedback. I am taking note of everything as I decide what route I will take. I will definitely find out what I have once I tear down the engine and take the block to a machine shop. There are a few good ones in the Wichita, Ks area and I will pass on the info you all provided. So please keep the info coming! There are a few swap meets coming up near me and I will see what parts are available, so I may contact some of you at some point who have parts available for sale.
I do have one other related upgrade question about electrical. I plan to replace all wiring with a new wiring harness kit (probably one from Rebel). The car still had the original 12v generator. I am wondering if an upgrade to a later style alternator would be beneficial? If so, should I go with just a standard Ford 1G style 1 wire which I believe still needs an external regulator, or go with a GM 1 wire with internal regulator. Are there any major wiring changes required with going with an alternator?
Thanks again!
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By charliemccraney - 2 Years Ago
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If you need to rely on it, install an alternator. They are available 100% brand new and will work reliably for years, if not decades whereas the generator cannot be totally brand new in any practical sense, and therefore compromises are made even when rebuilt.
There are pros and cons between a multiwire and 1 wire alternator. 1 wire is the cleanest and easiest install. If the car will be more or less stock, 1 wire will be just fine. If it will have modern upgrades, like a stereo or other devises that require more power, then a multiwire might be the better choice.
The key item to get right with an alternator swap is the drive ratio. On a Y Block with a stock or replacement damper, it is impossible to get that optimal but a 2 3/8" pulley gets it as close as it can be and makes a big difference. Many alternators come with a 2 5/8" pulley installed. The ratio needs to be about 3:1, while keeping the max alternator speed below 18000rpm. On a stock or mild Y (which is most of them), that upper limit is not a problem but it can require compromise for the really powerful ones.
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By mike56vicky - 2 Years Ago
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The car will remain pretty much stock, but I do hope to someday add VintageAir A/C which would definitely add some power demand. As mentioned before, this will not be a hot rod and the engine will be stock power but with drivability upgrades such as newer carb and electronic ignition. I did read some articles about pulley size and getting alternators to charge correctly at lower RPMs. But it sounded like that was mostly an issue with 1 wire alternators and the 3 wire did not have that issue. Is that correct? Also, I may have misunderstood some articles, but sounded like if I wanted my "GEN" warning light to be functional, I would need a 3 wire alternator. Is that correct?
Thanks!
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By TNieland - 2 Years Ago
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I bought a Powermaster PowerGEN Alternator it looks like a og generator and I was able to use l the stock braket and belt.
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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I bought a powermaster alternator (not gen style) when I added AC. It had a wiring diagram to use the regulator as a junction point and keep the red generator light which I liked, the original AWG #10 wire could handle everything. I used the Vintage Air mounting system for the compressor and alternator. It mounts the alt infront of the right cylinder head and the compressor in the original generator position. A very clean look. The unit I wanted would not allow me to keep the stock radio and get it out if something was needed. The shop doing the work suggested an Old Air Products Hurricane for in the car. I made my own panel using the Old Air electonic controller and a combo of vents I wanted and they had and gave it to the shop to install, and add the hoses and electrical connections. I lost about 1/2 the glove box. It works great and will freeze you out on low fan.
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By charliemccraney - 2 Years Ago
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The pulley ratio affects all alternators. Having the pulley ratio optimal simply ensures that the alternator can produce the most power for a given rpm. A 1 wire has to achieve a certain rpm before it will start charging but this will usually happen by 1000-1500 engine RPM and the ratio has little to do with that in most practical use cases.
There are options to have a gen light with a one wire alternator. I think Ron Francis makes a voltage sensor that will activate the light if voltage is below a certain threshold. Probably others on the market. A volt meter is another alternative. If you do want to retain the gen light functionality, it probably does make more sense to go with a 3 wire.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 2 Years Ago
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Electrically installing a Ford 3 wire G1 alternator is not a big deal. Some of the existing wires for the generator system can be used for the alternator system. For example, everyone usually wants to keep the red charge indicator functional. In the generator system, the charge light terminates at the A terminal of the generator regulator. By reattaching this wire to the I terminal of the alternator regulator will keep the light functioning as it did before. The field wire on the generator will be the field wire on the alternator and will be reattached to the field terminal of the alternator regulator. You should fabricate a new heavy gauge wire from the "Bat" lug on the alternator to the battery side of the starter relay. Now you'll need to add 2 new wires/connections: 1) #16 wire from the A terminal of the alternator regulator to the battery side of the starter relay. 2) #16 wire from the stator terminal of the alternator to the S terminal of the alternator regulator. The ground wire on the generator will now be grounded to the alternator then grounded to either mounting screw of the alternator regulator and that's basically it. It's probably the best functioning alternator systems there is and will put out very stable power even at idle, it's very easy to rebuild/repair and parts are available. As far as mounting the alternator, every installation is different. If interested, there are many of us on this forum that could post pictures. In my case, the original generator bracketry was used. Good luck......................
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