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By 55F100RON - 6 Years Ago
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My 55 F-100 has been sitting for 42 years in the back of a climate controlled shop. Running gear is all original V8 manual. I saw this truck run before it was parked. But, it was several weeks before it was parked. Ive been trying to buy it for 40 of those 42 years so I’ve layed eyes on it every month or so that whole time. Since I’ve had it home, I’ve converted it to 12v neg ground. It now has Pertronix flamethrower ignition. I have put my hand over the carb and have great vacuum. I’ve poured gas down the carb and have it blow out the spark plug holes when I crank it over. I pulled the number 1 plug out and layed it on the manifold with plug wire attached. I then put my finger in the plug hole and cranked it over. The plug fired, extreme spark flamethrower remember, as the compression blew my finger off the hole. I followed this by pulling each plug and performing the same test. I realize that’s not an exact timing science there but close enough to have some kind of reaction. I have moved the distributor from full advance to full retard slowly while cranking the engine. So what am I getting at. I cannot get so much as a sputter, spit, kickback or backfire out of this engine. I’m 72 so this ain’t my first rodeo. Ive had everything from 3’ of fire out the carburetor to a kickback so hard it broke the snout off the starter. I know I’ll have to eventually change the plugs and wires but I’ve never had one not do something especially when it seems all the ingediates are there. Is it possible the plugs (all eight) are not grounding in the holes? Is it possible for a plug to fire in the air and not in the cylinder? But all eight of them? It’s almost like the wires are one hole off one way or the other but why. The truck was pulled into the back of the shop and not touched for 42 years. The owner died a few months back and I never got around to asking him why he parked it. I assumed since he bought another F-100 that he just liked it better now I’m beginning to wonder. Thanks for any help.
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By Joe-JDC - 6 Years Ago
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Since you say it kicks your finger out with compression, I would establish that it is timed correctly before going further. Remove passenger side valve cover, remove #1 spark plug(right front as sitting in driver's seat), and turn the engine over until #1 piston comes up on compression, and spits your finger out. Check the timing marks on the damper to see if they are close to TDC. Remove the distributer cap and see where the rotor is pointing. If the timing pointer is around 10-12* BTDC, the rotor should be pointed at the leading edge of #1 spark plug wire terminal. If it is not, the distributor can be turned until it does, unless it is off a significant amount, which will require removal and re-installing it to match the #1 spark plug terminal. If it is timed correctly, both intake and exhaust valves will be closed with the piston at TDC(feeler gage will slide under the rocker arms). Reinstall the valve cover and give it a try. Joe-JDC
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By 55F100RON - 6 Years Ago
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I’ll give that a go this PM. Thanks
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By 55F100RON - 6 Years Ago
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With the compression blowing my finger out, plug firing, both #1 cylinder rockers loose (valves closed), the pointer is 1”-1 1/4” from what I assume is TDC mark on edge of pulley. Narrow edge closest to pointer. Would that be 30 Deg or so?
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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if you have brakes tow it.
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By MoonShadow - 6 Years Ago
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Any progress? I wanted to mention checking the firing order. Often people will either try to put number one on the drivers front another is missing the counter clockwise rotation and wire it backwards.
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By 55F100RON - 6 Years Ago
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I’ve done that on occasion. I don’t have brakes this time so I’ve got to do it the right way.
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By 55F100RON - 6 Years Ago
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So I’ve dug a little deeper. It’s firing a few degrees before TDC. I set the mark right on the pointer and stuck a straw in the plug hole and best I can tell piston iscat TDC. Not sure of cam durations, but it appears both valves are staying closed on compression stroke approx 220-230 deg. Compression is not a great number, around 65-70#. I should still get something out of the engine. I’m going to finish putting new plugs in it tomorrow. I think I’ve got a universal wire set but with everything firing not convinced that will help.
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By Sandbird - 6 Years Ago
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Pretty low compression, have you tried a shot of starting fluid?
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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Squirt some oil in the cylinders to coat the cylinder walls and see if compression comes up.
While the numbers are low, they are not really surprising, given the circumstances. Assuming that nothing is really wrong with the engine, then compression should come up if you can get it started and running for a while.
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By 55F100RON - 6 Years Ago
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I’m hoping that’s the case if I can get it started. On the down side this truck never saw any road time just a shop delivery truck back in the day. When I pulled the valve covers there was quite a buildup of sludge. When you couple that with several freeze plugs that need to be replaced, I’m not optimistic that the engine is to promising. I would put a 302/auto in before I would rebuild it.
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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No one on this site is likely to encourage replacing the Y-block with a Ford small block.. Although it could be worse, an SBC. If everything is reasonably correct it should fire even with the somewhat low compression readings. Because it's been parked for a very long time, there could be various issues, including completely useless old fuel & why was it parked in the 1st place?? After 40 yrs, did you pre oil the cylinders or valve train before attempting to start it? Have you pulled the valve covers & made sure everything seems to be operational etc.. Good luck..
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 6 Years Ago
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Check the camshaft timing. Low compression can result if the camshaft is retarded. Sounds like the timing chain has jumped a tooth or two.
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By 55F100RON - 6 Years Ago
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The first thing I did when I got home was disconnect the fuel line and hook up my temp tank. So fuel is good to go carb is spraying. All valve train is in place and operational. I’ve got to get a timing light. That’s a piece of the puzzle that needs to be settled.
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By MplsMike - 6 Years Ago
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Hi 55F100RON,
Anyone who reads my posts knows I am a feeble mechanic at best, so take what I write with a grain of salt and good intentions.
When I tried to wake up my ‘56 Parklane after 35 years of sleep, I thought I had done everything right to fire it up. All I got was a turning engine and no pop. My brother-in-law, a real mechanic, came over and fixed me up. Turns out I had set the point gap so poorly that nothing was happening.
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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Another good thing to get is a shop manual. It will take some more of the guess work out with the timing marks. Even if you do end up swapping to a different engine, the manual will still be good for most other aspects of the truck.
Usually, if there is only one mark on the damper or pulley, then the pointer will have multiple marks. So my thought is either that is not the mark on the pulley or it's the wrong pulley or it is the wrong pointer. The manual should answer that.
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By Tedster - 6 Years Ago
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I realize this isn't your first rodeo, but did we get a warm & fuzzy on the distributor timing? The first reply in this thread talked about that. It is very common for the steel outer damper ring to slip off axis and bugger the timing mark index.
It's also quite common for people to stab the distributor wrong. Yet another dependable mistake previous owners make is the plug wires themselves are not installed in the correct firing order. Taken together it makes for a head scratcher. In this situation it is best to assume nothing, and check everything.
As mentioned verifying exact TDC on the damper at #1 piston compression with a piston stop is a good plan when the history of an engine is unknown, verify that the "0" mark on the damper is truly indexed to this, and, that the distributor rotor points to the #1 terminal position. Finally verify that both #1 cylinder valves are closed at TDC compression, #6 cylinder valves will be at overlap. This verifies camshaft is in phase.
It would also be a good idea to check valve adjustment. As you know, these are solid lifter engines. "Someone" in the past may have tightened the valve lash to .001" or whatever to quiet things down way back when, leading to a valve or two (or all of them) hanging open & little to no compression. Set them all to .020" for now.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 6 Years Ago
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Ron, can you restate some basic info so we all start from the same page?
OK you say compression is low 65/70 is that right?
You have a source of new gas connected and it is reaching the accelerator pump in the carb. Yes/No
With the valve covers off you SEE the rocker arms go up and down? Yes/No
You see a GOOD BLUE spark at the end of the plug wires? Yes/No
You tried start fuel ether ? Yes/No
There is no indication of any combustion from inside the combustion chamber? Yes/No
Please remember I don`t even know what color your truck is so the MORE INFO you provide
the better you might get a good clue to solve WHAT IS YOUR PROBLEM not ours. Pete
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By 55F100RON - 6 Years Ago
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Compression is at 65/70. New gas, ethanol free, from hanging temp tank. All rockers performing as they should. Yes on spark. Yes on ether. Not so much as a little wisp of smoke. I should have a timing light this PM or first thing tomorrow.
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By 55F100RON - 6 Years Ago
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Mike, Thanks for comment. This has a pertronix conversion so there are no points. Also a flamethrower coil so it hurts you if you get hit.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 6 Years Ago
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Ron with the low compression numbers you are at or below the ragged edge of an engine not to fire. Cold will make it worse. A more volatile
fuel such as ether is your only hope. Pete
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By Robin272 - 6 Years Ago
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You never mentioned the color on the spark. Blue like thunder ore yellow like headlights ?
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