I know that this question has been ask again and again.  I have read a lot of old post on the subject.  Most a dated so I am wondering if you all would mind answering the question again.
I have a 1957 Ford 312 y block, I been told had been rebuilt and have no info of what was done during rebuild.  Appear to be solid and has great compression. Has G heads, 57 intake and Holley 570 cmf carb.  with a stock 1957 Disturber.  Would like to convert to either the Pertronix ll or Accel  if I have them correct. ( confused at which model # applies ) 
My question is.  Is one a better choose then the other? What is needed to go alone with this upgrade?  Any and all input will be gratefully helpful !!! 

Can only reply that I installed a Pertronix II 5 years ago after experiencing problems with condensers. I bought their coil and kept the stock ballast resister in the circuit. I has never cause me any problem, the timing has never moved when checked, and the spark plugs look good. I take a few out once a year to look. I have never changed one.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

The Pertronix 2 is # 91281. Flamethrower 2 Pertronix Coil is #45011. You can bypass the Resistor or leave it in.I took mine out. One less Item to fail down the Road. I used Pertronix 2 for 10 Years and never had a Problem.

  

i went to ford dura spark.used the original dist with some parts from later 302 duraspark did,purchased the durspark box new
for 40 cn.. did 2y blocks , 1st 57 ranchero,2nd my current 49f43 with 292 y. good option is if you hook the white wire to the solenoid2nd term. you get 3to 4 degrees of retard on crank.great for hot starts cost apron 150.00 ca plus bit of labour. used original coil. probably better to use later coil from original ford with dark from factoryhotr jolt

Get on hotrodreverend.com and look at my blog. I have installed quite a few of the ACCEL 2020 kits in Y block distributors with a very high success rate (100%) over the past 10 years with no failures. Most auto parts stores have them since the kit will fit Ford distributors from 1957-74. 

a post to consider:
https://www.hotrodreverend.com/in-progress/tag/ACCEL
The latest install to help a friend out.

Daniel Jessup

Loveland, Ohio

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I have a similar motor in my Tbird.  I changed to a Pertronix 1 and a Pertronix 1.5 Ohm Flame Thrower coin with no resistor.  Starts first time every time and runs great.  Why didn't I use a Pertronix II?  Just old and stuck in my ways I guess.  The only thing I have been warned about with the Pertronix 1 is not to leave the key on without the engine running.   I disconnect the coil wires if I need to keep this from happening.  I have been using the Pertronix 1 for years and have never had one go out on me....yet.

I've had Pertronix I for 20 years in my 289 mustang and Pertronix II in my Y block for 10 years, never a problem. I use the epoxy filled coils rather then oil filled.

Greetings to all:  All the information above is truly excellent. It becomes a question of: Choosing your weapon. After performing some experiments with points, Duraspark and Pertronix using a distributor machine with the correct components for each and a bench oscilloscope, I was able to make a few interesting observations. Perhaps the most important item is when the ballast resistance was eliminated, the voltage spiked higher more rapidly producing a hotter spark. Not only was this evident on the scope but was very noticeable by sight and sound.  Another observation is the magnetic trigger device produces a usable signal sooner than the Pertronix device. Probably of little importance, but when I installed the Duraspark device (magnetic trigger)  in my distributor it made for instant engine start -up.  The  mentioning of the Duraspark box retarding the timing a few degrees while cranking and an epoxy filled coil eliminating the chance of part of the internal coil spool being exposed to air when mounted horizontally are worth repeating. Just my $.03 worth and as always, hope this helps, JEFF................


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

I should have mentioned I run straight 12V no resistor. If you order a kit that includes a coil you get the oil filled. I order the unit and epoxy coil separately.. I've read that the oil filled coils are best mounted vertically. I've seen many mounted on firewalls due to lack of room on the manifold to some stock air cleaners. I don't always stop when the pavement ends and I think the epoxy coils are more durable for vibration.

Not leaving the ignition key in the RUN position without the engine running - this also holds VERY true with contact points & condenser, if the points happen to be closed, then the current draw will be constant at around 5 amps and the coil may well burn up in a short period of time as well as the points themselves.

Interestingly there is no mention of this "feature" in either the operator's manual nor the shop manual for '64. Maybe they mention it in other make or model year literature? Seems like it would be important enough to warrant at least a passing comment. The Pertronix oil filled coil doesn't seem to care for full time battery voltage, at least mounted horizontally. Oil filled coils are supposed to be installed with the + and - terminals horizontal when mounted sideways fwiw. This keeps the windings immersed in the oil. Even so, I had to replace it after several years with an epoxy potted unit.

The ignition scope is indeed a great tool to see what's really going on with whatever setup you've chosen. Everything has to work together and sometimes mixing and matching ignition parts can have unpredictable results. Being able to actually see individual cylinder firing voltages, cam wobble, dwell etc in real time is very useful in getting a good idle and smooth performance.