Yep thats the plan, but its deer season tomorrow. 

Get a FACTORY workshop manual for you and your mechanic and just get that rear main seal replaced!

"FREE SAMPLE"

Topping off the trans. first may speed up the fill process (though more lube likely gets wasted).  Just make sure you don’t replace that plug until the overflow has stopped completely. If you fill the OD first, it’s level might run down too low before you can fill the trans. (something the authors of the early BW manual may have overlooked?).
A confusing issue, but to simplify: If you get both ports overflowing simultaneously, and you don’t put the plugs back until the overflow stops….you likely can’t go wrong!

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

The car is in pretty good shape, I feel like the motor has had a fresh rebuild in the last few years but thats an opinion of just looking at it. My biggest challenge is getting the oil leak stopped. Ive never done a rear seal and my ol racing buddy thats a mechanic hasnt done one of these motors either.

Use only API rated SAE 90 gear oil type GL-1 in the OD Napa part # 65-201. With both fill plugs removed I fill the OD (upper) until it overflows, then the lower (standard) that way there is no chance you will overfill the standard section.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

I use Valvoline 20W-50 VR1 Racing Oil part #vv211 or NAPA VAL822347. It’s formulated high in zinc especially for flat tappet engines and comes in a six pack, NAPA usually has it on the shelf. I heard awhile back that Rotella reduced the amount of zinc they were putting in the oil.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

With our older engines and cars and new cars seeming to need less maintenance it’s good to get into a 50’s frame of mind to keep your Ford fun and reliable.
Your glove box inside door decal if your lucky is still readable and shows grades and oil weights. Mine shows 20W and since it’s not readily available I personally use a 10-30 blended for our old car engines. More oil companies are making them available; I’m using Lucas Hot Rod and check my rockers every six months for evidence of oil. You can even run your engine with one off with a cardboard deflector and see if oil is coming out the overflow tubes. These are not SBC’s.
I also take a grease gun to all the fittings every 6 months. When I had the original brakes I adjusted them at the same time. 55’s are good ones, I remember when my dad brought home a new Mountain Green Sunliner for my mom.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Congratulations.  I had a '55 Club Sedan for awhile and loved it.  Do you have any pics?

Thanks a bunch that made that a lot easier to do and not burn something up, these cars sure are tricky I sure am glad you guys are here, I didnt think about the maintenance and repair of the car a whole lot. I figured they would be easy peasy since they were 60 or so years old but I have found out different.