Hello I am in the process of assembling 1956 292 , just wondering if there is a coating or protective finish I might be able to put inside the cover to prevent corrosion in the waterpump area. Maybe I worry too much .

Antifreeze should have the necessary protective additives.


Lawrenceville, GA

If you don't use anti-freeze, there are anti-rust additives available at your local parts store.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

If you get it really clean GE Glypal insulating paint is probably the best. I do agree with others that today's coolant will do an adequate job and will not flake off.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

rust is not the issue,CAVITATION  is the real culprit,charley idea is the right approach antifreeze. if you remove the therm and look most likely being eroded. those engines that grew old in the arias that don't have cold  have these issues.ther are additives other than  antifreeze but problem best addressed with a good quality any frees. the newer alum. heads and blocks will really have  issues as they get older. tho non will live on like ys.  cat and cummins dealers have a 2 part product that worked well to address results of erosion on  affected arias

It all boils down to electrolysis and the need to keep coolant fresh, especially in an engine that has both iron and alum components.

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Yblocks do not have alum. other than pistons. modern research  has debuted electronics,erosion to cast components is caused by water turning sharp corners as well as colliding with cylinder walls at time of combustion. the use of good quality antifreeze has adaptive that reduces the erosion,the other cause is water pump cavitation(removing  bypass or restricting same. those in arias that do not want to use antifreeze there is additives to limit erosion(see your local cummins or cat dealer that have it as well as a way to check the strength.   i recently had a 292 core from calafornia, front cover eaten threw where water enters engine. as well purchased 4v series    from eBay(ca the it came from , badly eroded at therm aria.. like previous post if you are running a alum. rad they are in need of any freeze or  you will have a short life. this info came from the cat dealer i worked forFOR30 years)same info that confirmed rotela t is for modern diesel engines

The last line of the last post" Rotella t is good for modern Diesel engines" is it also good for 1956 y blocks ? Forgive my ignorance

it's useable but the detergent package in diesel oils may be too harsh for gasoline engines over the long term. I used it for a couple of change cycles in my '55 Merc. It turned black very quickly so I'm guessing it broke down a lot of deposits. Another thing to consider is diesel oil formulations have changed recently to accommodate the use of emission controls found on modern diesels, including catalytic converters. The amount of zinc and phosphorus has been reduced just as in gas engine oils. Flat tappet engines like y-blocks need a pretty high zinc/phosphorus content. I think our moderator may be of similar opinion. Hopefully he'll chime in on this.

NO  FOR ROLLER CAMS AND LOW SULPHER DEISEL