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charliemccraney
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Group: Moderators
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'54s have a lot of unique parts which makes it more difficult / expensive to do even a basic rebuild. '55 on is more or less interchangeable so most parts are easier to find. Because of the difficulty, a '54 engine is best for a '54 vehicle that needs to be correct. For '55, if no major work if required then it could be worth using but say you need something major like a block or crank, then it may make more sense to simply step up to a 292. As far as power goes, about 1.4hp / ci is probably a reasonable maximum for a street hot rod so that makes a 256 a little over 350hp although the bigger brothers make it easier to achieve that level of performance with more street friendly package. So the bottom line, as you might expect, is that it boils down to what you want.
Lawrenceville, GA
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Starlifter
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So if I understand all the information the 256, although production began in 54 changes were made over the remaining few years of production. If this is true there should be a date code on the block. I saw two numbers so far. Right side aft was 49 B. Behind fly wheel was E6.
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charliemccraney
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Group: Moderators
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They all have date codes. The 49B looks like a date code - that's usually within a casting feature that looks like an oval plate with a screw head on each end. 49B is September 2 1954, which is probably plausible for a '55 model year block.
Lawrenceville, GA
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Ted
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Group: Administrators
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Starlifter (1/24/2019)
Ok other than having a 100% correct engine or something like that was the engine in it when I bought it and it runs ok, what would be a reason to keep a 239 or 256? I’m not asking to disparage anyone or specific engine I just keep reading for individuals and some publications “you don’t want either of these engines”. Is this mainly because of early changes in design which effects part availablity both original and aftermarket? Could it be based on past hearsay? A good number of people can’t leave an engine alone and will always look for ways to improve a factory design. Trust me I have a 429 Cadillac engine. Pretty impressive HP and torque numbers. Virtually no performance parts available. Everyone says don’t waste your time/money on it, step up to a 500 cubic inch. So after all this rambling is there a problem with the 256 other than it doesn’t have the performance potential as it’s bigger cousins? I’ m not a particular fan of the ’54 engines simply due to the one year only parts that were being used. Some of those specific parts includes camshafts, camshaft bearings, oil pumps, oil pump drives, distributors, timing covers, water pumps, fuel pumps, and damper pulleys. Any 1955 or newer Y has most of the parts at least being interchangeable so all of these are good candidates for an economical rebuild. In defense of those early engines, don’t discount those smaller engines for just being good daily drivers. I had a ’54 Victoria I drove for years with a 239 Y-Block and it was good solid transportation with more than enough power to get out of its own way. At the same time, I had a ’56 Customline Victoria with a 406/428/427TP that filled my need for speed. I currently have a stock ’50 Ford with a 239 Flattie and at its rated 100 HP, it’s fun to drive and very torquey from a start.
  Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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Starlifter
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So September 54 falls in the either way category. I’ll try to get some more numbers, pictures and/or measurements this weekend. Besides numbers off the intake what else should I concentrate on? Easiest to hardest. Things like oil pump has three bolts instead of four etc. i don’t mind pulling it completely apart just don’t want to do it if not necessary. If I’m going to use a Y block I’m my 56 F100 you know I’m going to want it look and sound good and pull out of the gas station like it’s got some power at least for the first 150 feet.
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charliemccraney
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Group: Moderators
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As far as determining what the block is, if the heads are in fact 272 heads, then odds are that it is a '55 or newer block as it takes significant work to make later heads work on an early block. Unless someone knows precisely when the cutoff was for the end of '54 model year casting and the beginning of '55 model year casting, the only way you could tell is by removing the heads.to compare the mating surfaces and look for signs of modification. Most everything that you can see on the assembled engine can be swapped so those numbers and dates may not help to answer the question.
Lawrenceville, GA
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paul2748
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Like Ted, I had a 54 Ford which I used a number of years as a daily driver and it was a very good running car. Memory is a little dim on it now, but I don't remember it giving me any major trouble. It did have a replacement engine when I got it (used I believe) so I can't say for sure it was a 239. My first car was 49 Tudor (flathead 239, 100HP) that also was a good running car but it rusted out on me.
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ
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Starlifter
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carl
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That head has a later model temperature sending unit.,also I have a few 272,292 cranks if you need one.Where are you located Carl
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Starlifter
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Group: Forum Members
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Located in Byron Georgia which is right in the middle of the state just below Macon.
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