The seal is recessed into the timing cover.  It would hit the bracket first, then the timing cover and it would be making a whole lot of noise so hopefully you check before it has any chance of reaching the seal although it really wouldn't matter all that much by that point.


Lawrenceville, GA

Because of a moved timing mark I just had my damper and additional pulleys off. It was very easy. I removed the radiator, the center bolt. and used a multitask puller from Harbor Freight. While I was there I took off the steady rest. I had the Damper Dr. rebuild the damper and had it back in a total of 4 days since I live in Calif. Putting it on was in the reverse using a longer fine threaded cap screw I already had and using washers until I could use the stock one. Additional pulleys bolted on then torqued it all. To keep the engine from turning over when using the torque wrench, I turned the engine until #1 was coming to TDC and stuffed in some cotton clothes line rope in the spark plug hole. It pulled out ez after backing the engine using the same hex on the crank.
Front seal didn't leak before or now.... Good Luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Here’s a picture of a couple of Y dampers.  Which one is on your engine?

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I have the damper on the right.  Cant find the timing marks yet.  Probably will find them when I get the damper off and under a microscope. 
I cant get a real good picture of a damper to show me how much the "ring" has slid back off of the rubber.  My guess is the ring should have about 1/2 to 5/8 inch of steel showing....My ring shows no steel and the ring is completely back up against the engine mount.  Hard to explain but that leads me to believe the ring has slid back and it stopped when it hit the engine mount.  Better pictures would convince me.  The real answer would tell me PULL THE DAMPER OR NOT. 

The answer is PULL the Damper.  It has to be repaired or you will have more trouble in the future.  As far as the timing marks, they are on the lip on the closest puley and may be very hard to see.  I had the same problem with the ring.  I found the marks, though very faint and took a chisel and deepened them enough to see but not enough to mar the pulley.  Then I painted the groves white.  I send the damper to Damper Doctor.  No complaints





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Damper is off.  I found a small V in the edge of the pulley, but no other marks.  Now its rebuild time.....HAS anyone heard of DALE MFG., located in Oregon.  His website is detailed about his work.  He is reasonable and seems thorough. He explains everything.  I like what he says and does.  He has a long list of dampers he has repaired.  Give me your thoughts.  

I suspect if you take a wire brush, you'll find some stamped numbers and timing marks in the area 108" clockwise from the hub key slot.  I’m not familiar with Dale Manufacturing in regards to harmonic damper repair.  If you use them, let us know what you think.  I’m currently using Damper Dudes in California for damper repair but always interested in other options.
 
http://www.damperdudes.net//index.php

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I have the same damper as you do in my 1955 Thunderbird.  I couldn't find any other marks on my damper either, even after media blasting.  I only have one small line marking TDC. 

I didn't have a line,  just a very small "V" notched into the first pulley closest to the damper ring.  I'll have to recheck it after I reinstall it. I'll have to figure out how to establish 6 degrees before TDC.

I have found 2 places that rebuild 292 Damper/Balancers.  Dale manufacturing in Oregon and Winslow manufacturing in Wendell North Carolina. FWIW.