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Technical Questions from a New Y Block Owner!

Posted By Low-Blow 8 Months Ago
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Low-Blow
Posted 8 Months Ago
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I just did an introduction in the "This N That" section and am hoping that this is the correct section to pose the questions that I have. I just purchased a 292 Y Block and 3 Speed Transmission off of Craigslist. The guy told me that the engine was out of a 1962 F100. Because I am going to be putting this engine in my 1960 F100, and looking for a reliable driver, I decided to take it down to bare block and rebuild the engine. Some of the questions I have are below. Please feel free to answer any or all. I sincerely appreciate the feedback.

1. Block Casting Number is C2AE-C. With the research that I have done, I have concluded that the block is from a 1962 Ford truck. 
Am I correct in this conclusion?

2. Head Casting Number is C0AE. I have concluded that this signifies the heads are from a 1960. Am I correct to assume that they are from a 292 Ford? Because I also see where this casting number was used for 312 Mercury engines.

3. I took the block and crank to the machine shop yesterday to be checked out. Upon first look at the cylinder walls, the guy said that the cylinders will need to be bored. Assuming that the engine has never been overhauled, and is currently a standard bore, how much do I want to cut the bore? I'm looking to build a good street engine to cruise in my F100. Are there certain pistons that are more readily available? 

4. Cam question. I am going to replace the cam with a new one. What do you recommend that will give a nice lopey sound, but will not require me to do any additional head work?

5. What to replace with new? As long as they check out ok, I am going to use the stock crank and existing connecting rods. I am also going to replace the original exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe with a set of ram horn manifolds. I am still on the fence as far as intake manifold and carburetor. I'm not looking to spend a ton of money on this engine, but do like the idea of maybe going with a 4 barrel carburetor. Thoughts? Also, what should I expect to replace with new parts (water pump, oil pump, timing gears/chain, etc..)?

I am sure that there will be more questions to come, but I just wanted to get these out there for review. I have pictures that I can provide if there is something specific that you need to see. Thank you in advance!


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charliemccraney
Posted 8 Months Ago
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What the heads and block are from doesn't really matter all that much.  The C2 block should be correct for '62.  The heads were used on 292s as well.

For street use, bore the block only as much as necessary.  292 pistons are probably the most common and should be very easy to find.

The cam is tricky.  Given the difficulty of cam swaps, it is one component that you want to get right from the beginning.  The problem with a lopey cam is that it requires other complementary upgrades in order to work well.  You will need more compression, more carb, shorter gearing.  With a stock stroke and typical overbore of a 292, domed pistons will be required in order to make a lopey cam work.  Compression simply will not be high enough without them.  If you make a plan and stick to it, you can build the bottom end for it now and swap intakes and heads later, when money allows.  Without these other upgrades, it will sound good but performance will probably be quite disappointing.
If domed pistons, better heads, better intake and better gearing are not an option due to cost, then a copy of the standard 1957 cam or an Isky E4 or something similar should work well.  It will not have a lope but it will actually perform better, all else being equal.

The crank and rods are ok to reuse.  http://www.ford-y-block.com/ has had rods available new.  If they are currently available then it is the best way to go because the cost to refurbish used ones is very similar.
Dual exhaust is one of the best single upgrades you can make.
A 4 barrel is a good upgrade but may not be absolutely necessary depending on how you decide to build the engine.  It's also about a $600 minimum expenditure.
The water pump and oil pump can be new or rebuilt.  Timing chain and gears, absolutely, new.


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Florida_Phil
Posted 8 Months Ago
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I researched a lot of cams before making my choice. Like everyone, I wanted a nice sound through the tailpipes but I didn't want to kill the low and mid range torque.  I decided to run an Isky 301333 cam.  My 292 is .060 over with flat top pistons and "G" heads.  My intake is a stock iron 1957 Ford intake with a Holley 465 4V.   My car is a 1955 Thunderbird with a 4.11 gears and a manual O/D transmission. 

I think this cam is perfect for a street car.  It has a noticeable lope idling at 800 rpm.  Isky says you can use it with an automatic and a stock converter.  I am using a double roller timing chain and gears with tubular pushrods.   Low end torque is good.  Mid range is fantastic.  I never twist my engine over 5,500 rpm.

My ignition is a stock 1957 distributor with a Pertronix unit and  coil.   My cylinder block needed to be bored, decked and the main saddles align honed.  The engine was also balanced.   I couldn't be happier with what I have. 

I'll post a video so you can hear the cam.  Here you go.


Ted
Posted 8 Months Ago
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First off, Welcome to the site.
 
C2AE-C blocks were first introduced late in 1961 but they were for the 1962 model cars and trucks.  The C2AE-C block castings continued to be used in vehicles through the 1964 model year.  After this, the C2AE-C blocks continued to be cast and machined through the end of 1967 for warranty, marine, and industrial purposes so these blocks are reasonably common.  As a side note, 312 engines produced in 1962 also used the C2AE-C blocks and these were also being cast/machined through the end of 1967.
 
Deciphering the date code located on the right side of your block (located close to the deck) will help to identify exactly what the actual casting date was.  Looking at your connecting rods can also help shed some light on the date assuming the rods are original to the block.  The early C2AE-C blocks had the EBU rods but sometime in 1962, the connecting rods switched to the ‘C2AE’ forgings.
 
To my knowledge, no C2AE-C blocks came originally equipped with “C0AE” heads so that points to at least the heads not being original to the block.  Another clue will be if the head gaskets are steel shim or composition.  Steel shim was the original head gasket type so if the engine now has composition, there’s been some work in that area somewhere in the past for sure.  It will be interesting to see what you find in regards to the camshaft.  The best information I have has the 1962 engines having the grooved center journal camshaft while the 1963 and 1964 pickup/truck engines had the cross-drilled center journal camshafts.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Low-Blow
Posted 8 Months Ago
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Thank you for the input so far. One thing that I noticed when I was tearing down the engine was how clean the valley was. There was absolutely no sludge at all in there. I hope that is a sign that the previous owner was diligent in changing the oil regularly!

Charlie - I appreciate your feedback, as well as the link to Mummert's site. I have been looking over the parts there pretty regularly, but do not want to purchase anything until I have confirmed that the block is good to go.

Phil - Thank you for your comments. I love the sound of your '55 Thunderbird (as well as the look). What a beautiful car!!

Ted - Your information was very helpful. The gaskets on the engine were indeed steel shim. Also, I do have the cam with the grooved center journal. There are pics of the cam, as well as other engine parts below.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3a86b8b5-6534-4761-9d63-0f3a.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/497ba99c-f95e-4d0b-98f9-89c0.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/02ff410c-5993-4864-ace0-28bb.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/987deb15-d902-4e5b-9628-ee6b.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/0838e47a-7388-4b52-9c3f-f9a9.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/d40469d4-f900-4a5c-9499-2dd7.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/bf74fead-5dab-407a-b9d9-0a79.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/f9d1b87a-a882-4ce2-ab70-defc.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/df764750-67c9-43d3-88ab-e3cc.jpg


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Low-Blow
Posted 7 Months Ago
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I called the machine shop today and found out that the block was already bored to .030. So, they cleaned it up at .060. The crankshaft is currently at the grinder, and should be back early next week. I also dropped the heads off today at the machine shop. I have posted some pictures of the block below. Once I determine the journal sizes on the camshaft, I am going to begin ordering parts. I talked to a guy at Mummert's today and am leaning toward the 57+ cam shaft. I will be putting together a list of other parts that will be needed and hopefully get them on order soon. Back to the question on the carburetor. For an occasional driver, would the stock intake and 2 barrel carburetor be sufficient for this engine? I am definitely going to go with the ram horn manifolds and run dual exhaust.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/00deb0ec-fbf1-4646-8d31-68a1.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/e0dc8ae0-d022-4e5d-8e88-de11.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/26843e94-e25c-4a86-9294-39ae.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/df0224bb-2841-4d4e-a23b-82a5.jpg


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57RancheroJim
Posted 7 Months Ago
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A 2 barrel is fine on a daily driver. I have a 4 barrel like most people on my daily driver but the secondaries are rarely used. I just did a 500 mile trip and only opened the secondaries once while passing a semi.
2721955meteor
Posted 7 Months Ago
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ON THE DUAL EXHAUST ,YOU ONLY NEED 1 RAMS HORN FOR THE PASENGER SIDE. USE THE OLD PAS  SIDE ON THE DRIVER SID AS THE CURVED OUT LET ALOWES A EASEY WAY AROUND THE STEERING BOX. JUST NEED TO MAKE UP A BLOCKER  WHER THE CROS OVER HOLE IS.
 i know a frend who has 1 rams horn like new for 100 us. if you are interested email me ct1940@shaw.ca. cliff tate 
Low-Blow
Posted 7 Months Ago
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Update! I finally ordered my parts from Mummert's yesterday. Some of the upgrades that I chose were: Hardened #3 Cam Bearing, 57+ Camshaft, I Beam Rods, Larger Valves, and Ram Horn Manifolds. I am excited to get the parts in and to get started on the build!

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darrell
Posted 7 Months Ago
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how is that hard # 3 cam bearing working out.


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