I bought the spin-on oil filter adapter.  No where in the directions does it tell what is the proper oil filter part number to use. 

I assume it is the same as the old Ford spin on filter that I have purchased in the past dozens if not hundreds of times.  Vaguely, I remember Fram PH-8???  I went to O'Reillys and their chart does not go back to my old '59 Ford or my old Maverick or Econoline.  I have spent an hour on the internet trying to get the same info with no success.

One more question.  I have a '56 2 dr and I don't see a lot of room for the filter.  Wasn't there a stubby version of the same filter for use in tight places?

Thanks guys, I know I'll get some good answers..

I think the bad rep on Fram oil filters is the cheap insides.  There are videos on Youtube so I will not bore you with the details.  I am sure that the Fram filters meet the minimum requirements but once you see them taken apart, you can see why they may be cheaper.  I used to buy Champ or Champion filters.  They had the patent on the Sludge lock valve that allowed you not to lose oil pressure if the filter get's plugged.  Champions used to be reasonably priced but they are now at the upper end of the cost spectrum.

As far as sufficient room  for the full size PH8A type filters, the Shop Manual tells You to turn steering wheel to full right and this gives lots of room re steering Linkage.

  

I left Fram years ago before the internet because the race engine builders I knew told me there were better ones out there for slightly more. After the internet and especially You Tube where brand new ones were cut open to see what was actually inside, ie: filter media, glue, washers, spacers, valves, etc. it showed the poor products and craftsmenship of a Fram. Granted they had more than one model to choose from. Purolater, Wix, and NAPA always seemed at the top especially when the small items of the filter were pointed out and not just the media.
I too now cut everyone open with a filter cutter my son bought for his dirt car engines looking for debris. For my street I have found very little to nothing metallic which is fine. He uses Wix Racing filters we buy by the case off Amazon. I do miss the ease of the gripping surface of the Fram but won't go back.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Pg. 3 (They didn't waste any time in those days) of the Operator's Manual for my Truck is titled "The Value of Regular Maintenance"; after the initial pleasantries identifying me as someone who "understands value", due to my selection of a Ford, it outlines 11 of the Owner's Responsibilities, and the first 3 are

1. Check Oil Level Frequently
2. Use the Right Engine Oil
3. Use The Right Oil Filter

And sez:

"The engine oil filter is EVEN MORE IMPORTANT in preserving the internal condition of your engine."

That's almost certainly true, or at least the engineers would be in a better position to know. I'll take their word for it. Can't see any particular reason to save $.50 and use anything but the FL-1 or the WIX equivalent.

It isn't necessarily the filtering and obssessing over whether its 0.2 or 0.3 microns between brands, that we should be concerned with. One thing to note is how they are constructed, the actual location (and materials) of the bypass valve. Less expensive filters will allow dirty oil to drain back into the sump and circulate. Store replacement filters in their original box and also inspect the insides of the filter with a strong light for any manufacturing debris or defects prior to installation.