thank you...I did get rid of that too long bolt...I did not have a shorter one so for the moment I used that mickey mouse set up...good catch..some of you are VERY observant.....I only  used those washers  because that long bolt DID want to touch the push rod...

Gary Z. "ETTT=Ethyl*THE*Tool Truck" 1955 C600 272cid Y block T98 Eaton 1350 / "Brutus" 1972 F250 360cid FE C6 Camper Special Cust Sport/ "Edith" 1955 C600 restomod on a 2002 E550 Chassis 7.3 Powerstroke EOD/"Panzer" 1976 MBZ 450SL

c60z5e26168

C60 - Series Code
5 - Engine Code -256CI
E - ASSY PLANT - Edgewater

The driver side cylinder head is stamped EBZ6090L- I cant read the number  or design stamped on the underside of the passenger side head.  I have Included a photo of what shows there on that passenger side  maybe you can determine what those marks are....I did not see any other markings on this passenger side head.

The block is stamped  ECG 6015A 
The intake is stamped EBZ 9425 D  TWO BARREL with teapot 
Driver side head stamped EBZ6090L

Passenger side head has $A1 marked on its underside..see the picture I blew it up to 150 percent and could only see A1 or maybe A7 cant determine the mark just ahead of the A 

It should read 5:AI which is the CASTING DATE CODE.

ECL is 272. But the head(s) and intake are earlier 256 although the EBZ intake was also used on the 1956 272.

Either the engine may be a late year assy and they used a next model 272 short (need block DATE CASTING CODE - FOUNDRY MARK - ASSY DATE @ front of engine) to know exactly what happened. The short may also be a later service replacement short assy or was swapped in at some point.or possibly it is a later casting machined to 256 short specs. Regardless, it has EBZ heads and requires an earlier intake set.













I have read several descriptions of engine assembly details, even one or two claiming EBY  256 MERC inclusion.

Hope that helps. Just ask if you need anything else.

____________________________

Thank you so much. The one error I made when considering using an antique as the tool truck was not considering that information to keep ETTT running might not be as readily available ....I knew the technology was old but I also knew that it worked back then so it should work today....And it does work today...but things like all of this intake stuff has once again shown me where I stand. Through some pretty rotten luck and three large back to back to back repairs.  I have now been "down" for 2 months....which is very bad for my business...as much as my customers tell me they love me, I see the opportunities for a huge leg up my circumstances have provided my competition...I am sure I will get through this and work hard to regain my status...So your help is really important here..and will be with the next thing I will encounter...I AM Driving this truck and am trying to be a good steward to preserve her....so something will pop up or wear out or? I try to have extra parts and things ready but..
.I also now know that I need to pay EXTRA special attention to small details or they WILL bite me in a big way...Its really hard to not know what you dont know.....

On Friday I only reached John Mummerts answer machine...again. trying to get the correct gaskets..He told me he often doesnt have time to answer the phone although..he has been good and has phone me back. When I got the BEST Gasket set from  him recently I just took a chance that he would be in the machine shop and drove east 40 minutes one way to go see Mr Mummert.  Instead,  I spoke to BEST GASKET COMPANY (they are located as it happens a few hours north of me in Santa Fe Springs CA), I asked about all the choices I could have for Y Block intakes....BEST mentioned they had three part numbers. The one I have that clearly does not work for my smaller ports because its shape fits the bigger port intake manifolds(BEST part # 14045). The one for the 239cid (part#14043) and the one for the 256cid(part#14044)  I list all of this so someone else who might need intake gaskets can have the part numbers readily. I ordered the remaining two so I could eliminate most of the  chances that I would be disappointed on Monday.....I am looking forward to my early morning call from my UPS Depot where I had them shipped telling me I can come get them....



Gary Z. "ETTT=Ethyl*THE*Tool Truck" 1955 C600 272cid Y block T98 Eaton 1350 / "Brutus" 1972 F250 360cid FE C6 Camper Special Cust Sport/ "Edith" 1955 C600 restomod on a 2002 E550 Chassis 7.3 Powerstroke EOD/"Panzer" 1976 MBZ 450SL

I have the gasket you need, I'm in Long Beach, CA

714 514 7535

256cid(part#14044)

I believe that is the BEST GASKETS set you need.

Your top end is 1954-55 256CI EBZ Engine Series.

Let the board know and make sure you acquire the correct hardware.

____________________________

How close are you to Tim McMasters? He's one of the west coast division experts on all things Y. Could pick up a fresh rebuild from him for only 4k to 5k, easy. Give ole Ethyl a little spring in her step, nome sayin'?

Since the heads are off now is a good time to inspect/replace the rocker shafts and rocker bores for excessive wear and/or galling. A new set of valve springs and shim them up to the "installed height", new valve guide seals, maybe lap the valves etc etc. Make sure the oil passageways are free and clear, fresh oil pump &c.

Soo...In June it became absolutely necessary to do a head gasket job. What went from adding a gallon of coolant every 6 or so weeks went to doing that in three days. It drove me crazy the whole time...Long and short is the P/O had done work to Ethyl. Under the valve covers looked spotless. The temp gauge NEVER moved off of 190 once warm UNTIL I needed to add that coolant and then it only went to 195 hills/grades OR NOT. Even using a gallon in three days did not cause any sort of over heat. I would occasionally smell coolant from what could have been the exhaust but it could have also been from the overflow...like I said it made no sense then..
Upon pulling the head off, it became clear that the driver side head gasket had signs of trouble between cylinders five and six. Another forum I frequent answered well to guide me when I asked if I should replace the head bolts. Through devine intervention or plain luck or? One of the people guiding me had ONE SENTENCE in their instructional post  that caught my attention For SOME reason. Luckily I didnt just glance past that sentence. He said "be sure to put the head bolts where they belong there ARE THREE DIFFERENT Lengths".....I had poked all the head bolts through the lid of a box to keep them where they came from on their removal and found that the Two longer bolts were in holes that required the bolts that were just slightly shorter....Ah ha that is why I have always used coolant....that is why the head gasket finally failed...
I brought the heads even though they looked so nice to the machine shop. They did a valve job cleaned up surfaces etc. The seats were ALREADY hardened so they did not have to replace them. The guy doing the work was a 60 year old who was happy to see Y Block heads and we hit it off...Im sure he took every precaution to make sure no stone was left unturned...
That is when I also met John Mummert. The machine shop sent me to him for the ARP head bolts He is in EAST County here in San Diego. 40 minutes from me each way.  I tried to phone him then to no success. On our meeting  he told me he doesnt answer his phone because he needs to get stuff done. Since the heads were done at a place halfway to him, I choose to pick them up after I went  to him. I went  without really knowing if I would find a locked John Mummert machine shop door or not. Lucky for me John was there. He sold me the bolts. He sold me the BEST BRAND gasket set. I had a nice meeting with him where he told me he already knew about Ethyl...He is friends with a Truck Salesman at a Dealership I service and his friend had texted John a picture of Ethyl like a year before...It can be a small world. After I left John I picked up my fresh heads and proceeded to put Ethyl back together.
After I put her back together I had her running for a couple of days when I had brake issues and had to have ETTT down again for 3 weeks while I messed with all of those issues. I was NOT Thrilled with how my engine performed now with the recent work I had done but I had brake issues to deal with...
ETTT now had EVANS Waterless coolant in her. I had done Oxylic acid flush and the Evans Pretreatment to the letter etc So I was wanting to limit the back flow of coolant that only a 4psi pressurized cooling system has....NOW ETTT had 195 5 degrees warmer for where the temp gauge used to be Evans says to expect a little higher operating temp...not terrible but NOW on longer inclines The SAME exact uphills etc that I previously also drove with no ill effects, the temp gauge would GO UP TO to 230....and there was pinging at medium acceleration that was never present before all this work.  I didnt have a chance to dive in to see what was what because the brakes needed my attention first. And NO I hadnt done anything to check or alter timing so I still dont know about any of that yet either.....I need it running now to see all of that...I figured that heads off, heads back on it would run as well or better than before without touching anything else....maybe...maybe not...too many variables I need to solve this intake thing first before looking further.
After the brakes were fixed, I drove ETTT for a few days and found that I now had a coolant leak out of the driver side head at the corner of that head down the side of the block right at where the spark plug is. Like it was coming out of the spark plug wire loom bracket/holder that is bolted in place on the block just under the head. My NEW Work there was leaking.a small small steam out onto the block and then onto the ground....
I left for a getaway to Reno via Yosemite for 10 days. My youngest son lives in Reno. His boss gave him Labor day off. I had not met my newest grandchild  4 month old Gwen yet so on Aug27th at 2am wifey, our new puppy Ziggy and I left for Yosemite.  We had three days in Yosemite before we headed to Truckee CA where we stayed in a guest house AirBNB...Until Sept 6 . Coming home
I pulled off the intake and the left head to see what was what. I saw nothing obvious wrong. Then since I had NOT checked the work the machine shop did on my heads or I had NOT checked the blocks deck on my prior head gasket replacement, I did so NOW. I broke out the machinists straight edge in my tool inventory (I have a 35" one) The deck was good .002 or less. What I did find was that I had improperly installed the spark plug wire loom bracket....I had installed it BEFORE setting the head down because it was EASY TO GET TO WITH THE HEAD OFF. I didnt realize that it needed to be square....it was installed at an angle so that one of its two tabs that are supposed to just touch the bottom of the head was sticking up enough so that the straight edge made contact with it while trying to slide it over the edge there. I am still NOT Sure that was the cause of the leak RIGHT ABOVE THAT SPARK Plug WIRE ISOLATOR LOOM  Since I havent got this engine back together yet...Im waiting for the correct intake gaskets.....
Due to my prior complaints to the other forum about running too hot and pinging, Ive been instructed to verify timing and advance. I have found that I have no vacuum advance...the tube at the distributor advance was siliconed into the ford nut there. It was not crimped and its tube just came out of the fitting there when I messed with the vacuum hose...I have a new solid line now that I need to make sure the ford nuts do the crimp on....I dont know what I put down for an intake gasket last time, I thrashed it pulling it apart.and just chucked it on Sept10 or so..Im sure it was incorrect the gasket set John  Mummert Sold me was  the same one I just got from C&G Ford in Escondido its for a 272...I was probably lucky the last attempted must have just barely sealed...who knows...I did not have the massive vacuum leak I experienced on Thursday that was for sure....but maybe it had SOME vacuum leak that is why I had pinging and the engine ran to 230? 
On Monday I hope to have a priest throw some holy water on me and then go to UPS to get the 239 and 256 intake sets I ordered on Friday and put an end to this saga...anyone got a virgin to sacrifice to the engine gods? 





Gary Z. "ETTT=Ethyl*THE*Tool Truck" 1955 C600 272cid Y block T98 Eaton 1350 / "Brutus" 1972 F250 360cid FE C6 Camper Special Cust Sport/ "Edith" 1955 C600 restomod on a 2002 E550 Chassis 7.3 Powerstroke EOD/"Panzer" 1976 MBZ 450SL

Upon pulling the head off, it became clear that the driver side head gasket had signs of trouble between cylinders five and six. Another forum I frequent answered well to guide me when I asked if I should replace the head bolts. Through devine intervention or plain luck or? One of the people guiding me had ONE SENTENCE in their instructional post  that caught my attention For SOME reason. Luckily I didnt just glance past that sentence. He said "be sure to put the head bolts where they belong there ARE THREE DIFFERENT Lengths".....I had poked all the head bolts through the lid of a box to keep them where they came from on their removal and found that the Two longer bolts were in holes that required the bolts that were just slightly shorter....Ah ha that is why I have always used coolant....that is why the head gasket finally failed...

Ain't that something ...

As a matter of fact, the differing length head bolts did not began being used until the 1956 model run. You must have a 272 short with a 256 top end.

He most likely gave you the wrong intake set as a result of your thinking you had a complete 272.

Do you have a 1954-55 FORD TRUCK SHOP MANUAL?

BTW-

When you get all of this sorted out and your duckets all caught up, I expect to see alum wheels on the truck. Who decorated the box? Very tasteful.

____________________________

Tedster9 I really need Ethyl up and Running NOW....actually by Tuesday Night...I might need to find another Engine to put in Ethyl and then go through the one in her right now....That way can run her with the least amount of down time...I like being on top of things and right now I am not. That is most of my problem right now...not being on top. Thanks for suggesting this forum too....lots of knowledge here also...Between the two I should be ok and maybe stop making critical errors...I have an interesting engine....Really a 256 cid Y Block...Except maybe the block....eventually I will see marks on the front of the engine to see what will tell more of the story with that block...The truck WAS produced late in the year for 1955 so maybe Ford had to do some shifting of gears to make things happen...either way...that block number showing 272 and the rest being 256....I wonder if things like the front timing chain cover and the special high mount water pump can transfer between the 256 and the 272...I hope so...I have a NOS water pump for what I think will replace the one on ETTT right now on the shelf waiting for that day when it shows it doesnt want to play any longer with the bearings it has in it now....That is a hard item to find...once the one in her fails Ill send it out for rebuild.

Gary Z. "ETTT=Ethyl*THE*Tool Truck" 1955 C600 272cid Y block T98 Eaton 1350 / "Brutus" 1972 F250 360cid FE C6 Camper Special Cust Sport/ "Edith" 1955 C600 restomod on a 2002 E550 Chassis 7.3 Powerstroke EOD/"Panzer" 1976 MBZ 450SL