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KULTULZ
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Last Active: 7 days ago
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Wilwood tech people and the sales dept. are worthless. I'll NEVER buy another one of their products after wasting more that a month trying to get an out of true rotor issue resolved!
Well, I am at a disadvantage as I never had the money to go with high dollar store bought. My cars were more or less JUNKYARD DOGS. And I understand going that way if one is building a show car or resto-mod. But there is not much FOMOCO didn't offer to do the same thing. The trick was knowing what car to pull it off of.
And now much of the stuff is off-shore adding to the problem(s).
I recently was trying to cipher why the RPV was dropped (working on ABS SYSTEMS) and I had one well known brake kit company TECH tell me the weight of the fluid (gravity) keeps the wheel cylinder cups from cocking after brake release.
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Lord Gaga
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[quote] KULTULZ (11/11/2021)
You would think a company as large and successful as WILDWOOD would have a knowledgeable TECH to advise as to how and why.
Wilwood tech people and the sales dept. are worthless. I'll NEVER buy another one of their products after wasting more that a month trying to get an out of true rotor issue resolved!
"FREE SAMPLE"
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KULTULZ
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If Wilwood told you this, I'm sorry that I recommended you call them.
Not your fault. You would think a company as large and successful as WILDWOOD would have a knowledgeable TECH to advise as to how and why. And it is not only WILDWOOD.
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KULTULZ
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Front discs and rear drums require a residual pressure valve ...
Front disc does not require a RPV unless the MC is located under the caliper plane and that is a 2# to prevent fluid drain-back (gravity) to the MC.
A 10# residual valve in the disc circuit will cause pad drag.
That is what caused the front brakes to drag when backed out of the garage,
If you notice, these so-called brake kit suppliers all have the same song and dance and conflict with one another with tech advice. Some are outright dangerous.
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paul2748
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If Wilwood told you this, I'm sorry that I recommended you call them. Front discs and rear drums require a residual pressure valve, but at different pressures for the front vs the rear. And most likely a proportioning valve for the rear.
In a factory disc/drum setup, they usually use combination valve which does both functions.
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312 Forever Ford Midland Park, NJ
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KULTULZ
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Wilwood says to use the round stock master cylinder and remove the residual pressure valve. That prevents the brakes from holding pressure. So, I may go that route first. They do not recommend a proportioning valve be installed. Joe-JDC
You need to stay away from WILDWOOD TECH if you were told this.
With all of your credentials you must have theory/tech literature on how a disc/drum brake system is designed, plumbed and operates.
You need a correct style dualing MC, plumbed with correct valving for the system, period.
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Joe-JDC
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Wilwood says to use the round stock master cylinder and remove the residual pressure valve. That prevents the brakes from holding pressure. So, I may go that route first. They do not recommend a proportioning valve be installed. Joe-JDC
JDC
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Joe-JDC
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Not yet. I asked for suggestions for what master cylinder folks have used successfully that have done the conversion. I have not changed the master cylinder yet, but will before bleeding the brakes and first test drive. I will use a proportioning valve, double flare the tubing, etc.. I have done the rear disc brake conversion on my Fox Mustang GT using a proportioning valve. Joe-JDC
JDC
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KULTULZ
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What I have read from the text is that the original MC was used with the front disc upgrade.
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DryLakesRacer
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It is my thoughts are a dual master with an adjustable proportioning valve is the general fix for vehicles which were not specifically built with a disc/drum or disc/disc system. Factory units may have the valve but are usually not adjustable from what I have seen. This is why taking a complete system from a single donor car may work so well. I followed the instructions for the Wilwood system of adjusting the prop valve and everything worked as I believed designed. I’ve had it on for a year and needed 2 panic stops. Not a high speeds but it worked perfect both times and accidents were avoided. With what I’m reading the entire system to the rear drakes should be carefully looked at, specifically the lines and wheel cylinders. I’m not sure on the shoe issue. I’m sure Joe has done all this and I’m just thinking out loud. When your not happy with brake it’s imperative that the problem and solution be found.
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
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