The fuse to the flasher will cause all the problems you are having It is fed from the ignition switch.(AC screw, there are four, S. AM, C, and AC) Do your self a favor and purchase for less than $20 a laminated schematic of you car from www.ClassicCarWiring.com it's 11 x 17 and in color for all the stock wiring in your car. If you buy, and you can, the replacement kits for your car done in sections with the original color coded wires you only need to remove both seats and the carpeting to do the complete job. Yes it is a pain in the ass but doable even for a guy in his 70's.

Sounds like the spots, which are not stock, were haywired into one of the circuits.

In a 56 ford there is 1 fuse on the light switch with circuit breakers. this covers all interior lighting 
1 fuse to the flasher ... this covers your directional and rear lighting
1 for the the clock
1 for the heater switch,
1 30 amp breaker for the top (you don't have)
that's it.. there is none listed for the stock radio 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Reading the post I quoted from Dry Lakes Racer (darn auto correct, I meant “rewired” not “retired) I think the car is close to the way my bird was wired. The harness to the rear containing the items you mentioned in inside the car on the floor pan. Clips are welded, the jute padding and carpet goes over them in the passenger compartment and they are mostly under the mat in the trunk. They’ll be pretty much exposed at the tail lights themselves.

If they aren’t there, maybe auto correct was right, maybe he “retired” in the middle of “rewired”.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

What do you mean by this???  No wires to the back of the car??




54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

The headlights work....

The wires going to the rear include the L&R signal light, tail light, back-up light and fuel sending signal (total 5).  None reach their intended destination...

I have read the above post several times describing the routing of these rear wires.  Not clear if he is sometimes refering to inside the cab or under the floorpan.  We are still dazed and confused....

Thanks all

The Tail Lights and Brake Lights are powered from headlight Switch with no Fuses. The Backup Lights are controlled by Neutral Switch on Steering Column if Automatic. Power from Ignition Switch goes the Neutral Switch directly so thats easy to check. Or it may have been moved to Headlight Switch for Power when wiring was changed. Should be power to switch with Ignition on run Position. the Fuse on Headlight Switch is for Interior lights only. I think your Trouble could be related to Headlight Switch because Power for the Items not working start at Headlight Switch.

  

I believe  the Headlight Switch itself is a resetting Circuit Breaker for Headlights only.

  

IIRC, the fuse on the headlight switch is all the running/tail lights except the headlights. If the PO picked up the spotlights there, and both fuses are blown, I’d track that down. Does it look like the wiring was redone in some fashion? Most of the 50’s era cars I’ve worked on has failing insulation even under the dash. Take a close look.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Are You aware there is a Fuse on end of Headlight Switch? I don't have my Wiring Diagram handy but I will check in the AM for what it Powers.

  

After working all day today we found about 6 fuses total.  Had to remove the front seat so we could see under the dash.  Found one fuse that looked good but the continuity checker said was bad.  Replaced that and now the spotlights work, the radio works, but still no tail lights, brake lights, back up lights...  Yes, I know we are checking the ground connection....

Just guessing here, but if he said he “replaced the wires” that wouldn’t be the same as “retired”. I’m pretty sure the 56 car is much like the Thunderbird. Fuses inline here and there, one on the light switch, maybe even a self resetting circuit breaker under the dash.

So I’d start with the original wiring diagram. The ones in the manual are a pain, I stole this from the member listed.


“By DryLakesRacer 3 Months Ago   

My '56 had only 4 wires in that bundle. It came from behind the heater across the top center of the trans hump, it laid down beside the drive shaft tunnel on the drivers side as it came to the front seat, crossed over to the left side of the car under the left side rear passenger seat, thru the area behind the left side rear window , over the left rear wheel well and down to the left edge of the trunk held in with clips.

I did not disconnect this group when I removed my interior for paint . I removed it from the place in the car and rolled it up and attached it to a cable at the heater so the shop working on the car would not screw it up. When I put the car back together I removed the cloth loom protector and wrapped it with Scotch 33 electrical tape, put it back in the same clips, and have had no problems in 2 years

The first wire leaves the loom and goes to the gas tank level sender and the last 3 rear go back to the left rear tail light area where there are connectors. Each stop light has a wire and the rear tails and license plate share the other wire. I do not have a rear package tray speaker.

A company called "Classic Wiring" sells a laminated 11"x17" schematic of our cars with all connection points, wire colors, fuses, etc. and is a must for working on the electrics of our cars.... It's about $20”

My bird is wired with a modern fuse panel and marked wires. Also fusible links on the main feeds off the battery and alternator. I carry spares. But if I was still stock, I’d have the laminated schematic mentioned above. It should get you started. Make notes about what you find for the next time.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ