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By Jack Groat - 5 Years Ago
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I bought a '56 Crown Victoria a little over a year ago. The restoration was great paint and sheet metal wise. Playing with a spotlight it suddenly went out, like I blew a fuse. After that the radio, signal lights, wipers, gauges, brake lights, tail lights, and maybe a few more items I don't know about also does not work.
The previous owner said he redid every wire in the car. He did not make a schematic. I just spent 4-5 hours trying to find a blown fuse. I found 3 total and all were good.
The good news is it starts and runs and the horn works.
Anyone have some good suggestions on tracing wiring....
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By darrell - 5 Years Ago
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ground is the only thing i can think of
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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Sounds like a major wire came off or got broken. Do you have an after market fuse box or do you have the stock setup. If stock, check the box on the firewall.
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By Joe-JDC - 5 Years Ago
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Since you were playing with the spot light, I would check all those wires for connections first. Joe-JDC
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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Was the Spotlight Power provided from Ignition Switch or powered without using Ignition Switch for Power? Everything that's not working is powered through Ignition Switch by the sounds of it. Just wondered where Power for the Spotlight came from. Brake Lights and Tail Lights are originally direct Power not through Ignition Switch unless rewiring the Car changed that.
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By miker - 5 Years Ago
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Just guessing here, but if he said he “replaced the wires” that wouldn’t be the same as “retired”. I’m pretty sure the 56 car is much like the Thunderbird. Fuses inline here and there, one on the light switch, maybe even a self resetting circuit breaker under the dash.
So I’d start with the original wiring diagram. The ones in the manual are a pain, I stole this from the member listed.
“By DryLakesRacer 3 Months Ago
My '56 had only 4 wires in that bundle. It came from behind the heater across the top center of the trans hump, it laid down beside the drive shaft tunnel on the drivers side as it came to the front seat, crossed over to the left side of the car under the left side rear passenger seat, thru the area behind the left side rear window , over the left rear wheel well and down to the left edge of the trunk held in with clips.
I did not disconnect this group when I removed my interior for paint . I removed it from the place in the car and rolled it up and attached it to a cable at the heater so the shop working on the car would not screw it up. When I put the car back together I removed the cloth loom protector and wrapped it with Scotch 33 electrical tape, put it back in the same clips, and have had no problems in 2 years
The first wire leaves the loom and goes to the gas tank level sender and the last 3 rear go back to the left rear tail light area where there are connectors. Each stop light has a wire and the rear tails and license plate share the other wire. I do not have a rear package tray speaker.
A company called "Classic Wiring" sells a laminated 11"x17" schematic of our cars with all connection points, wire colors, fuses, etc. and is a must for working on the electrics of our cars.... It's about $20”
My bird is wired with a modern fuse panel and marked wires. Also fusible links on the main feeds off the battery and alternator. I carry spares. But if I was still stock, I’d have the laminated schematic mentioned above. It should get you started. Make notes about what you find for the next time.
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By Jack Groat - 5 Years Ago
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After working all day today we found about 6 fuses total. Had to remove the front seat so we could see under the dash. Found one fuse that looked good but the continuity checker said was bad. Replaced that and now the spotlights work, the radio works, but still no tail lights, brake lights, back up lights... Yes, I know we are checking the ground connection....
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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Are You aware there is a Fuse on end of Headlight Switch? I don't have my Wiring Diagram handy but I will check in the AM for what it Powers.
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By miker - 5 Years Ago
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IIRC, the fuse on the headlight switch is all the running/tail lights except the headlights. If the PO picked up the spotlights there, and both fuses are blown, I’d track that down. Does it look like the wiring was redone in some fashion? Most of the 50’s era cars I’ve worked on has failing insulation even under the dash. Take a close look.
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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I believe the Headlight Switch itself is a resetting Circuit Breaker for Headlights only.
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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The Tail Lights and Brake Lights are powered from headlight Switch with no Fuses. The Backup Lights are controlled by Neutral Switch on Steering Column if Automatic. Power from Ignition Switch goes the Neutral Switch directly so thats easy to check. Or it may have been moved to Headlight Switch for Power when wiring was changed. Should be power to switch with Ignition on run Position. the Fuse on Headlight Switch is for Interior lights only. I think your Trouble could be related to Headlight Switch because Power for the Items not working start at Headlight Switch.
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By Jack Groat - 5 Years Ago
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The headlights work....
The wires going to the rear include the L&R signal light, tail light, back-up light and fuel sending signal (total 5). None reach their intended destination...
I have read the above post several times describing the routing of these rear wires. Not clear if he is sometimes refering to inside the cab or under the floorpan. We are still dazed and confused....
Thanks all
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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What do you mean by this??? No wires to the back of the car??
Jack Groat (7/27/2019)
None reach their intended destination...
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By miker - 5 Years Ago
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Reading the post I quoted from Dry Lakes Racer (darn auto correct, I meant “rewired” not “retired) I think the car is close to the way my bird was wired. The harness to the rear containing the items you mentioned in inside the car on the floor pan. Clips are welded, the jute padding and carpet goes over them in the passenger compartment and they are mostly under the mat in the trunk. They’ll be pretty much exposed at the tail lights themselves.
If they aren’t there, maybe auto correct was right, maybe he “retired” in the middle of “rewired”.
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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The fuse to the flasher will cause all the problems you are having It is fed from the ignition switch.(AC screw, there are four, S. AM, C, and AC) Do your self a favor and purchase for less than $20 a laminated schematic of you car from www.ClassicCarWiring.com it's 11 x 17 and in color for all the stock wiring in your car. If you buy, and you can, the replacement kits for your car done in sections with the original color coded wires you only need to remove both seats and the carpeting to do the complete job. Yes it is a pain in the ass but doable even for a guy in his 70's.
Sounds like the spots, which are not stock, were haywired into one of the circuits.
In a 56 ford there is 1 fuse on the light switch with circuit breakers. this covers all interior lighting
1 fuse to the flasher ... this covers your directional and rear lighting
1 for the the clock
1 for the heater switch,
1 30 amp breaker for the top (you don't have)
that's it.. there is none listed for the stock radio
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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DryLakesRacer (7/28/2019)
The fuse to the flasher will cause all the problems you are having It is fed from the ignition switch.(AC screw, there are four, S. AM, C, and AC) Do your self a favor and purchase for less than $20 a laminated schematic of you car from www.ClassicCarWiring.com it's 11 x 17 and in color for all the stock wiring in your car. If you buy, and you can, the replacement kits for your car done in sections with the original color coded wires you only need to remove both seats and the carpeting to do the complete job. Yes it is a pain in the ass but doable even for a guy in his 70's. Sounds like the spots, which are not stock, were haywired into one of the circuits. In a 56 ford there is 1 fuse on the light switch with circuit breakers. this covers all interior lighting 1 fuse to the flasher ... this covers your directional and rear lighting 1 for the the clock 1 for the heater switch, 1 30 amp breaker for the top (you don't have) that's it.. there is none listed for the stock radio
Radio has inline Fuse. 5A for standard Radio. 7.5 A for T+C. Without a good Wiring Diagram You are flying Blind. JMO
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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For the radio, the classic wiring diagram doesn't show a fuse because it's with the radio wiring. They just show a connector the radio plugged into. That would handle it's light too. I do not know about all Ford wiring looms but this time I assume Ford had a connector ready for the radio to be added at the dealership. My radio even upgraded has a inline fuse and plugged into the original connector just up above the heater controls.
When I put my car back together from painting the fuse to the flasher caused me my biggest headache. It checked good but didn't make real good contact causing the problem what this gentleman is having
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By bergmanj - 5 Years Ago
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If I recall correctly, the radio dial/dash light is separately connected to the dash lighting circuit so that it's adjustable along with all the other dash lights by rotation of the headlight dash-control rheostat; it's not connected through the radio fuse wiring; that's a wholly separate connection.
Regards, JLB
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By CSPIDY - 5 Years Ago
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I had a parking light socket on my 57 that was shorted and none of the other lights parking or turn signal lights would work, the head light parking light switch has a resetting fuse as mentioned above. once I found that it all worked normal again
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By Jack Groat - 5 Years Ago
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MYSTERY SOLVED!!
A while back I replaced the old column shift 3-speed with a 5 speed Mustang. Had to cut a hole in the floor for the floor shifter.
It did occur to us that this COULD have severed an electrical line but we inspected it carefully and could see no wires in the hole. Well, after removing carpeting and insulation, lo and behold the WAS a wire there and it was totally cleanly cut. We are now splicing the wires. I think the search has lasted a month.
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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Good. Reminds Me of my own wasted Search. Last Year when I bought this Car I only received One Set of Keys. My first Stop should have been getting a Second Set of Keys Cut. I didn't. I was working under the Dash installing an Electric Wiper Motor. Using the ignition Key to verify Power Flow.Key in and out of the Ignition within Arms Reach. Long Story Short I misplaced the Keys. Tore the Garage Apart looking everywhere. Couldn't find them. Got replacement Ignition Switch and Cylinder. Changed the Trunk Lock. Guess where I found the Keys a Month ago? They fell between the Carpet and the Firewall and ended up at the Floor behind the Carpet. Only took a Year to find them.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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I'm surprised it took a year to find the keys. When I misplace something and go buy a replacement, I usually find the old one within an hour.
oldcarmark (8/16/2019)
Good. Reminds Me of my own wasted Search. Last Year when I bought this Car I only received One Set of Keys. My first Stop should have been getting a Second Set of Keys Cut. I didn't. I was working under the Dash installing an Electric Wiper Motor. Using the ignition Key to verify Power Flow.Key in and out of the Ignition within Arms Reach. Long Story Short I misplaced the Keys. Tore the Garage Apart looking everywhere. Couldn't find them. Got replacement Ignition Switch and Cylinder. Changed the Trunk Lock. Guess where I found the Keys a Month ago? They fell between the Carpet and the Firewall and ended up at the Floor behind the Carpet. Only took a Year to find them.
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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paul2748 (8/17/2019)
I'm surprised it took a year to find the keys. When I misplace something and go buy a replacement, I usually find the old one within an hour. oldcarmark (8/16/2019)
Good. Reminds Me of my own wasted Search. Last Year when I bought this Car I only received One Set of Keys. My first Stop should have been getting a Second Set of Keys Cut. I didn't. I was working under the Dash installing an Electric Wiper Motor. Using the ignition Key to verify Power Flow.Key in and out of the Ignition within Arms Reach. Long Story Short I misplaced the Keys. Tore the Garage Apart looking everywhere. Couldn't find them. Got replacement Ignition Switch and Cylinder. Changed the Trunk Lock. Guess where I found the Keys a Month ago? They fell between the Carpet and the Firewall and ended up at the Floor behind the Carpet. Only took a Year to find them.
I looked Everywhere. Pulled out Work Benches. Checked Garbage Cans. The whole nine Yards. Learned my Lesson. ALWAYS have 2 Sets of Keys.
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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I keep spare keys in my wallet, too. That way I can get into my vehicle if I lock the keys inside.
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By 1960fordf350 - 5 Years Ago
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A friend of mine used to keep a spare key in his taillight! My uncle used to keep one in his air cleaner. That wouldn't work on a vehicle with a hood latch inside though!
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