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'56 272 Rocker Shaft Retainer Stud Problem

Posted By Bogner24 Last Month
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Bogner24
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I found out why the RH valve cover gasket was leaking so bad in the rear. Went to reinstall the VC cover and gasket (thanks for prior post replies!) and something looked and felt weird. Looked a little closer and the prior wrench must have had a problem and stacked 3 nuts on it then tightened the top nut? Only thing I can figure is that something happened to the threads or they dropped the original nut? Anyway, the top nut in the picture tightens. The lower 2 spin free. I looked at my manual and there's really no guidance here, just says tighten to specs.I can't leave it this way, the nuts hit the VC, holding the sealing surface off the head, hence the pouring oil leak. None of this addressed in my 56 service manual. 

My question is, is this just a regular stud? Double nut it and turn it out, find another stud with good threads, and replace? Find a stock type nut? The other three studs have an umbrella looking nut, and only 1 each. Need opinions, guys! Also, I don't know how to torque a stud...Edit: I guess just a deep well socket. DUH

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b1bde1d9-824a-4f21-b3ac-89a3.jpg


1956 F600 272
2005 F250 5.4

Robs36Ford
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This the ford part diagram. There is just one nut to hold the rocker shaft mount. Maybe the extra ones you have are to move the nut up from some damaged threads ? May need to replace that stud then.



1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes.
1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip!
1976 Chev Camaro RS LT
Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1

Bogner24
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Robs36Ford (7/7/2020)
This the ford part diagram. There is just one nut to hold the rocker shaft mount. Maybe the extra ones you have are to move the nut up from some damaged threads ? May need to replace that stud then.


That's a little different than mine is now, I don't have acorn nuts, mine's an F600, but yeah, I think that must be what happened. I think Ill just pull it out and see what the story is. 

Does anyone know the torque spec on that one and do you think I can get away with making a grade 5 stud or should I order a "real stud" somewhere? She ain't no race car! 

1956 F600 272
2005 F250 5.4

paul2748
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Get a piece of all thread (threaded rod) at your local hardware store and cut to fit>  CASCO has ones the right length, part # 354575S (steel valve covers)


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Cliff
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Don't use all thread, all thread is not hard enough, do not use an automotive stud from the hardware store (most are grade 3), buy the right part. Dennis Carpenter should have it.  
Joe-JDC
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Don't use the ones from Larry's Thunderbirds, they are not hardened, and I have broken two new ones.  The threads are different on each end.  Course in the head, and fine for the acorn nut.  Joe-JDC

JDC
charliemccraney
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You can get high strength all thread from an industrial supply, like Mcmaster Carr.  I wouldn't trust the typical stuff from the hardware store, though.  As Joe mentions, you will have to use different nuts if you do that.


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DryLakesRacer
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Double nut at the top, take it out, measure it. I’ll bet ARP has one. Don’t say what it’s for just total length bottom threads ( how long) shank, the top threads and length and ask them for the pt number. I’ve bought head studs for my GMC 6 by doing this. After I had the number and goggled it and bought them at Summit at a discount... studs are not rocket science.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
darrell
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anyone who plays around with these old engines will have a dozen laying around.
stuey
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Hi
Feel free to shoot me down in flames.
I don't know if this applies to all studs but ARP, for head studs, says to bottom the stud and tighten finger tight.
I double nut and go a bit more.
The rubber washer/grommet is shown on the underside of the valve cover so maybe the extra nuts are to support the grommet.
I have mine on the topside of the valve cover and I am very gentle when tightening the acorn nuts.
I have seen this discussed some where. Maybe "Y Not a Y-Block"
The nuts were not free to spin and had to be carefully set to get the correct squish on both the valve cover gasket and the grommet.
Maybe???
stuey


 


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