What did You use for a Fuel Pressure Regulator? Most of the Ones I found Online won't regulate down to that Pressure.

  

I had all three carbs stock after the initial instal. I personally had a difficult time tuning at idle and low speed since even with the outer idle screws adjusted all the way down, they were still sucking enough air to make a rough, rich idle. I bought the kit from Charlie that includes all three base plates with idle screws removed in the outer's, and seal up great. no power valves in outer carbs, 51 jets in outer, 52 in the center carb, progressive linkage, 1.5 lbs of fuel pressure, no vacuum advance to a Mallory Unilite dist. Works great for me with 15 mpg

Assuming you have a '57 or later distributor, your trips should work. Make block off plates for the end carbs.  I made mine out of sheet aluminum.  Install the center carb and tune the engine to idle smoothly and drive without hesitation.  This will flush out any major issues.  When you are happy, install the end carbs and hook up the progressive linkage.  The end carbs only open at full throttle. 

I  have been following this Topic with great Interest. I bought a complete 3 x 2 Setup off Ebay. .Professionally built . Offenhauser Manifold. 3 matched "59" Carbs. Never installed.The  end Carbs have both Power Valves and Idle Screws intact. #51 Jets.  I don't know what Jets are in the Center Carb yet. I have a new Progressive Linkage  from Charlie Price. What is the preferred Base and power Valve setup for the end Carbs? No Power Valve? No Idle Screws? Or try it the way it is now and see what happens? There is only Choke on Center Carb. The Vacuum outlet for Distributor is plugged. Does that only work with the Original Loadomatic Distributor? Currently I have a 4160 Holley with later Distributor. Looking for a little more " Bling" not really better Performance. Stock Engine.

  

I went through the same thing on my 57 a few years ago. What eventually fixed mine was I purchased 2 new throttle bases (from Charlie Price) for the outer carbs. I still have a whole shelf full of Holley 94 carbs I tried to run on the outer ends of my 3x2 set up to fix it from drawing vacuum.. The new bases was the only way I could stop the outer carbs from sucking air. As others have mentioned, I blocked off the outer carbs and adjusted the center carb to run correctly first. After that I installed the outer carbs with the new bases and it ran great. It's been a few years but I think I was running 57 jets in the primary carb and 55 in the secondary carbs. I was running a good size Comp cam in it to so I was dealing with low engine vacuum also. It was a lot of trial and error but I eventually got it to run good.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

You can use an unlit Propane Torch or a can of Ether Spray to check for Leak. Engine will speed up when fuel drawn in where its leaking.

  

I had a similar problem with my trips.  I isolated the problem by blocking off the end manifold holes and switching the main bodies around.  This is easily done.  Charlie sets up his end carbs without power valves and leaves the idle circuits.  This allows you to fine tune the idle if you have a wilder camshaft like mine. My problem was in one of the carbs.  Charlie built a new carb for me and it worked fine.   Those old carbs are the problem.  I don't believe Charlie ever found the problem.  It was easier to build another.   He has a mountain of them behind his shop.

I sold my trips on EBay.  Not because they didn't work, I grew tired of dealing with old parts.  I'm setting up my dual quads with new Holleys.

Let me clarify something! I am saying the the guy did an outstanding job reworking the two outer carburetors.
There is no issue with his work!
As I stated previously this was an "inherited issue"! So obviously there is something more going on here, I adjusted the linkage, to make sure that there is no binding and the throttle plates are completely shut! Since it is sucking air in the end carburetor, there is obviously a slight vacuum leak somewhere. My next step is to build a small smoke machine and try to locate it. I appreciate all the input guys!

Been reading your problem also on the Ford Barn, so removing the outer carbs is a new variable you didn't mention before. Removing one at a time may help find which one, if not both. So, I own 3 vehicles with Tri-Power's, all work perfect! I bought the base plate kit's from Charlie Price for all three. The new base plates have no idle mixture screws and seal damn near 100% If your feeling a air draw thru the secondaries, You need to pull them and verify where and why. I did all the rebuilds on mine, just bought his parts, but I really hear nothing but good stuff coming from him, so it's interesting your having issues after he serviced them. This has got to be something dumb that your missing, double check your progressive linkage as if they are not set right, you could be holding a butterfly open just a bit

Still love your convertible, it's beautiful!
Back to business, both outer carbs are models # 59. I don't know what years these were used on? BUT! For whatever reason they don't have any idle mixture screw port's drilled in them! Or perhaps someone modified them and used a different base plate?. Anyways, I don't have a way to make sure throttle plates are closing all the way. Other than just feeling the linkage and visually looking down into the throat.