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Y Block won’t fire.

Posted By 55F100RON 6 Years Ago
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55F100RON
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

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Last Active: 6 Years Ago
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I’m hoping that’s the case if I can get it started. On the down side this truck never saw any road time just a shop delivery truck back in the day. When I pulled the valve covers there was quite a buildup of sludge. When you couple that with several freeze plugs that need to be replaced, I’m not optimistic that the engine is to promising. I would put a 302/auto in before I would rebuild it.
PF Arcand
Posted 6 Years Ago
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No one on this site is likely to encourage replacing the Y-block with a Ford small block.. Although it could be worse, an SBC.  If everything is reasonably correct it should fire even with the somewhat low compression readings. Because it's been parked for a very long time, there could be various issues, including completely useless old fuel & why was it parked in the 1st place??  After 40 yrs, did you pre oil the cylinders or valve train before attempting to start it? Have you pulled the valve covers & made sure everything seems to be operational etc..   Good luck..


Paul
Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Check the camshaft timing.  Low compression can result if the camshaft is retarded.  Sounds like the timing chain has jumped a tooth or two.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/avatars/johnf.jpg
55F100RON
Posted 6 Years Ago
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The first thing I did when I got home was disconnect the fuel line and hook up my temp tank. So fuel is good to go carb is spraying. All valve train is in place and operational. I’ve got to get a timing light. That’s a piece of the puzzle that needs to be settled.
MplsMike
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Hi 55F100RON,

Anyone who reads my posts knows I am a feeble mechanic at best, so take what I write with a grain of salt and good intentions.

When I tried to wake up my ‘56 Parklane after 35 years of sleep, I thought I had done everything right to fire it up. All I got was a turning engine and no pop. My brother-in-law, a real mechanic, came over and fixed me up. Turns out I had set the point gap so poorly that nothing was happening.


MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN
charliemccraney
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Another good thing to get is a shop manual.  It will take some more of the guess work out with the timing marks.  Even if you do end up swapping to a different engine, the manual will still be good for most other aspects of the truck.

Usually, if there is only one mark on the damper or pulley, then the pointer will have multiple marks.  So my thought is either that is not the mark on the pulley or it's the wrong pulley or it is the wrong pointer.  The manual should answer that.


Lawrenceville, GA
Tedster
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I realize this isn't your first rodeo, but did we get a warm & fuzzy on the distributor timing? The first reply in this thread talked about that. It is very common for the steel outer damper ring to slip off axis and bugger the timing mark index.

It's also quite common for people to stab the distributor wrong. Yet another dependable mistake previous owners make is the plug wires themselves are not installed in the correct firing order. Taken together it makes for a head scratcher. In this situation it is best to assume nothing, and check everything.

As mentioned verifying exact TDC on the damper at #1 piston compression with a piston stop is a good plan when the history of an engine is unknown, verify that the "0" mark on the damper is truly indexed to this, and, that the distributor rotor points to the #1 terminal position. Finally verify that both #1 cylinder valves are closed at TDC compression, #6 cylinder valves will be at overlap. This verifies camshaft is in phase.

It would also be a good idea to check valve adjustment. As you know, these are solid lifter engines. "Someone" in the past may have tightened the valve lash to .001" or whatever to quiet things down way back when, leading to a valve or two (or all of them) hanging open & little to no compression. Set them all to .020" for now.
Pete 55Tbird
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Ron, can you restate some basic info so we all start from the same page?
OK you say compression is low 65/70 is that right?
You have a source of new gas connected and it is reaching the accelerator pump in the carb. Yes/No
With the valve covers off you SEE the rocker arms go up and down? Yes/No
You see a GOOD BLUE spark at the end of the plug wires? Yes/No
You tried start fuel ether ? Yes/No
There is no indication of any combustion from inside the combustion chamber? Yes/No
Please remember I don`t even know what color your truck is so the MORE INFO you provide
the better you might get a good clue to solve WHAT IS YOUR PROBLEM not ours. Pete
55F100RON
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

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Compression is at 65/70. New gas, ethanol free, from hanging temp tank. All rockers performing as they should. Yes on spark. Yes on ether. Not so much as a little wisp of smoke. I should have a timing light this PM or first thing tomorrow.
55F100RON
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

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Mike, Thanks for comment. This has a pertronix conversion so there are no points. Also a flamethrower coil so it hurts you if you get hit.


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