oriely sells a couple and others likey have them.


1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes.
1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip!
1977 Ford F-250 Supercab RWD Explorer Long box.
1976 Chev Camaro RS LT
Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1

I used a pickle fork on mine. It will tear up the boot and cup washers but those are available new and probably should be replaced anyway

Durham Missouri

where can these items be found?

This type of tool is best found (IMO) at OTC TOOLS. They were (are) a major supplier of FORD SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS.

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I back the nut off a couple of turns, and take a big hammer and hit the spindle where the taper of the ball joint stud is seated.  Hit it squarely on the side of the spindle boss.  2 or 3 raps usually unseats the ball joint.  Do not support the A arm at this point, let the spring pressure help you.  That's why the nut is left on but loose, so the thing won't fly apart.  After you break the joints loose, then you can support the A arm and take the ball joints out.  Also works on the tie rod ends.   

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I assume you are going to replace the control arm bushings too?    I borrowed a bushing tool kit from the local auto parts store.  Made the job a little easier.  No charge unless you don't return it.  Have fun.

Thanks for all the suggestions!
I now have some more ammo with which to attack the job.

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

The Tool shown in Shop Manual will not separate Ball Joint from the Control Arm on its own. It is used to put  pressure on the Stud and then a good rap from Hammer on the Spindle should cause the Stud to pop out. Just pay Attention to what You loosen and how much. There's a lot of tension on the Suspension from the Coil Spring. Work safely.

  

BTW OTC Tools is still with us; just checked out their website.

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

I never use piclke forks when it can be avoided. They always destroy the rubber boot, and leave gouges in the spindle. When working on a Shelby worth $100,000 or more, gouging the spindle is considered bad form.

Read this - https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/found-the-best-ball-joint-separator.977657/

Just SAY NO to pickle forks and BFH's

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about to get desperate...
went to Home Depot; found a "coupling" used in plumbing, threaded all the way thru, but then could not find any bolts with the same thread pattern to screw into both ends then put the tool in place and back out the screws/bolts to break the ball joints loose.

been beating on the spindle bosses too but can't get any movement that way.
there's an outfit named Grainger in my area; sells all sorts of industrial parts and tools.  Guess they'll be my next place to try.

again, thanks for all the suggestions... sure wish I could locate the old Ford tool shown in the shop manual!
Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX