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suspension rebuild question

Posted By texasmark1 5 Years Ago
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pintoplumber
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Plumbing threads and bolt threads are different. They make threaded rod couplings which are bolt threads. Get one of those.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
KULTULZ
Posted 5 Years Ago
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sure wish I could locate the old Ford tool shown in the shop manual!

Mark     


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/cc099dad-827a-4216-8bc3-4e40.jpg

Here is a home made version and they are dangerous as they are not hardened -

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/77b0244a-b58a-42dd-af48-7a30.jpg

Now here is a copy of the FORD TOOL using hardened steel, acme threads and a bearing to make the turning easier. All of this can be sourced from the OTC Catalog. They have loose parts such as this to service old tools or fabricate.

Be careful of using one not hardened as it can explode in your face.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/1eafe0b6-6be1-48da-8695-e817.jpg






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texasmark1
Posted 5 Years Ago
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so a threaded coupling and a couple of bolts...
OTC here I come!

in the same vicinity as my ball joints, I'm trying to get my idler arm off but the two grease-fitting equipped nuts refuse to come off...  they will turn a few rounds then tighten back up!
anybody else have this happen?
 

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX
MoonShadow
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Thanks for the picture. I couldn't see how it worked but now it is clear.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
KULTULZ
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... in the same vicinity as my ball joints, I'm trying to get my idler arm off but the two grease-fitting equipped nuts refuse to come off...  they will turn a few rounds then tighten back up!

anybody else have this happen?


It is described in your SHOP MANUAL. There are two sections, one for MS and another for PS.



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texasmark1
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yes it's described in the shop manual... simply says "remove the idler arm from the bushing..."

what I've encountered is no matter how many ways I try to remove it, both nuts will come loose for a few turns then tighten up again.

am I dense on this one?

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX
KULTULZ
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what I've encountered is no matter how many ways I try to remove it, both nuts will come loose for a few turns then tighten up again.


No, you are not dense. This is MANUAL STEERING, correct?



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KULTULZ
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http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/53944b45-36f4-43fd-8c4e-8d79.jpg

If MS, the bushings themselves screw into the idler arm bracket and drag link end. Turn the bushings in the opposite direction.

To re-assemble complete arm, follow directions carefully as it determines pre-load adjustment. Actually, read the install section first and this may give you a better idea of how to take apart.

The PS arm is completely different.



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oldcarmark
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Page 177 of Shop Manual explains how to dis-assemble the Idler Arm. Unbolt the Idler Arm Bracket from Frame. Unthread the arm from nut on Bracket by turning the Bracket. The Arm is removed from end of Drag Link the same way. The Nuts come out last as they are threaded into Idler Arm Bracket and Drag Link. If U are trying to undo Nuts first that is where your Problem is.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/339ed844-0bc3-4c73-8368-5dd3.jpg
texasmark1
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I've tried both directions; they loosen up a bit and then get tight again!

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX


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