Author
|
Message
|
Joe-JDC
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
Posts: 734,
Visits: 21.4K
|
|
|
|
DryLakesRacer
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 days ago
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 340.0K
|
Sounds like old hot rodding to me. I’ve found that to be true for all most everything I now do. Unavailability is the big one since the virus or at least the excuse. When needing fasteners I look to many suppliers instead of the one or two I once used. I’m surprised John doesn’t say more. I can’t even remember the last part that didn’t need some messaging before installation.goodluck.
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
|
|
|
55blacktie
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 days ago
Posts: 1.1K,
Visits: 1.6K
|
I would say that what you are experiencing is the norm, rather than the exception, whenever you deviate from the original. Whether you're aiming for originality/building a restomod, it's also likely you'll be spending more than you'll ever recover. With few exceptions, I think the only people who profit from the experience are the parts sellers and professional builders who are being paid for what they do. Just don't go out a rob a bank to support your habit/hobby.
|
|
|
miker
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 days ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 183.3K
|
Sounds pretty much like I remember when I did the T-5 back in 2007 or so. Except I could buy parts. I’d put a later 4 speed in mine, and had a metal “doghouse” to house the Hurst shifter.. That was replaced with a cover plate and a new hole when the T-5 came along. So I’m on my 3rd carpet. In those days you had to shorten the input shaft by 1/8” or so, otherwise it bottomed in the crank. I couldn’t find a shift handle that suited me, and finally welded one up off an old shifter that came with a parts car. I do really like the way it drives with the T-5.
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
charliemccraney
|
|
Group: Moderators
Last Active: 10 hours ago
Posts: 6.1K,
Visits: 436.0K
|
I've come to expect that when consensus says something "bolts right in" that something will need to be trimmed, at best. Why does the shifter need to be installed first? On my '88 Firebird (factory T5) and truck, I install the shifter after the transmission is installed. I install the shifter from the top, through the floor.
Lawrenceville, GA
|
|
|
Deyomatic
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 239,
Visits: 1.3K
|
Every time I get into some new project on an old car it's the same. You know you won't have time until _____ weeks go by so you spend that time buying 15 parts in hopes that one of them fit on the one day that you'll have to be able to get it all together. It's either that or you spend all your time obsessing about how you're going to make something work and then you figure it out and find out that won't work at all and then something really simple (and cheaper than all the stuff you just bought) pops up...but now you need to wait a few more days for that stuff to come in the mail because you can't buy anything in person anymore for old cars.
I swapped the old 390 CFM Holley for a 600 CFM Holley this month. Yes...I said this month. O'Reilly's didn't have the carb base gaskets (no, seriously) so rather than drive around I just ordered them from Amazon. The "2 day" shipping took 4 days, and when they (2 because I'm running a spacer) showed up, a genius in the had warehouse bent one of them to make it fit into the envelope they used, making a crease that essentially ruined that gasket. I went to a speed shop that didn't even have the gasket I wanted. Unreal. Just think what ELSE would have gone wrong had I done what I originally planned - to remove the intake and massage the carburetor ports.
|
|
|
Joe-JDC
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
Posts: 734,
Visits: 21.4K
|
Charlie, the shifter does not have to be installed first. On a Mustang, or any car that came with the T-5 style transmission, you have a crossmember that bolts in and you can remove it to install the transmission. The Thunderbird has a huge X frame right where the tailshaft and shifter housing need to be positioned. The distance between the tunnel and the X frame is ~5 3/4", and the transmission tailshaft and housing without the shifter tower is ~6 3/4" thick. So a hole needs to be cut from the tunnel to allow the transmission to slip past the X frame and for the shifter to be installed from the top after the transmission in in place. The whole assembly would not slip between the X frame and the body of the tunnel without cutting the hole. Kinda like the old saying "You can't put 10 lbs of potatoes in a 5 lb sack." Joe-JDC
JDC
|
|
|
Florida_Phil
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.2K,
Visits: 285.6K
|
If you have a 1955 Tbird with a manual transmutation and O/D, you must remove the engine to remove the transmission. Even with the bolt-in cross member removed, the transmission will not move back far enough for the input shaft to clear the bell housing. The Ford service manual says you can do this by loosening the bell housing which to me seemed worse than pull the motor. It's a very tight fit.
|
|
|
Joe-JDC
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
Posts: 734,
Visits: 21.4K
|
I removed the transmission before removing the engine. I slid the original three speed/OD back after removing the shifter and arms. It would not go back far enough to drop the pilot shaft down, so I removed the bellhousing, and the transmission came out. I was going to install the T-5 in reverse order, but the tailshaft housing is too large to go between the X frame and the tunnel sheetmetal. Even after removing the engine and bolting everything up to re-install the engine, it would not clear the X frame without cutting the hole in the tunnel. Joe-JDC
JDC
|
|
|
55blacktie
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 days ago
Posts: 1.1K,
Visits: 1.6K
|
Yep. When installing/removing a transmission from a 55-57 Tbird, you have two choices: Pull the engine or remove/install the transmission in pieces.
|
|
|