Technical Questions from a New Y Block Owner!


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By Low-Blow - 5 Years Ago
I just did an introduction in the "This N That" section and am hoping that this is the correct section to pose the questions that I have. I just purchased a 292 Y Block and 3 Speed Transmission off of Craigslist. The guy told me that the engine was out of a 1962 F100. Because I am going to be putting this engine in my 1960 F100, and looking for a reliable driver, I decided to take it down to bare block and rebuild the engine. Some of the questions I have are below. Please feel free to answer any or all. I sincerely appreciate the feedback.

1. Block Casting Number is C2AE-C. With the research that I have done, I have concluded that the block is from a 1962 Ford truck. 
Am I correct in this conclusion?

2. Head Casting Number is C0AE. I have concluded that this signifies the heads are from a 1960. Am I correct to assume that they are from a 292 Ford? Because I also see where this casting number was used for 312 Mercury engines.

3. I took the block and crank to the machine shop yesterday to be checked out. Upon first look at the cylinder walls, the guy said that the cylinders will need to be bored. Assuming that the engine has never been overhauled, and is currently a standard bore, how much do I want to cut the bore? I'm looking to build a good street engine to cruise in my F100. Are there certain pistons that are more readily available? 

4. Cam question. I am going to replace the cam with a new one. What do you recommend that will give a nice lopey sound, but will not require me to do any additional head work?

5. What to replace with new? As long as they check out ok, I am going to use the stock crank and existing connecting rods. I am also going to replace the original exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe with a set of ram horn manifolds. I am still on the fence as far as intake manifold and carburetor. I'm not looking to spend a ton of money on this engine, but do like the idea of maybe going with a 4 barrel carburetor. Thoughts? Also, what should I expect to replace with new parts (water pump, oil pump, timing gears/chain, etc..)?

I am sure that there will be more questions to come, but I just wanted to get these out there for review. I have pictures that I can provide if there is something specific that you need to see. Thank you in advance!
By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
What the heads and block are from doesn't really matter all that much.  The C2 block should be correct for '62.  The heads were used on 292s as well.

For street use, bore the block only as much as necessary.  292 pistons are probably the most common and should be very easy to find.

The cam is tricky.  Given the difficulty of cam swaps, it is one component that you want to get right from the beginning.  The problem with a lopey cam is that it requires other complementary upgrades in order to work well.  You will need more compression, more carb, shorter gearing.  With a stock stroke and typical overbore of a 292, domed pistons will be required in order to make a lopey cam work.  Compression simply will not be high enough without them.  If you make a plan and stick to it, you can build the bottom end for it now and swap intakes and heads later, when money allows.  Without these other upgrades, it will sound good but performance will probably be quite disappointing.
If domed pistons, better heads, better intake and better gearing are not an option due to cost, then a copy of the standard 1957 cam or an Isky E4 or something similar should work well.  It will not have a lope but it will actually perform better, all else being equal.

The crank and rods are ok to reuse.  http://www.ford-y-block.com/ has had rods available new.  If they are currently available then it is the best way to go because the cost to refurbish used ones is very similar.
Dual exhaust is one of the best single upgrades you can make.
A 4 barrel is a good upgrade but may not be absolutely necessary depending on how you decide to build the engine.  It's also about a $600 minimum expenditure.
The water pump and oil pump can be new or rebuilt.  Timing chain and gears, absolutely, new.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I researched a lot of cams before making my choice. Like everyone, I wanted a nice sound through the tailpipes but I didn't want to kill the low and mid range torque.  I decided to run an Isky 301333 cam.  My 292 is .060 over with flat top pistons and "G" heads.  My intake is a stock iron 1957 Ford intake with a Holley 465 4V.   My car is a 1955 Thunderbird with a 4.11 gears and a manual O/D transmission. 

I think this cam is perfect for a street car.  It has a noticeable lope idling at 800 rpm.  Isky says you can use it with an automatic and a stock converter.  I am using a double roller timing chain and gears with tubular pushrods.   Low end torque is good.  Mid range is fantastic.  I never twist my engine over 5,500 rpm.

My ignition is a stock 1957 distributor with a Pertronix unit and  coil.   My cylinder block needed to be bored, decked and the main saddles align honed.  The engine was also balanced.   I couldn't be happier with what I have. 

I'll post a video so you can hear the cam.  Here you go.


By Ted - 5 Years Ago
First off, Welcome to the site.
 
C2AE-C blocks were first introduced late in 1961 but they were for the 1962 model cars and trucks.  The C2AE-C block castings continued to be used in vehicles through the 1964 model year.  After this, the C2AE-C blocks continued to be cast and machined through the end of 1967 for warranty, marine, and industrial purposes so these blocks are reasonably common.  As a side note, 312 engines produced in 1962 also used the C2AE-C blocks and these were also being cast/machined through the end of 1967.
 
Deciphering the date code located on the right side of your block (located close to the deck) will help to identify exactly what the actual casting date was.  Looking at your connecting rods can also help shed some light on the date assuming the rods are original to the block.  The early C2AE-C blocks had the EBU rods but sometime in 1962, the connecting rods switched to the ‘C2AE’ forgings.
 
To my knowledge, no C2AE-C blocks came originally equipped with “C0AE” heads so that points to at least the heads not being original to the block.  Another clue will be if the head gaskets are steel shim or composition.  Steel shim was the original head gasket type so if the engine now has composition, there’s been some work in that area somewhere in the past for sure.  It will be interesting to see what you find in regards to the camshaft.  The best information I have has the 1962 engines having the grooved center journal camshaft while the 1963 and 1964 pickup/truck engines had the cross-drilled center journal camshafts.
By Low-Blow - 5 Years Ago
Thank you for the input so far. One thing that I noticed when I was tearing down the engine was how clean the valley was. There was absolutely no sludge at all in there. I hope that is a sign that the previous owner was diligent in changing the oil regularly!

Charlie - I appreciate your feedback, as well as the link to Mummert's site. I have been looking over the parts there pretty regularly, but do not want to purchase anything until I have confirmed that the block is good to go.

Phil - Thank you for your comments. I love the sound of your '55 Thunderbird (as well as the look). What a beautiful car!!

Ted - Your information was very helpful. The gaskets on the engine were indeed steel shim. Also, I do have the cam with the grooved center journal. There are pics of the cam, as well as other engine parts below.

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By Low-Blow - 5 Years Ago
I called the machine shop today and found out that the block was already bored to .030. So, they cleaned it up at .060. The crankshaft is currently at the grinder, and should be back early next week. I also dropped the heads off today at the machine shop. I have posted some pictures of the block below. Once I determine the journal sizes on the camshaft, I am going to begin ordering parts. I talked to a guy at Mummert's today and am leaning toward the 57+ cam shaft. I will be putting together a list of other parts that will be needed and hopefully get them on order soon. Back to the question on the carburetor. For an occasional driver, would the stock intake and 2 barrel carburetor be sufficient for this engine? I am definitely going to go with the ram horn manifolds and run dual exhaust.

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By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
A 2 barrel is fine on a daily driver. I have a 4 barrel like most people on my daily driver but the secondaries are rarely used. I just did a 500 mile trip and only opened the secondaries once while passing a semi.
By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
ON THE DUAL EXHAUST ,YOU ONLY NEED 1 RAMS HORN FOR THE PASENGER SIDE. USE THE OLD PAS  SIDE ON THE DRIVER SID AS THE CURVED OUT LET ALOWES A EASEY WAY AROUND THE STEERING BOX. JUST NEED TO MAKE UP A BLOCKER  WHER THE CROS OVER HOLE IS.
 i know a frend who has 1 rams horn like new for 100 us. if you are interested email me ct1940@shaw.ca. cliff tate 
By Low-Blow - 5 Years Ago
Update! I finally ordered my parts from Mummert's yesterday. Some of the upgrades that I chose were: Hardened #3 Cam Bearing, 57+ Camshaft, I Beam Rods, Larger Valves, and Ram Horn Manifolds. I am excited to get the parts in and to get started on the build!
By darrell - 5 Years Ago
how is that hard # 3 cam bearing working out.
By Low-Blow - 5 Years Ago
I have not received the parts yet. 
By Low-Blow - 5 Years Ago
Well, it's been a month or so since my last post. I received all the parts from Mummert's and got the block and the heads back from the machine shop. I was taking the block out of the plastic bag tonight to start chasing all the holes and I noticed something odd looking. I hope that I am over reacting, because it appears that the casting is broken on the back. I know that it came back from the machine shop like that, because if it had broken during transit, the piece would still be in the bag. Also, it looks like the block has an even cleaning, indicating that it is not a fresh break. I went back and looked at the pictures that I had of the block prior to sending it to the machine shop. The only two that I have are of it on the engine stand, where it appears that the piece is missing. But, I can't tell for sure. I have a lot of money invested in this block. Please tell me that it is ok to build! 


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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
Unfortunately, it is broken.  The break is pictured in pictures early in this thread.

My thought is that it will be ok for your build but you should get other opinions.  My biggest concern is the dowel for locating the bellhousing.  It needs to stay securely in place.  If it doesn't, the bellhousing can be out of alignment with the crankshaft centerline and that can cause clutch  or transmission problems.
By Cliff - 5 Years Ago
Yes it will run, however I would find a junk block and cut a chunk out and have it repaired, easiest way (and cheapest) is to cut the block with a hack saw and square it with files, then cut the patch to match (about a 2 hour job), find a good welder (ARC Welder) that knows how to weld cast iron with out heating the whole block, it's not hard just a pain in the ???, looks like the block was dropped,
By Low-Blow - 5 Years Ago
I just went out and looked at the bellhousing, and it was definitely already broke. The one bellhousing bolt hole has grease all packed in it. It should have been clean if I would have removed a bolt from that hole. The dowel pin is in pretty tight. You can see that 2/3 of it is still covered with cast. I am not making a ton of horsepower with this engine, as it will just be for a cruiser. I'm wondering if it will be ok once everything is aligned and tightened back down. Then again, I have a lot of money in machine work to cut corners at this point. The machine shop I used is very reputable and builds a ton of big race engines. I'm wondering if they didn't think it was that big of deal?
By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
Makes me wonder why the machine shop didn't ask if you wanted to continue work on a broken block first? At this point I would use it.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
It's unfortunate that the block was dropped. Hopefully no other damage was done.  Those pins in the block locate the bell housing, There are large bolts as well. You have a lot of money invested in that block.  Test fit the bell housing on the block and make sure it will align correctly. Try using JB Weld to "glue" the pin into position.  If you clean all the surfaces, JB Weld should hold up for your purpose and you can make it look OK.  It's not a perfect fix, but it's worth a try.  The alternative is to source another bock and start over.
By darrell - 5 Years Ago
i wouldnt worry about it.good to go.
By Ted - 5 Years Ago
I don't see where you mention if you are going back with the three speed transmission that came with the engine or not.  If you are doing an automatic transmission, I don't see a problem with that missing piece on the bell-housing flange.  If you are going with a standard transmission, that missing piece is where the clutch pivot arm bracket bolts and that could prove to be a problem when bolting up the stock clutch linkage parts to the block.
By Low-Blow - 5 Years Ago
Ted (8/9/2019)
I don't see where you mention if you are going back with the three speed transmission that came with the engine or not.  If you are doing an automatic transmission, I don't see a problem with that missing piece on the bell-housing flange.  If you are going with a standard transmission, that missing piece is where the clutch pivot arm bracket bolts and that could prove to be a problem when bolting up the stock clutch linkage parts to the block.


Thanks, Ted. I never thought about that. I was planning on going back with the 3 speed transmission so that I could utilize my existing column shift.

By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
Ted's referring to the clutch, not shifter linkage.

The good news is that a '60 F100 uses a hydraulic clutch with a slave cylinder that mounts to the bellhousing.  So it should be alright.