to me those seats look ok,a final check with a marking pen and turning the valve by hand will show the seat valve to head. remember with to days gas they will pound in,with out hardened seat inserts just put a small amount of oil in the gas.  the valves look ok but what does the seat look like, the marking pen or a soft pencil on seat then rotate the dry clean valve and seat in head will show the true storey. hardened seat inserts are difficult as the accuracy of the cut in the head is critical,with no clear sign that the insert is ok(the marker will indicate) . if the insert is not bang on you can grind the valves all you want with poor results.
 i have a old valve refaced as well as seat grinder,it takes a lot of patience to do a good job,if i would charge for my time it would cost you a fortion. the machine shop,at least hear use a cutter foreheads and grinder for valves and demand have guide be on spec


0

No, it's not OK, find someone with a 3 angle cutter (Serdi) and it's a 20 min job , it takes me about 2 hours to do it with stones most people will not take the time to do it right. 

Buy a Neway seat cutter set (used if you can) and do it at home (easy to use but slow) it's not to much money if you only get 2 cutter heads.

Just chatted to another machine shop 1.5 hours away and I’m dropping the heads off on Friday. The guys said they use the same machines that they use in formula one and can do Anywhere up to 9 angle valve jobs and can cut a valve seat with a tolerance of 1 micron (0.000039). Hopefully I’m on the right track! Plus I’m getting a partial refund from the previous machinist.

This time around, I’m already in deep so I’m thinking I may as well get new intake seats, new valve guide inserts and explore the possibility of getting oversized valves.

Edit- just read that larger valves in the ECZ-G heads does not help and simply cleaning up the bowls will benefit flow more.


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

On the road to recovery!
What you're thinking of doing would be nice...Y not?

"FREE SAMPLE"

Another update-

So the heads have been at the machinist for a week and they are not happy with the previous work to the extent that the valve seats have been cut so deep they are worried about drilling for new intake seats Incase they hit a water passage. So they have come up with a plan to find some 2inch intake valves (from a scruby) and use the added diameter in the valve to cut a new seat to suit. Alternately they could make 8 custom valves which would cost about $80 each + machine work on top of that- which they said they don’t want to do for my sake.

I did mention that the larger valves could potentially effect the air flow (I think I read the larger valves are closer to the edge of combustion chamber and can “shroud” the valve) so he said he would cut the valve angle for best flow.

Hopefully I receive some good news and can pick the heads up late next week and not pay through the nose.


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Your G heads have 1 15/16 inch intake valves.  2 inch valves are .062 bigger in diameter, which means one side of the valve will be .031 closer to the chamber wall.  I doubt you would ever know the difference in performance.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Use sbc 2.02, 200 long they fit like they were made for it.

John- thanks for the info, good to know!

Cliff- thank you, I’ll let the shop know!


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Check this out


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Manley-10798-8-Set-8-street-flo-Stainless-Steel-Intake-Valves-2-02-Dia-200L/382213329188?hash=item58fdb09124:g:kiEAAMXQrhdTSEuF