|
By Bogner24 - 4 Years Ago
|
I found out why the RH valve cover gasket was leaking so bad in the rear. Went to reinstall the VC cover and gasket (thanks for prior post replies!) and something looked and felt weird. Looked a little closer and the prior wrench must have had a problem and stacked 3 nuts on it then tightened the top nut? Only thing I can figure is that something happened to the threads or they dropped the original nut? Anyway, the top nut in the picture tightens. The lower 2 spin free. I looked at my manual and there's really no guidance here, just says tighten to specs.I can't leave it this way, the nuts hit the VC, holding the sealing surface off the head, hence the pouring oil leak. None of this addressed in my 56 service manual.
My question is, is this just a regular stud? Double nut it and turn it out, find another stud with good threads, and replace? Find a stock type nut? The other three studs have an umbrella looking nut, and only 1 each. Need opinions, guys! Also, I don't know how to torque a stud...Edit: I guess just a deep well socket. DUH
|
|
By Robs36Ford - 4 Years Ago
|
This the ford part diagram. There is just one nut to hold the rocker shaft mount. Maybe the extra ones you have are to move the nut up from some damaged threads ? May need to replace that stud then.
|
|
By Bogner24 - 4 Years Ago
|
Robs36Ford (7/7/2020)
This the ford part diagram. There is just one nut to hold the rocker shaft mount. Maybe the extra ones you have are to move the nut up from some damaged threads ? May need to replace that stud then.
That's a little different than mine is now, I don't have acorn nuts, mine's an F600, but yeah, I think that must be what happened. I think Ill just pull it out and see what the story is.
Does anyone know the torque spec on that one and do you think I can get away with making a grade 5 stud or should I order a "real stud" somewhere? She ain't no race car!
|
|
By paul2748 - 4 Years Ago
|
Get a piece of all thread (threaded rod) at your local hardware store and cut to fit> CASCO has ones the right length, part # 354575S (steel valve covers)
|
|
By Cliff - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Don't use all thread, all thread is not hard enough, do not use an automotive stud from the hardware store (most are grade 3), buy the right part. Dennis Carpenter should have it.
|
|
By Joe-JDC - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Don't use the ones from Larry's Thunderbirds, they are not hardened, and I have broken two new ones. The threads are different on each end. Course in the head, and fine for the acorn nut. Joe-JDC
|
|
By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
|
|
You can get high strength all thread from an industrial supply, like Mcmaster Carr. I wouldn't trust the typical stuff from the hardware store, though. As Joe mentions, you will have to use different nuts if you do that.
|
|
By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Double nut at the top, take it out, measure it. I’ll bet ARP has one. Don’t say what it’s for just total length bottom threads ( how long) shank, the top threads and length and ask them for the pt number. I’ve bought head studs for my GMC 6 by doing this. After I had the number and goggled it and bought them at Summit at a discount... studs are not rocket science.
|
|
By darrell - 4 Years Ago
|
|
anyone who plays around with these old engines will have a dozen laying around.
|
|
By stuey - 4 Years Ago
|
Hi
Feel free to shoot me down in flames.
I don't know if this applies to all studs but ARP, for head studs, says to bottom the stud and tighten finger tight.
I double nut and go a bit more.
The rubber washer/grommet is shown on the underside of the valve cover so maybe the extra nuts are to support the grommet.
I have mine on the topside of the valve cover and I am very gentle when tightening the acorn nuts.
I have seen this discussed some where. Maybe "Y Not a Y-Block"
The nuts were not free to spin and had to be carefully set to get the correct squish on both the valve cover gasket and the grommet.
Maybe???
stuey
|
|
By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
|
Stuey, I stud the rocker stands of the off topic racing engines I build. I follow the same procedures as cylinder head studs leaving them finger tight and they do not go into water jackets. I do this because I am treating them like bolts and the supports are aluminum. You need to make sure the upper threads are free and the nut spins ez. I also use hardened washers.
A stock engine with less spring pressure and steel stands probably do not to be treated the same. I think bottoming out the stud would be ok. Ted has built a lot of these engines, both stock and high performance, I would follow his advice.
I have never noticed in the assembly schematic that the washer was under and I have never seen any engine that way.
|
|
By Joe-JDC - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Deleted info. Joe-JDC
|
|
By Bogner24 - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks for all the replies. I'll get it figured out. I don't have the acorn nuts and when I took it apart my large gaskets were on top. Seems a bit odd to me that they would be under and I can tell from the 3 correct ones (I think) that I don't think that will work here. Maybe truck engines are different. I remembered last night that I think I have some old studs in one of my many MISC drawers. I would order but really want to get this thing back running...
|
|
By MoonShadow - 4 Years Ago
|
Here are the right rocker nuts if you want them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Y-Block-239-256-272-292-312-Valley-Pan-Oil-Pump-bolts-Valve-Cover-Nuts/264789747950?hash=item3da6b2e8ee%3Ag%3AhBMAAOSwN5xfBiGw&LH_GD=0
|
|
By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
|
Joe,
35-43# for a 5/16" thread?
|
|
By Robs36Ford - 4 Years Ago
|
I found it odd too that the FORD book show the rubber grommet is under the cover but thenI looked at the Mercury parts book and it is over the cover !???! I have it over as it is wayyyyyyy easier to get a good seal.
|
|
By Bogner24 - 4 Years Ago
|
Got it all done. Took out the stud and chased it. I don't know why prior wrench did it the way they did. No matter. All back up and running.
Also, on my engine, there would be no way to put that grommet under the VC. The Marc book is more accurate.
Thanks guys!
|
|
By Joe-JDC - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Info deleted. Joe-JDC
|