Not much to make one. Short piece of exhaust tubing and 2 washers. The lower could be a fender washer with extra holes or a 3/8” wide strap with a 3/16” hole for the screw. Having the stock pickup PCV tower and having the valve at the carb is always an option. This one I had to notch to miss the dual quad manifold. The welding was oxy/act. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Ted,
Looks like something CASCO could easily manufacture & (likely should) include with their PCV kits (?). Just seems so obvious (plastic/3-D printer?).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Here is the link to the thread that gives more detail on the spacer that allows the rear valley cover hole threaded post to be retained.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost152554.aspx  

  

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

As Ted said drawing air thru the engine and having the PVC valve near the source of vacuum (at the carb) works best. I also used a hose to the air cleaner so air being sucked into the system was clean. Stant has a oil fill cap with 1/2” fitting to make this easier. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

For any PCV valve system, you will want the longest path possible from the air inlet to the air outlet.  The OEM’s for many engines accomplished this by having the inlet air to the crankcase on one valve cover and the outlet or PCV valve end of the equation on the opposite valve cover or the valley cover.

For the Ford Y, I use the 1958-1964 valley covers that already have the necessary hole and baffle at the back of them.  Here’s a pic.
  

If going for a valve cover that was not originally designed for a PCV valve, then you’ll need to position that valve between the rockers and ideally install some kind of baffle that prevents oil from spraying or misting directly on the valve.   For the Y, the valve is best located at the rear.  Here’s a picture of the Blue Thunder valve covers which are made to accommodate PCV valves with baffles on the underside of the cover.
  

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

So Kultulz on my engine I should be able to put a pcv valve in one of the valve covers,  block off the original road draft  and be good to go because the oil filler cap to air cleaner will supply the other half of the system (intake) .Which side valve cover would you recomend , front or rear , or it doesn't matter  thanks Fred

Always wondered it this would work. I see no reason it would not because the can had a oil drain back. Kind of a pain but if you still had the stock 54-60 valley pan it would do the job. I would have added a3/8” pipe 90* to the intake or under the carb and used a V100 PCV valve which works in the direction of the threads and added a hose barb to the side vent breather top.      

It will work (it was CA approved), but not as well as the 1961/ OEM design or the improved 1965/ rocker cover design.

IMO - As mentioned, the actual valve should be at the vacuum source to hopefully allow the fumes to cool and drop back down the intake tube to the crankcase breather assy. The crankcase filter along with the valve would have to be serviced on a regular basis, make sure the drain-back tube remains open (good quality oil), and would have to keep an eye on any oil ingestion.

Block off the road draft tube with a core plug.

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Always wondered it this would work. I see no reason it would not because the can had a oil drain back. Kind of a pain but if you still had the stock 54-60 valley pan it would do the job. I would have added a3/8” pipe 90* to the intake or under the carb and used a V100 PCV valve which works in the direction of the threads and added a hose barb to the side vent breather top. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

This was a typical aftermarket add on, they were required when ownership changed or you couldn't register it. Your draft tube is probably crimped over or have a rubber plug. I think the PCV valve is screwed into the brass fitting.

thanks Ted , I'll look at those posts   Fred