Got it.  Had a small nick on inside of counter weight that when tightened did not allow cam to turn.  Once sanded off was able to get 3 on the back lash.  Book said 1 -12 with 6 ideal.  Does anyone know where to pick up the inner beveled spacers so that I can get to the ideal 6 backlash?  Thanks all for the help, appreciated

The only counterweight, on engines so equipped, is the fuel pump eccentric counterweight.  Most have a  spacer, instead of the counterweight.  That has nothing to do with the cam thrust.  They are items 6290.  What you need is a 6265 that is .006 thicker than 6269.




Lawrenceville, GA

" ... where to buy beveled spacers as I could not find any online ...thanks for responses"

JOHN MUMMERT offers new on his website.       

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Got it, there was a nick in the original counter weight that exposed a small nib of metal - once taken off got got spacing to 003 and all turns well.  Would like 006, so does anyone know where to buy beveled spacers as I could not find any online ...thanks for responses

I had a similar problem when I rebuilt my 292 engine last summer.  I installed an Isky 301333 cam in my engine with a Rollmaster timing set.  The 301333 cam has a little more lift and duration than the 301444.   After installing the cam I found I didn't have enough cam end play.  It's .suppose to be .005", so it's not much.  When I tightened everything up the engine would turn with a wrench, but it was obviously not right. The problem turned out to be the thrust washer.  It seems like there were a couple of different thickness Y-Block thrust washers.   I ended up taking the washers out of a good engine I had in my shop.  I installed the cam without the timing chain and checked the cam end play with a dial indicator and it was perfect.  It took me a week to figure all this out.   The engine has been running for a year now and all is good.  I have also seen Y-Blocks where the new cam bearings were too tight.  I had that problem once and had to scrape the bearings.

My guess is that the spacer was not transferred from the old cam to the hew one.  That's the one you put on the cam before the key is installed.  That traps the thrust plate between the front of the cam journal and the timing sprocket, locks it up tight.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I had the same problem. New build in a 56 F100.  New aftermarket dampener. I had the wrong front engine mount and the dampener was binding on the mount.
Took 3 weeks to spot.
stuey  

You don’t mention what timing chain set you are using.  If using the Rollmaster set with the nine key crankshaft gear, counting the twelve pins between the marks can get tricky.  Regardless of the timing set being used, the twelve pins between marks are counted on the oil filter side of the engine.  If it is a cam timing issue, removing the rocker arms may allow the engine to turn over again but the Isky E4 cam is typically not a problem with valve to piston clearance.  I'm with the others in that the cam to gear spacers may have been installed in the wrong order thus putting the camshaft in a bind with the cam thrust plate.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Before You closed up the Timing Cover it would have been a good Idea to turn it over manually and make sure everything was turning without binding. Sounds like there is a problem with Cam Thrust Plate Assembly. There is a Min/Max Spec for Camshaft End play.

  

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