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By Tazx100 - 3 Years Ago
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Hi everyone, I just purchased a 55 ford fairlane town sedan with a 272 and a 3 speed overdrive. The car is in good condition has about 88000 miles on it and I did drive it about 8 miles or so before I bought it. Currently my shop is in deer hunting mode and I dont have the space to get the car on my lift so I am not driving it untill I check the trans and rear end fluid levels, my memory isnt the best anymore and I am pretty sure I spoke with Mr. Eaton yesterday to be able to register and I really appreciate the conversation with him it really helped me to format a game plan for the car. The car is leaking oil from the rear of the engine and I am pretty sure the rear main is toast and I have a gasket kit on the way and I am pretty sure it has a neopreme rear main seal " any tips on this replacement is appreciated". It also has the original oil filter and I would like to upgrade to the spin on filter, If anyone has any advice on where to get the adapter kit would be appreciated I have seen some on the net but thought Id ask you folks. I also would like to confirm that for the trans and overdrive you use 75w90 conventional gear oil and I was planning on using rotella 15w40 with about a half quart of lucas. Ive been a gear head since my youth but it has been a scruby
experience and this is my first experience with an older ford. Thanks for reading this long post and I am looking forward to chatting with everyone. Rickey
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By Dobie - 3 Years Ago
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Welcome to the forum! The rear main seal can actually be replaced with the engine in the car assuming the seal surface on the crank is good. You'll need to get the drag link out of the way so you can drop the pan, then unbolt the main bearing caps so you can drop the crank down far enough to access the seal. I have done this myself, not fun but better than pulling the engine just for a seal. For the spin on filter adapter, look for an original Ford aluminum adapter, the aftermarket ones are rather flimsy (but still useable if you're careful). Your trans wants straight mineral oil. Do not use anything marked "hypoid", "transaxle", or "universal" as they contain additives that will eventually destroy the brass synchros. Tractor Supply carries the correct oil under the brand name Traveler Ford Tractor Transmission Oil. NAPA is also a good source but they may have to order it. Your trans has 2 filler plugs, one for the main box and the other is for the OD section. When filling/refilling fill the main box 1st, then top up the OD. Since you don't know what's in there now it would be wise to drain it and refill it with the right stuff.
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By charliemccraney - 3 Years Ago
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The Ford Adapter will be steel. The aluminum are aftermarket and haven't been available for a while. The aluminum one is probably best but not necessarily worth holding out for, if they are even available again.
The most obvious problem with some of the aftermarket steel adapters is that they have "TOP" stamped in the wrong place. The holes or slot goes to the top so put the holes to the top and ignore "TOP" on the adapter if it does not place the holes at the top.
Here's a guide for rear main installation:
https://www.eatonbalancing.com/2008/09/10/neoprene-rear-seal-installation-for-the-y-and-others/
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By Lou - 3 Years Ago
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Reguarding the rear main leaking.....If there is oil on the left side of the engine it is not the rear main leaking , it is the road draft breather.. I have owned 7 , 55/56 ford cars some with well over a 100,000 miles on them and althought I was told that some of them had a leaking rear main non leaked more than a haft a quart of oil in a 1000 miles after I took the road draft breather off and cleaned it.
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By Daniel Jessup - 3 Years Ago
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If my blog can be a help to you then please visit HotRodReverend.com/blog and sift through countless entries that include videos, pictures, and diagrams. It has become a huge repository. I have a 55 Ford Club Sedan with the 3 speed and overdrive.
dan
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By DryLakesRacer - 3 Years Ago
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Welcome. Your engine maybe too worn out but a PCV system brought my rear main seal leak to negligible. My side breather never even dripped. I would get a Ford factory manual too they really help. With the crank in the correct position the pan comes off going forward on the full sized cars I’ve done mines few times. Like said an original filter adapter works the best. Good luck. Have fun with your Ford.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 3 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (11/9/2021)
The Ford Adapter will be steel. The aluminum are aftermarket and haven't been available for a while. The aluminum one is probably best but not necessarily worth holding out for, if they are even available again.
The most obvious problem with some of the aftermarket steel adapters is that they have "TOP" stamped in the wrong place. The holes or slot goes to the top so put the holes to the top and ignore "TOP" on the adapter if it does not place the holes at the top.
Even the NOS steel adapters may not seal well without prior modification. I don’t have the literature (Walt Knuckels?) at hand for that procedure, but likely someone out there could forward a link (?). I also found the extra thick Prestige gasket helpful.
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By Tazx100 - 3 Years Ago
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Thanks everyone I really appreciate the support and advice. My curiosity got the best of me and I got the car on the lift and the ol car is in pretty good shape from a rust standpoint not much at all. I didnt take the dust cover off so I could see the rear of the engine so my mechanic friend could see whats going on without me disturbing anything, but its been leaking a while from what I could tell, and the oil is mainly in the center of the car. I plan on going real slow with the leak issue and I am not going to do anything till after deer season. I did find the fills for the trans and od I found the drain for the trans but I couldnt find a drain for the od. I didnt take anything off and I am a blind squirell looking for a nut in the tree when it comes to this car but I really like the ol car and I am looking forward to get to know it. I am getting a service manual and I believe there is a manual for the motor also. Thanks again I really appreciate your advice. I will also be visiting your site Daniel J.
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By oldcarmark - 3 Years Ago
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Rotella-T 15W40 does not require additional Zinc added to it. Has the recommended amount from the manufacturer.
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By Dobie - 3 Years Ago
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Tazx100 (11/9/2021)
Thanks everyone I really appreciate the support and advice. My curiosity got the best of me and I got the car on the lift and the ol car is in pretty good shape from a rust standpoint not much at all. I didnt take the dust cover off so I could see the rear of the engine so my mechanic friend could see whats going on without me disturbing anything, but its been leaking a while from what I could tell, and the oil is mainly in the center of the car. I plan on going real slow with the leak issue and I am not going to do anything till after deer season. I did find the fills for the trans and od I found the drain for the trans but I couldnt find a drain for the od. I didnt take anything off and I am a blind squirell looking for a nut in the tree when it comes to this car but I really like the ol car and I am looking forward to get to know it. I am getting a service manual and I believe there is a manual for the motor also. Thanks again I really appreciate your advice. I will also be visiting your site Daniel J.
There is no separate drain for the OD since there's an internal passage between the OD and the main box. When you drain the main box you also drain the OD. You need to top up the OD after filling the main box because the OD is higher up and can run dry if not topped up. This is why the OD has its own fill plug.
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By Tazx100 - 3 Years Ago
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Thanks a bunch that made that a lot easier to do and not burn something up, these cars sure are tricky I sure am glad you guys are here, I didnt think about the maintenance and repair of the car a whole lot. I figured they would be easy peasy since they were 60 or so years old but I have found out different.
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By Deyomatic - 3 Years Ago
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Congratulations. I had a '55 Club Sedan for awhile and loved it. Do you have any pics?
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By DryLakesRacer - 3 Years Ago
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With our older engines and cars and new cars seeming to need less maintenance it’s good to get into a 50’s frame of mind to keep your Ford fun and reliable.
Your glove box inside door decal if your lucky is still readable and shows grades and oil weights. Mine shows 20W and since it’s not readily available I personally use a 10-30 blended for our old car engines. More oil companies are making them available; I’m using Lucas Hot Rod and check my rockers every six months for evidence of oil. You can even run your engine with one off with a cardboard deflector and see if oil is coming out the overflow tubes. These are not SBC’s.
I also take a grease gun to all the fittings every 6 months. When I had the original brakes I adjusted them at the same time. 55’s are good ones, I remember when my dad brought home a new Mountain Green Sunliner for my mom.
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By 312YBlock - 3 Years Ago
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I use Valvoline 20W-50 VR1 Racing Oil part #vv211 or NAPA VAL822347. It’s formulated high in zinc especially for flat tappet engines and comes in a six pack, NAPA usually has it on the shelf. I heard awhile back that Rotella reduced the amount of zinc they were putting in the oil.
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By 312YBlock - 3 Years Ago
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Use only API rated SAE 90 gear oil type GL-1 in the OD Napa part # 65-201. With both fill plugs removed I fill the OD (upper) until it overflows, then the lower (standard) that way there is no chance you will overfill the standard section.
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By Tazx100 - 3 Years Ago
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By Tazx100 - 3 Years Ago
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The car is in pretty good shape, I feel like the motor has had a fresh rebuild in the last few years but thats an opinion of just looking at it. My biggest challenge is getting the oil leak stopped. Ive never done a rear seal and my ol racing buddy thats a mechanic hasnt done one of these motors either.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 3 Years Ago
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Topping off the trans. first may speed up the fill process (though more lube likely gets wasted). Just make sure you don’t replace that plug until the overflow has stopped completely. If you fill the OD first, it’s level might run down too low before you can fill the trans. (something the authors of the early BW manual may have overlooked?).
A confusing issue, but to simplify: If you get both ports overflowing simultaneously, and you don’t put the plugs back until the overflow stops….you likely can’t go wrong!
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By Lord Gaga - 3 Years Ago
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Get a FACTORY workshop manual for you and your mechanic and just get that rear main seal replaced!
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By Tazx100 - 3 Years Ago
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Yep thats the plan, but its deer season tomorrow.
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