t was the drum brakes that pulled indiscriminately or locked up, both in reverse and going forward.  Just backing the T-bird out of the garage the front tires would lock up.  Got embarrassing to move the car or go for a slow drive.  Otherwise the rear brakes never locked up, and the emergency brakes hold just fine.    I just didn't want to buy the wrong master cylinder for this Wilwood conversion kit.  Some folks claim they run the stock master cylinder with no issues, but I am not so sure that is a good idea.  Joe-JDC     

We have to know exactly how the car is built now.

What MC are you presently using and do you have any valving at all (metering - proportioning - residual)? OEM drum brakes on the rear axle?

What is the PN of the WILDWOOD KIT you mounted on the front axle?

Whoever said that they run a drum/drum single reservoir MC on a disc/drum setup ain't too smart (unless it is an early dual outlet DISC/DRUM single reservoir).

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I have a degree in Automotive, and a degree in Aircraft Maintenance, and taught Automotive at Central Texas College, Europe campus, retired Aircraft Master Instructor from USAF, so not a novice about brakes and suspension alignment issues, rebuilding transmissions, rear differentials, engines, etc.  I just wanted to know what you folks had used that actually worked before removing my master cylinder and wasting time and money.  This car has the alternator conversion, AC added, three speed OD.  Original rear end, brakes.  I went through the front brakes, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, small parts, drums, and refurbished everything, adjusting until stopping wheel, backing off, etc., according to standard practice, and the brakes still will grab unevenly.  Shoes arc'ed, same width, and same material matrix.  Wheel bearings packed/adjusted.   The front steering is tight, new shocks, radial whitewall tires, tire pressures equal.  Manual steering with stock steering wheel.   It drives nicely under most circumstances, and it gets thumbs up.  I have the 345 Y ready to install with 5 speed Tremec, and I prefer to have the brakes rock solid before doubling the horse power.

Wilwood 140-12922 brake conversion kit for '55 Thunderbird.
Thanks for your replies and help.
  Joe-JDC
 

JDC

It sounds like you have a seal leaking grease onto the brake shoe. I'm speaking from experence.

Well, you won't answer any questions but let me know this. Are you using the OEM single reservoir drum/drum MC on this conversion?

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I think Joe knows just what he's doing, and I think his car is still stock, looking for pointers before changing parts, I do this sometimes so I don't have to reinvent the wheel, I'm removing a Ford O and replacing it with a Cruise O in a 1957 Fairlane, I got a lot of talk about things I did not ask, and only one good answer. As for Joes car I have the most luck by changing the whole system from a later car, My sons car is a 1957 Fairlane 500 it's getting front Disc, master and rear drums from a 1973 Galaxy (doing it now).

You could have different material  on each side for the brake shoes.  Has a wheel cylinder blow out while traveling in Oregon at a Tbird show.  Got new shoes for the blow out side and replaced  the cylinder from one of the other guys at the show.  After that the car pulled terribly - different material side  to side.  Next day went out a bought a omlet set of shows for both fronts and made the change at the motel.  Fine after that.

I would contact Wilwood for their recommendation - after all it's their brakes and they should give you the proper info for there system.  Then no guessing.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I think Joe knows just what he's doing, and I think his car is still stock, looking for pointers before changing parts ...

I am not questioning his knowledge and/or abilities, I am curious as to why the car jumps lanes.

He mentioned that he has heard that others have used the original MC with good results. All I want to know is how and why someone would make such a statement. Whatever the OP wants to use on his street driven car is his business.

Just the addition of a dual reservoir disc/drum MC may or may not fully cure whatever the problem(s) is.

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It is my thoughts are a dual master with an adjustable proportioning valve is the general fix for vehicles which were not specifically built with a disc/drum or disc/disc system. Factory units may have the valve but are usually not adjustable from what I have seen. This is why taking a complete system from a single donor car may work so well. I followed the instructions for the Wilwood system of adjusting the prop valve and everything worked as I believed designed. I’ve had it on for a year and needed 2 panic stops. Not a high speeds but it worked perfect both times and accidents were avoided. 


56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

What I have read from the text is that the original MC was used with the front disc upgrade.

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Not yet.  I asked for suggestions for what master cylinder folks have used successfully that have done the conversion.  I have not changed the master cylinder yet, but will before bleeding the brakes and first test drive.  I will use a proportioning valve, double flare the tubing, etc..  I have done the rear disc brake conversion on my Fox Mustang GT using a proportioning valve.  Joe-JDC

JDC