Ron,
           Less over lap and less timing will help. Try to keep the total down to 30 or 32 unless you want to buy race gas.



Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Frank;

Thanks for the advice! Here is some additional information I have learned thanks to Moonshadow and Ted. Comp Cams are NOT a good choice for Y Blocks because of the lifter bore angle. Apparently, Comp Cams grounds their cams based on a 41 degree lifter bore angle common to scrub motors. The Y Blocks use a 43 degree lifter bore angle, so in my case, the valve timing was off. I think this is what caused my issue on the dyno. Ted provided me the Isky cam card he used with Chuck's build, so with Chucks blessing, I plan on having a new cam ground with those same specs. Bad news is I will have to replace the lifters also which requires a complete tear down of the motor. Well, the coupe is not done anyway so I may as well do it now...this winter.

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

No blessing required from me Rono. Can't wait to hear that motor whine. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Thanks Chuck! I talked to Isky about your cam and it is a custom grind. I'm wondering if I can get the new lifters installed with just removing the crank but leaving the pistons and rods in the block? 

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

If it is on an engine stand, I would try to do it without removing the crank.  People do it in the vehicle with the crank in place so on a stand,with the engine upside down, it has to be a lot easier.  That said, as I get older, I'm learning to identify when shortcuts aren't actually shortcuts and if it became evident that it is a big pita, I would remove the crank.


Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks Charlie..good advice, but are you saying that the rods and pistons need to be out?  The motor will definitely  be on an engine stand when I attempt this.  I especially hate to pull apart a perfectly good rear main seal.  

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

I'm saying I wouldn't remove any more than necessary until I tried replacing the lifters with the crank, rods and pistons installed.  If it seems too difficult after making an attempt, remove it.


Lawrenceville, GA

Yes you can, plenty of room around the crank and rods, or if you can find KRW # 6500 ABC tool you can replace the lifters in the car or on the stand without removing the oil pan.

It can be done with a long armed magnet but is still difficult. I've seen people try to pass the magnet down through the lifter hole and bring them up that way. I would at minimum remove the crank. I couldn't be happier with this cam. It has a nice smooth idle with minimal supercharger surge. Starts great too. When you push on the gas it go's without lag. Great street blower cam in my book. 

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Rono, with the engine on a stand, it can be done with one of those small "super" magnets on a telescoping wand. There is a learning curve getting the magnet to land on the lifter. If I had to do this again I would use the magnet and not pull the crank. Why not give it a try before pulling the crank? Hope this helps, JEFF...................


64F100 57FAIRLANE500