If your set on keeping points and condenser You can buy the correct micro-farad unit at an electronics supply store. Over on the the H.A.M.B. a contributor Jim aka "Squirrel" has posted the part # many times. When I purchased my 56 the Loadmatic was still in it and it started right up. Same when I put in the 57 either with points or the Pertronix II. After 5 years I quit carrying the old set up. I do have the coil terminals horizontal.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

"FREE SAMPLE"

As always the information you all provide is great !!!!!!  Thanks, I can move forward knowing that you all are there for the y-block community.  

I agree, Chinese condensers are crap but I don't know who would make them here as there is such a low demand for them anymore. But we make 10 million chopsticks a year here for export to Japan, China etc and I've never heard of one failure

I ran points and a condenser in my TBird for some time.  I did this because I thought it would be more reliable. I had so much trouble with junk Chinese condensers failing that I switched to Pertronix. I don't know what anyone else thinks about Trump, but as far as the Chinese are concerned they should stick to making straw hats.

Not leaving the ignition key in the RUN position without the engine running - this also holds VERY true with contact points & condenser, if the points happen to be closed, then the current draw will be constant at around 5 amps and the coil may well burn up in a short period of time as well as the points themselves.

Interestingly there is no mention of this "feature" in either the operator's manual nor the shop manual for '64. Maybe they mention it in other make or model year literature? Seems like it would be important enough to warrant at least a passing comment. The Pertronix oil filled coil doesn't seem to care for full time battery voltage, at least mounted horizontally. Oil filled coils are supposed to be installed with the + and - terminals horizontal when mounted sideways fwiw. This keeps the windings immersed in the oil. Even so, I had to replace it after several years with an epoxy potted unit.

The ignition scope is indeed a great tool to see what's really going on with whatever setup you've chosen. Everything has to work together and sometimes mixing and matching ignition parts can have unpredictable results. Being able to actually see individual cylinder firing voltages, cam wobble, dwell etc in real time is very useful in getting a good idle and smooth performance.

I should have mentioned I run straight 12V no resistor. If you order a kit that includes a coil you get the oil filled. I order the unit and epoxy coil separately.. I've read that the oil filled coils are best mounted vertically. I've seen many mounted on firewalls due to lack of room on the manifold to some stock air cleaners. I don't always stop when the pavement ends and I think the epoxy coils are more durable for vibration.

Greetings to all:  All the information above is truly excellent. It becomes a question of: Choosing your weapon. After performing some experiments with points, Duraspark and Pertronix using a distributor machine with the correct components for each and a bench oscilloscope, I was able to make a few interesting observations. Perhaps the most important item is when the ballast resistance was eliminated, the voltage spiked higher more rapidly producing a hotter spark. Not only was this evident on the scope but was very noticeable by sight and sound.  Another observation is the magnetic trigger device produces a usable signal sooner than the Pertronix device. Probably of little importance, but when I installed the Duraspark device (magnetic trigger)  in my distributor it made for instant engine start -up.  The  mentioning of the Duraspark box retarding the timing a few degrees while cranking and an epoxy filled coil eliminating the chance of part of the internal coil spool being exposed to air when mounted horizontally are worth repeating. Just my $.03 worth and as always, hope this helps, JEFF................


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

I've had Pertronix I for 20 years in my 289 mustang and Pertronix II in my Y block for 10 years, never a problem. I use the epoxy filled coils rather then oil filled.

I have a similar motor in my Tbird.  I changed to a Pertronix 1 and a Pertronix 1.5 Ohm Flame Thrower coin with no resistor.  Starts first time every time and runs great.  Why didn't I use a Pertronix II?  Just old and stuck in my ways I guess.  The only thing I have been warned about with the Pertronix 1 is not to leave the key on without the engine running.   I disconnect the coil wires if I need to keep this from happening.  I have been using the Pertronix 1 for years and have never had one go out on me....yet.