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Hormonic Balancer-Going on really hard

Posted By Jack Groat 4 Years Ago
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DryLakesRacer
Posted 4 Years Ago
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My experience, tho limited in running time, always “exchanged” metal when they were not a tight fit on both surfaces. The end where mine butted up to the crank and the sliding surface fit.
By run time I mean these were on racing engines not street driven and saw rpm in the 5500 to 6000 range.
On our current race 422” engine where the damper is tight fit and needs a breaker bar to press on, there has never been any exchanged metal and it sees 7200 at the end of the straights..

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
55charliebird
Posted 4 Years Ago
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I had my damper rebuilt by Winslow mfg.  The tools from CASCO did the trick, taking it off and re-installing it.  Especially with the engine still in the car.
Ted
Posted 4 Years Ago
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DANIEL TINDER (11/4/2020)
P.S. Wondering the consequences of not enough installation interference, even if the dampener is well bolted down? (Ted?)

As long as the damper ring and rubber are doing their job, a damper with no or very minimal interference fit will not be a problem for awhile assuming the damper bolt is tight.  As the damper becomes aged with either the ring becoming loose and/or the rubber getting hard and having less flexibility, then the damper will have an increased tendency to move at the crankshaft snout regardless of how tight the damper bolt is.  The higher the compression ratio, the more the issue with this.
 
If the damper is of inadequate size or weight for the engine such as in the case of a modified engine using a stock oem style damper, then the lack of an interference fit will see some movement between the damper and the snout regardless of damper condition.  This will eventually create wear at the crankshaft key that holds it in place.  As the key becomes worn, so does the slot in the crankshaft snout that retains the key.  As James mentions, there may be some galling or metal transfer taking place with any unwanted movement between the crankshaft snout and the damper.
 
The higher the horsepower output, the more sensitive the engine is to needing a damper that is ‘tuned’ to the needs of the engine.  An interference fit insures that the damper does its job in counteracting those harmonics being created by the crankshaft.


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


FORD DEARBORN
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Greetings to all:  This very informative thread reminds me of the need to finally do something about my 60 year old damper. Other than the rock hard selastome material, it's in good shape so I would prefer to have it rebuilt.  I may be wrong but I thought Ted has mentioned Damper Doctor on occasion. I have found others but would like to send it off to a very good and reliable place for this service. The enine a 312 built to specs of 1957. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks, JEFF..............     BTW, I purchased threaded rod, cut a section long enough to thread into the crankshaft until it reaches the bottom of the hole, place a heavy washer against the damper and use a well lubed nut to install the damper on the snout.  Thais method has always worked well for me and saves the threads in the crank. 


64F100 57FAIRLANE500
Tedster
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Seems to me at one time I remember hearing some rumbles about there being some sort of falling out at Damper Doctors, and some of the flock forming Damper Dudes. Anyway those are the two best known firms that do this kind of thing.

It's interesting (to me at least) to note that the crankshaft can flex or twist up to +/- 2° back and forth, the balancer weight tends to lead and lag and absorb this. The situation to be avoided is what's known as resonance, there is a certain specific RPM where this tends to occur. The engineers try to design around this point and ensure this happens somewhere outside "normal" driving conditions. But this is where the "harmonic" part too comes in. There are also resonance points at multiples of that RPM. A crankshaft can crack, or even break, due to a failed balancer. I would have to think it would also beat the hell out of the mains bearings, and probably main seal oil leaks.
55blacktie
Posted 4 Years Ago
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I'm sending mine to Damper Dudes.
FORD DEARBORN
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OK, just got off the phone with Damper Dude and they seem very eager to rebuild my damper.  Won't be sent off until salt hits the streets in Michigan but I'll report the results when able.  To me, anyways, this is really interesting stuff and a little bit over my head. It always amazed me how aircraft engines employed tuned movable weights on the crankshaft to dampen propeller harmonics and other resonant frequencies.  I knew there was a certain amount of crankshaft twist but never realized it is possible for a damper to "move" on the snout. Thanks to all for the information....................


64F100 57FAIRLANE500
DryLakesRacer
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Damper Dudes did mine and since I’m in Ca. I got it back in 2 days. The timing marks were very feint so I carefully file tdc back in and marked with white paint. They called and told me they were leaving it as is. Additional lines were made by me at 12 and 32 and also marked with white. I can figure anything from those 2.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
55blacktie
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Did Damper Dudes offer the option of making the timing marks more visible?
paul2748
Posted 4 Years Ago
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The gripe I have with damper doctor , on a TBird damper, is that they didn't make the marks more visible, even when I specifically asked them to.  Otherwise, it seems to be ok


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ



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