If you are going to run a Pertronix Unit in your distributor, my personal choice is to not connect the wire from the kick down switch. The O/D kick down switch is open to the elements and it's crude by today's standards.  The momentary ground signal is not healthy for a Pertronix unit.  In my car it caused an intermittent miss. Since I disconnected it, I have no more problems.

Many TBird owners are sensitive to originality.  To me, anything that makes the car better or safer is worthwhile.  I only make modifications to my car that can be reversed just in case a future owner wishes to do so.

so Phil are you saying if no problem with OD kick down it might be a fine to connect the kick down wire without issuse with pertronix ?

I don't miss the kick down feature.  I could fix it if I wanted to.  Perhaps I will some day?   If I'm going to pass, I down shift.  Some people disconnect the O/D circuit by using a toggle switch.  This is problematic.  If you forget and leave O/D engaged in first, you could blow the sun gear.  Good luck finding one.  If you do, I hope your credit card isn't maxed out.  The way around all this is to put the points back in and put everything back to way it was made.  You could change to a 5 speed, but you would miss the cool part of having an original O/D car.

first put in a pertronx igniter ll with a flame thrower ll  coil.  Seem to have great improve things. Tach issuse seem gone, pulls through rpms steady and power good.  Only issuse is when putting pedal to floor at cursing speed pulls strong but this  full throttle then cause a slight floating as it pulls rpm.  I am thinking it might be a timing issue or carb. issuse.  My timing is at about 10 degrees, vac.  at 17.  I have a 57 312ci  B intake  Holley street avenger 570 cmf ( do not know what jets size inside or power valve ) , 57 distributor.
At present to lead for the kick down is not connected.  Have not heard the idea that connecting this lead will cause a problem.  Any thoughts on this kickdown lead so I don't make a mistake connecting it? 

Not all vacuum advance cannisters can be adjusted.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Going to try some of these suggestions hopefully this weekend. Have checking into tune up information and read so information on mechanical timing, vacuum timing, total timing. Found it to be interesting. Also found out something I did not know. That you can adjust the vacuum canister with Allen wrench through the hose port. Am I getting into this more then needed.? Any input on this subject.

Point bounce is why I asked if the engine pulled past 3500 rpm.  Remove the points, bend the spring backwards a small amount, reinstall, set gap, and go for a test drive and see if the stumble goes away, or moves up the rpm scale.  If it changes, a performance set of points should solve the issue.  Joe-JDC

JDC

I agree Phil. I went thru 2 condensers before I woke up and went to the Pertronix Unit with their coil and I kept the stock ballast. They are also available for the 6 volt systems too.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Why run points at all?  I have a 1957 distributor in my 292 with a Pertronix unit, no ballast resistor and a 1.5 ohm Pertronix coil.  It's cheap enough and works perfectly.   I went to this setup when I couldn't find a points and condenser set that would work more than a few days.  Most auto store YBlock parts are junk.