Long story on the transmission.  About 8 years ago I was thinking about  running a 427 SOHC with a C4.  You can run the same stock Tbird motor mounts on the FE as the y-block.  Everything fit in pretty well, but putting in headers with the stock steering was going to be difficult. 
   This was my dads car.  He bought it from his brother in 1957, and drove it until 1966.  It has sat since then.  I have never been in the car under power, born in 1965.
It was a rust bucket, and not worth restoring.  I bought him a nice 1955 Bird about 10years ago.  He drove it for about 3 years, then started his fight with dementia.  I lost him about 1 1/2 years ago.
  Before he got too bad, he decided he wanted to restore it and give it to my daughter.  We changed plans, and decided to tone it down,  He got to see the finished car, minus the drive train before he passed.  This motor is just a place holder, to mock things up and get things moving.  A mummert headed stroker is in the works. Very delayed due to COVID.
The 4r70w is derived from the C4.  The C4 fit with a ton of extra space.  Not to sure if I will have to massage the trans tunnel for the 4r70w, it is a good bit beefier than the C4.  I am getting a Bendtsen Speed Gems adaptor.  The electronics will be controlled with a Baumann controller.  

Paul

What adapter are you using for 4R70W transmission? Is there sufficient room in transmission tunnel? Electronics/computer?

I might be comparing apples and oranges, but my brother-in-law's 5.0 Mustang's cam has 220 degrees duration @ .050/w 110 LSA. His power brakes are marginal at low rpm, specifically when backing out of his driveway. The same came/w 112 LSA probably would have been a better choice as far as vacuum is concerned. Although my cam has a 110 LSA, I don't have power brakes. 

If you're still leaning towards the Howard's cam, the part number for the same cam/w 112 LSA is 292002-12. $203.99 at Summit. 

When I chose this cam, I called Isky and they told me the 301333 cam would work with an automatic transmission.  It works great in my car with a manual trans. At this time I am running a Holley 1848-1 465 on a stock iron B intake.  My engine has excellent throttle response and mid range torque. My vacuum at idle is about 12-13 pounds. I don't rev my engine over 5,000 rpm, so I can't comment on high rpm performance.  Choosing a cam is tricky business. I have had street cars with radical cams before. They can grow old quickly.  Some days I feel like I want a race car and other times I wish things were a little smoother.  Better to get it right the first time.  You don't want to change the cam in an early TBird.

A little over stock 292 with a CruiseOmatic an 8.8 with 2.74 is perfect in my 56 Victoria and it’s heavier. I wouldn’t change anything. Any 3 speed OD or not is a good thing and makes the old FordO cars a pleasure to drive. I did drive it with the 3.31’s for a few months after the trans swap but knew I was going to change it.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Ogasman, I have a C4/w Dynamic Racing Transmission's wide-ratio gear set/w 2.90 1st and 1.60 2nd. I have 2.72 gears in rear. If I had overdrive, I would have left the stock 3.31 gears. your setup will be fine/w 220 @ .050 duration, but I would prefer 3.55/w OD. My tires are 215/70r15 that are 26.9" diameter. I'm looking at approximately 2200 rpm @ 65 mph. Your cruise rpm should be within cam range; in my case, the latter is 1800-5000 rpm. My knowledge of your transmission is limited, but it probably has a lock-up torque converter, like the AOD. You probably want to stick with stock converter/stock stall speed. I have a Hughes converter/w advertised stall speed of 2000 rpm, but their ratings are based on big-block applications. Actual stall speed behind a Y-block is probably 1600-1800 rpm. With my gears, a higher stall speed could result in slippage if cruise rpm lower than stall speed. For comparison purposes, cruise rpm for Fordomatic and 3.31 gears is 2800-3000 rpm. 2200 is  good. 

There are RPM calculators online, like Strange. You can play with gear ratios, tire size, etc. to find desired combination.

I was originally going with a c4 tranny so I put a 3.10 gear in the rear.  The 4r70w has a much lower 1st and 2nd than the c4.  Both have a 1 to 1 third, and the 4r70 has a .70 overdrive.  The bird has a good bit bigger set of rear tires, so I will have to see what it drives like.  May have to put in more gear, I also have a 3.89 gear set.
Will probably go with a dual reservoir power master cylinder.  I have the wilwood 11 inch disc kit up front, and big 11 rear drums.
I don't mind some lope in the cam, put I don't want it to be an undrivable race car with the automatic.

Paul

Phil, the 301333 is "bumpy?" Even with 228 degrees duration @ .050, I would have thought that the 112 LSA would smooth things out a bit. The guy/w the E-code also had a cam with 228 duration @ .050 before rebuild. I don't recall the LSA, He said he liked the lope, but thought it was too much cam. He wanted the sound but not the manners. I think it's common for people to over-cam street cars. Bigger is not always better. 

Correction! The Clay Smith cam that I mentioned earlier is going into an E-code, not an F.

If your car has/will have power brakes, you'll probably want a wider (112) LSA. I would also keep duration @ .050 at/below 220 degrees. The OEM cam, I believe, had 197 degrees @ .050/w 113 LSA.