I have adjusted my drum brakes to the nth degree, but the car still pulls or skids the tires in a hap-hazzard way if you have to brake suddenly.  Sometimes it will move over a half lane, and that is not safe when trying to keep up with traffic at 65-70 mph.  I have new Wilwood disc brake conversion kit for front brakes, and just want to know what master cylinder you have had good luck with on your conversions?  I really don't want a booster for power brakes, but would like to keep them manual for now.  I have converted older Mustangs for manual disc brakes and they worked fine, even my Mach I race car had manual disc brakes.  They worked fine with a line-lock and stopped the car easily at 10.9s and 123mph.  Joe-JDC 

JDC

Joe, I used the Granada master cylinder and proportioning valve. I had to change the length of the rod from the brake lever to the master cylinder. I can't remember if I lengthened or shortened it. I don't see a need for a booster either, mine stops just fine without one.

  Vic Correnti

I have converted a bunch of old Fords to front disk brakes. My current TBird has a complete Casco kit.  Everything required came together, so I didn't have to piece out the parts. In the past, I have successfully used 1967-69 Mustang master cylinders both manual and disk.  So far, I have not installed power brakes in any of my cars. They all stopped as desired.  The Mustang master cylinder has the brake line connections on the driver's side.  This can cause clearance issues in some cars. My 1957 Ford Custom did not have this problem.  My 1955 Tbird did.  You can use banjo fittings to get around this issue.  You will need a proportioning valve. I bought mine from Summit.  Jegs has them too. Some people have reported problems with the stock brake master cylinder lever.   Be sure to install the button on the end of the rod.   My cars all worked fine without shortening or lengthening the rod.  Check yours and see.  Converting to front disk brakes is one of the best upgrades you can do to these cars. Driving in today's traffic with 65 year old drum brakes is scary and dangerous.

Driving anything is scary in "today's traffic", Driver Education as well as Driver Testing are mostly just distant memories in the minds of old cranks.

Pulling to one side on hard braking isn't something that can be remedied by shoe adjustment, that indicates a serious defect not inherent to drum brake systems but likely defective brake hose or wheel cylinders, brake backing plate wear, etc. I can certainly understand why disc brakes are preferred, but I would not want to drive a Tbird in heavy traffic, isn't worth the risk regardless of brake type. Too many nutbars out and out about.

Wilwood has 2, a larger oval which I use, and a smaller one. I too prefer not to have a booster. I used their prop valve and a residual valve on their recommendation. They also said an adjustable Mustang pedal rod was easy to get the length correct. I bought everything from Summit because it was a good price and I live fairly close to Wilwood. Prestige Thunderbird in Santa Fe Springs Ca. sells an extended heat shield which I bought and applied an aluminum heat insulator and deflector tape from Home Depot. I also made a side heat deflector for the prop valve. If you look closely at the photo you can see both. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I have adjusted my drum brakes to the nth degree, but the car still pulls or skids the tires in a hap-hazzard way if you have to brake suddenly.  Sometimes it will move over a half lane, and that is not safe when trying to keep up with traffic at 65-70 mph.  I have new Wilwood disc brake conversion kit for front brakes

Exactly how does the car pull? Does it seem like rear brake lockup and the rear wants to come around?
Are the front discs overly aggressive causing the rear to come around or dart? Or does the car pull to one side with a hard application?

What WILDWOOD KIT did you buy (PN) and what is on there now for a MC?

____________________________

It was the drum brakes that pulled indiscriminately or locked up, both in reverse and going forward.  Just backing the T-bird out of the garage the front tires would lock up.  Got embarrassing to move the car or go for a slow drive.  Otherwise the rear brakes never locked up, and the emergency brakes hold just fine.    I just didn't want to buy the wrong master cylinder for this Wilwood conversion kit.  Some folks claim they run the stock master cylinder with no issues, but I am not so sure that is a good idea.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Wilwood and Dave (Drop 'em, Stop 'em) recommended 15/16ths master for non-power brakes. OEM master is 1-inch. Not having sufficient clearance for Wilwood's proportioning valve on battery side, I mounted it on the opposite side of the master on my 55 Tbird (no need to relocate battery).  Plenty of room (Sanderson headers might help, and cooler/w ceramic coating).

I believe the MC bore diameter depends on the pedal ratio. 2 companies I contacted prior to installing disc front brakes wanted it before suggesting any parts or kits. Since I had changed my complete rear end they also wanted the diameter of the wheel cylinders. Because mine came from a power brake vehicle I also needed to reduce their size.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Joe,
Have you ruled out ‘contaminated linings’ from a wheel cylinder or axle seal leak? Are your drums reasonably fresh/turned to spec. & shoes properly radius ground? New/identical cylinders & hose?
I once made the mistake of installing dissimilar brake parts piecemeal.  No amount of adjustment could ever rectify.




6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA