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By Jack Groat - 4 Years Ago
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I bought the spin-on oil filter adapter. No where in the directions does it tell what is the proper oil filter part number to use.
I assume it is the same as the old Ford spin on filter that I have purchased in the past dozens if not hundreds of times. Vaguely, I remember Fram PH-8??? I went to O'Reillys and their chart does not go back to my old '59 Ford or my old Maverick or Econoline. I have spent an hour on the internet trying to get the same info with no success.
One more question. I have a '56 2 dr and I don't see a lot of room for the filter. Wasn't there a stubby version of the same filter for use in tight places?
Thanks guys, I know I'll get some good answers..
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By darrell - 4 Years Ago
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ph8a was the fram number.same as all fords for years.there was a short one its the same as the one chrysler used for years on 318 and just about everthing
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By Daniel Jessup - 4 Years Ago
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Use an FL1-A from Motorcraft... nice fit on my 55 sedan. No need for a stubby, there is plenty of room in a 55/56.
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By Genuinerod - 4 Years Ago
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Ford FL 200 is the stubby version.
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By paul2748 - 4 Years Ago
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WIX - 51515,. NAPA 1515 (supposed to be a WIX
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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Purolator 30001
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By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
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I’ve been using Wix 51515. I like them because they are black. NAPA gold has one too. Same company makes them both. Check it often as there are writeups on the replacements leaking. As I remember the oval went on the top to keep the filter full. As a side note when I start an oil change I stab an ice pick at the bottom corner then drain the oil from the pan. By the time I’m ready for the filter it’s drained and doesn’t make a mess on the block.
My O’Reilys stocks them. We also run them on my sons dirt car and my LSR roadster.
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By MoonShadow - 4 Years Ago
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WIX filters are some of the best on the market. They filter to smaller particles than almost all the others. Back in the 50's my dad wouldn't put anything but WIX on his diesel trucks.
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By Lord Gaga - 4 Years Ago
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DON'T use a Fram!
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By BamaBob - 4 Years Ago
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GaGa,
Do you have a personal reason why not to use Fram oil filters? Some time back, Consumer Reports rated the Fram as one of the best filters and I have been using them, mainly because of this report, and also because Walmart always has them at a good price. If they are not good for my engines, I would surely like to know!
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By Lord Gaga - 4 Years Ago
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Bob, I read a very intensive test of every oil filter that exists a while back and Fram emerged as one of the worst in terms of filtration. I was surprised to learn that there only a small number of filter manufacturers. https://www.b4usa.com/champion-laboratories-inc/
As I recall Purolator came across as one of the best.
(Things may have changed since I read the article, it seems that there is a lot of supplier swapping in the industry)
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By 2721955meteor - 4 Years Ago
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i do not agree with the negative word re fram. i cut open every filter i change,present frame filters are fine as are most other name brand filters. when converting to spin on remember to trim the socket so you get max grip on a short nut that must be removed to inst adaptor. the concern for room is un founded.spin ons take less space than oem can.
the tin plat for conversion are to thin,i drill a couple of holes across from slotted oil feed to even the clapping of gasket also glue the gasket so it stays in place. in the end made my own adapter plat from alum. tubing. lots of lathe time but works great
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By cokefirst - 4 Years Ago
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I think the bad rep on Fram oil filters is the cheap insides. There are videos on Youtube so I will not bore you with the details. I am sure that the Fram filters meet the minimum requirements but once you see them taken apart, you can see why they may be cheaper. I used to buy Champ or Champion filters. They had the patent on the Sludge lock valve that allowed you not to lose oil pressure if the filter get's plugged. Champions used to be reasonably priced but they are now at the upper end of the cost spectrum.
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By oldcarmark - 4 Years Ago
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As far as sufficient room for the full size PH8A type filters, the Shop Manual tells You to turn steering wheel to full right and this gives lots of room re steering Linkage.
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By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
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I left Fram years ago before the internet because the race engine builders I knew told me there were better ones out there for slightly more. After the internet and especially You Tube where brand new ones were cut open to see what was actually inside, ie: filter media, glue, washers, spacers, valves, etc. it showed the poor products and craftsmenship of a Fram. Granted they had more than one model to choose from. Purolater, Wix, and NAPA always seemed at the top especially when the small items of the filter were pointed out and not just the media.
I too now cut everyone open with a filter cutter my son bought for his dirt car engines looking for debris. For my street I have found very little to nothing metallic which is fine. He uses Wix Racing filters we buy by the case off Amazon. I do miss the ease of the gripping surface of the Fram but won't go back.
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By Tedster - 4 Years Ago
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Pg. 3 (They didn't waste any time in those days) of the Operator's Manual for my Truck is titled "The Value of Regular Maintenance"; after the initial pleasantries identifying me as someone who "understands value", due to my selection of a Ford, it outlines 11 of the Owner's Responsibilities, and the first 3 are
1. Check Oil Level Frequently
2. Use the Right Engine Oil
3. Use The Right Oil Filter
And sez:
"The engine oil filter is EVEN MORE IMPORTANT in preserving the internal condition of your engine."
That's almost certainly true, or at least the engineers would be in a better position to know. I'll take their word for it. Can't see any particular reason to save $.50 and use anything but the FL-1 or the WIX equivalent.
It isn't necessarily the filtering and obssessing over whether its 0.2 or 0.3 microns between brands, that we should be concerned with. One thing to note is how they are constructed, the actual location (and materials) of the bypass valve. Less expensive filters will allow dirty oil to drain back into the sump and circulate. Store replacement filters in their original box and also inspect the insides of the filter with a strong light for any manufacturing debris or defects prior to installation.
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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I, too, am not on the 'Fram is bad" band wagon. My opinion is if they are so bad, then there would be numerous stories of engines being destroyed as a direct result of using Fram filters and those stories don't seem to exist.
When watching reviews, pay attention to how the reviewer explains things. If the review is nothing more than filter A uses lower quality materials while filter B uses higher quality materials, therefore filter B is better, then they aren't telling you much. That review can be disregarded. You want a person who can explain why one is "better" than the other, not just declare that it is and with some context. For instance, if one uses cheaper materials, which R&D determine is good for 4000 miles while another uses more expensive materials which is good for 5000 miles and you change oil every 3000 miles, what does it matter to you which is used? Both will do the job. Make sure you understand why something differs in quality from another and determine for yourself if it will have any tangible impact for your use-case. This goes for reviews of anything, not just oil filters.
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By PF Arcand - 4 Years Ago
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I see that this subject is almost as controversial as "what oil I use in my engine"! Fram filters are usually about the cheapest on the market & their filter seems to be the only one that gets bad publicity. Is it deserved? I don't know, but for a modest price difference & for what it protects, I'll pay the difference. For my Y-Block, which is only a hobby car, so I'm not changing the filter every few months, I use the Motorcraft (Ford) FL-1A. And when I read that Ted Eaton uses the Wix 51515 for his high perfomance engines, I'll recommend that one too.. Nuff said..
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By pegleg - 4 Years Ago
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Paul,
There was a "test" in hot Rod a few years back. I don't remember the date. They compared various oil filters one against the other. I don't remember all the results but the WIX filters were one of the best. Surprisingly the Frams were among the worst. I've used WIX ever since with good results.
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By slumlord444 - 4 Years Ago
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My T Bird I always use Ford filters. My drivers I use what ever is cheap. Pick up a lot of filters at swap meets cheap. Also use Wal Mart genaric oil in my drivers. Change the oil and filter evry 3 or 4 thousand miles and no issues. Use Valovilen VR1 Racing oil in the T Bird. Change it once a year if it needs it or not. Retired mechanic budy always tells me that brand is not nearly as important as changint regularly.
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By PF Arcand - 4 Years Ago
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Slumlord444; Interesting points you make re the filters & oils for your everyday drivers & then that you use Ford filters & "Race" oil for your T-bird.. Is the Bird primarly used for racing?..
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By Rusty_S85 - 4 Years Ago
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Mine was converted to spin on for my grandfather by my father back in the mid 70`s and it takes the FL1A filter perfectly. I still use Motorcraft FL1A filters but seriously looking at the decal wrap to make them look like the older filters as it seems every time the filter is installed it always stops with the spanish text facing upwards that you can clearly see from under the hood.
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By Rusty_S85 - 4 Years Ago
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slumlord444 (10/8/2020)
My T Bird I always use Ford filters. My drivers I use what ever is cheap. Pick up a lot of filters at swap meets cheap. Also use Wal Mart genaric oil in my drivers. Change the oil and filter evry 3 or 4 thousand miles and no issues. Use Valovilen VR1 Racing oil in the T Bird. Change it once a year if it needs it or not. Retired mechanic budy always tells me that brand is not nearly as important as changint regularly.
I strictly use motorcraft filters myself, ive used wix before but got away from them after I had 3 of them seize up on the motor and they had to be removed with a hammer and a screwdriver. I went back to running the OE brand filter for the car and those problems that came up with Wix went away. Wix might be better now but when I tried them years ago there was something with the rubber seal that even with oil in my cases locked them on too tightly.
For oil I run valvoline in everything. I used to run Pennzoil but I switched long ago. People dont understand that when it comes to oil, there are only a handful of refineries that produce motor oil. What makes the oil different from brand to brand is their unique additive package that the refineries add in. If they dont want to add unique additives then they all have the same basic additives. I go with Valvoline cause their oil has in my opinion a better additive package that helps reduce wear and helps the oil coat bearing surfaces longer helping to reduce dry start ups. For my '56 being a solid lifter engine I like you run the VR1 racing oil for the extra zinc. I used to run 20w50 but have since reduced it down to 10w30 as I can source 10w30 easier now locally than I could 3 years ago where it was either 20w50 or straight weight oils. I also like you change my oil every year regardless of miliage. I need to send my odometer out to Bobs Speedometer shop and get it rebuilt though, the tenths work fine but the miles dont work. Once I get that fixed I will actually try to drive the car more and will follow the 2,000 mi oil change interval for the engine.
In the name of importance, it is good filter then good oil. The filter is more important than the oil is in many aspects but it also means you dont want to chinch running the cheapest oil you can find with the bare bones basic additive package.
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By Jack Groat - 4 Years Ago
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I have no preference on choice of brands. I stopped by O'Reillys and asked for a Fram Ph8a or a Wix 51515 as recommended by you guys and they had neither... So I bought an Autolite FL-1a, the only one they had..
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