292 Damper Pulley


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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
After procrastinating for 6 weeks on taking off the pulley bolt,  I lubed it weekly......well it came out practically by hand.  NOW for the damper pulley.  Special tool from Casco...is that the only option?   Standard 2 jaw pulley remover doesn't seem to work.  ALSO what is this thing called a "sleeve".  Is it behind the damper?  According to shop manual there is a ford tool for that, also.  BTW I don't see where the balance ring has slid back (no rubber showing)  but it is against the front engine mount.  I would love to meet the guys who worked on this engine before me!  Any ideas and thoughts are welcomed.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I built my own puller with some bar stock I had laying around the shop.  It worked once.  I gave up and bought the Casco puller.  It's the way to go.  Buy the reinstall tool too.  The part numbers are  TL7 and TL10. 

There is no sleeve behind a YBlock TBird Damper.  There is an oil slinger that sits against the lower timing gear.  The pink stuff is assembly lube.  The balance ring should not be touching the engine mount.  Mine is at least 3/4" away.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9a879a83-9d1b-4c56-bc40-6ef1.jpg
By darrell - 5 Years Ago
to reinstall the pulley i use a longer bolt pull it in until you can use the short one.
By Ted - 5 Years Ago
If the damper ring is rubbing against the mount, it’s either a slipped damper ring or the incorrect mount.  Do you have a picture of the removed damper?  The only sleeve I'm aware of for your application would be a repair sleeve for the damper to compensate for a 'wear' groove in the damper seal surface where the seal rides.
By MoonShadow - 5 Years Ago
I have both of the tools part numbers are  TL7 and TL10. Bought them as a mistake some years ago. I'd let them go for $75 plus shipping from New Hampshire. Send your address and I will figure the shipping.
By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
What keeps the damper pulley (complete assembly) from sliding back towards the seal in the block.  The bolt and washer keep it from sliding toward the radiator, but what keeps it from sliding back?
By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
It can't slide back, it bottoms out on the oil slinger and timing gear.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Sounds to me like you have mismatched parts.  Ted is correct.  You either have the wrong engine mount or the wrong damper.
By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
Thanks, I have new damper pulley tools on the way from Casco.
By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
Isn't the timing case crank seal the first thing the pulley would encounter on its way backward?  The gear is inside the timing case cover so I think the pulley would hit the seal first. I don't have the pulley off yet, I ordered the puller and installer this morning. 
By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
The seal is recessed into the timing cover.  It would hit the bracket first, then the timing cover and it would be making a whole lot of noise so hopefully you check before it has any chance of reaching the seal although it really wouldn't matter all that much by that point.
By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
Because of a moved timing mark I just had my damper and additional pulleys off. It was very easy. I removed the radiator, the center bolt. and used a multitask puller from Harbor Freight. While I was there I took off the steady rest. I had the Damper Dr. rebuild the damper and had it back in a total of 4 days since I live in Calif. Putting it on was in the reverse using a longer fine threaded cap screw I already had and using washers until I could use the stock one. Additional pulleys bolted on then torqued it all. To keep the engine from turning over when using the torque wrench, I turned the engine until #1 was coming to TDC and stuffed in some cotton clothes line rope in the spark plug hole. It pulled out ez after backing the engine using the same hex on the crank.
Front seal didn't leak before or now.... Good Luck
By Ted - 5 Years Ago
55charliebird (4/4/2019)
After procrastinating for 6 weeks on taking off the pulley bolt,  I lubed it weekly......well it came out practically by hand.  NOW for the damper pulley.  Special tool from Casco...is that the only option?   Standard 2 jaw pulley remover doesn't seem to work.  ALSO what is this thing called a "sleeve".  Is it behind the damper?  According to shop manual there is a ford tool for that, also.  BTW I don't see where the balance ring has slid back (no rubber showing)  but it is against the front engine mount.  I would love to meet the guys who worked on this engine before me!  Any ideas and thoughts are welcomed.

Here’s a picture of a couple of Y dampers.  Which one is on your engine?

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/7d8ce201-a091-4046-a41c-d7dc.jpg 
By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
I have the damper on the right.  Cant find the timing marks yet.  Probably will find them when I get the damper off and under a microscope. 
I cant get a real good picture of a damper to show me how much the "ring" has slid back off of the rubber.  My guess is the ring should have about 1/2 to 5/8 inch of steel showing....My ring shows no steel and the ring is completely back up against the engine mount.  Hard to explain but that leads me to believe the ring has slid back and it stopped when it hit the engine mount.  Better pictures would convince me.  The real answer would tell me PULL THE DAMPER OR NOT. 
By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
The answer is PULL the Damper.  It has to be repaired or you will have more trouble in the future.  As far as the timing marks, they are on the lip on the closest puley and may be very hard to see.  I had the same problem with the ring.  I found the marks, though very faint and took a chisel and deepened them enough to see but not enough to mar the pulley.  Then I painted the groves white.  I send the damper to Damper Doctor.  No complaints

55charliebird (4/7/2019)
I have the damper on the right.  Cant find the timing marks yet.  Probably will find them when I get the damper off and under a microscope. 
I cant get a real good picture of a damper to show me how much the "ring" has slid back off of the rubber.  My guess is the ring should have about 1/2 to 5/8 inch of steel showing....My ring shows no steel and the ring is completely back up against the engine mount.  Hard to explain but that leads me to believe the ring has slid back and it stopped when it hit the engine mount.  Better pictures would convince me.  The real answer would tell me PULL THE DAMPER OR NOT. 


By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
Damper is off.  I found a small V in the edge of the pulley, but no other marks.  Now its rebuild time.....HAS anyone heard of DALE MFG., located in Oregon.  His website is detailed about his work.  He is reasonable and seems thorough. He explains everything.  I like what he says and does.  He has a long list of dampers he has repaired.  Give me your thoughts.  
By Ted - 5 Years Ago
55charliebird (4/17/2019)
Damper is off.  I found a small V in the edge of the pulley, but no other marks.  Now its rebuild time.....HAS anyone heard of DALE MFG., located in Oregon.  His website is detailed about his work.  He is reasonable and seems thorough. He explains everything.  I like what he says and does.  He has a long list of dampers he has repaired.  Give me your thoughts. 

I suspect if you take a wire brush, you'll find some stamped numbers and timing marks in the area 108" clockwise from the hub key slot.  I’m not familiar with Dale Manufacturing in regards to harmonic damper repair.  If you use them, let us know what you think.  I’m currently using Damper Dudes in California for damper repair but always interested in other options.
 
http://www.damperdudes.net//index.php
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I have the same damper as you do in my 1955 Thunderbird.  I couldn't find any other marks on my damper either, even after media blasting.  I only have one small line marking TDC. 
By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
I didn't have a line,  just a very small "V" notched into the first pulley closest to the damper ring.  I'll have to recheck it after I reinstall it. I'll have to figure out how to establish 6 degrees before TDC.
By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
I have found 2 places that rebuild 292 Damper/Balancers.  Dale manufacturing in Oregon and Winslow manufacturing in Wendell North Carolina. FWIW.
By BamaBob - 5 Years Ago
55charliebird (4/18/2019)
I have found 2 places that rebuild 292 Damper/Balancers.  Dale manufacturing in Oregon and Winslow manufacturing in Wendell North Carolina. FWIW.


Has anybody used either or both of these rebuilders? If so, please comment on your results. I'm planning to have one rebuilt and would like to have references to go by. Also maybe Damper Doc and Damper Dude comments. Thanks! As always, good advice is much appreciated!
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I have used the Damper Doctor a number of times over the years.  They always did a good job at a reasonable price. I haven't used them in a while.
By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
Used Damper Doc for my Bird.  Everything seems to be ok
By Ted - 5 Years Ago
BamaBob (4/20/2019)
55charliebird (4/18/2019)
I have found 2 places that rebuild 292 Damper/Balancers.  Dale manufacturing in Oregon and Winslow manufacturing in Wendell North Carolina. FWIW.
Has anybody used either or both of these rebuilders? If so, please comment on your results. I'm planning to have one rebuilt and would like to have references to go by. Also maybe Damper Doc and Damper Dude comments. Thanks! As always, good advice is much appreciated!

I was having quality issues with the last few dampers I had rebuilt by Damper Doctor.  Possible causes could be Damper Doctor just got too big and too many employees? I’ve since switched to Damper Dudes and pleased with both their work and turn-around times so far.
By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
Looks like the Power Bond dampers are available again. I remember good things said about them on this site but no personal experience with this product. Summit racing...................
By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
My damper goes in the mail tomorrow morning to Winslow Mfg. Co, located in Wendell N.C.  I had a phone conversation with the owner and I liked what he told me.  They have been in business many many years rebuilding vintage car dampers.  Great price and turn around is quick.  I had a good comfortable feeling talking to the owner. I'll let you know when it returns. 
By Lord Gaga - 5 Years Ago
Ted (4/21/2019)
BamaBob (4/20/2019)
55charliebird (4/18/2019)
I have found 2 places that rebuild 292 Damper/Balancers.  Dale manufacturing in Oregon and Winslow manufacturing in Wendell North Carolina. FWIW.
Has anybody used either or both of these rebuilders? If so, please comment on your results. I'm planning to have one rebuilt and would like to have references to go by. Also maybe Damper Doc and Damper Dude comments. Thanks! As always, good advice is much appreciated!

I was having quality issues with the last few dampers I had rebuilt by Damper Doctor.  Possible causes could be Damper Doctor just got too big and too many employees? I’ve since switched to Damper Dudes and pleased with both their work and turn-around times so far.

I agree. THE DUDES ABIDE!