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By 55 GLASS TOP - 6 Years Ago
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Hello I am in the process of assembling 1956 292 , just wondering if there is a coating or protective finish I might be able to put inside the cover to prevent corrosion in the waterpump area. Maybe I worry too much .
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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Antifreeze should have the necessary protective additives.
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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If you don't use anti-freeze, there are anti-rust additives available at your local parts store.
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By DryLakesRacer - 6 Years Ago
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If you get it really clean GE Glypal insulating paint is probably the best. I do agree with others that today's coolant will do an adequate job and will not flake off.
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By 2721955meteor - 6 Years Ago
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rust is not the issue,CAVITATION is the real culprit,charley idea is the right approach antifreeze. if you remove the therm and look most likely being eroded. those engines that grew old in the arias that don't have cold have these issues.ther are additives other than antifreeze but problem best addressed with a good quality any frees. the newer alum. heads and blocks will really have issues as they get older. tho non will live on like ys. cat and cummins dealers have a 2 part product that worked well to address results of erosion on affected arias
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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It all boils down to electrolysis and the need to keep coolant fresh, especially in an engine that has both iron and alum components.
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By 2721955meteor - 6 Years Ago
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Yblocks do not have alum. other than pistons. modern research has debuted electronics,erosion to cast components is caused by water turning sharp corners as well as colliding with cylinder walls at time of combustion. the use of good quality antifreeze has adaptive that reduces the erosion,the other cause is water pump cavitation(removing bypass or restricting same. those in arias that do not want to use antifreeze there is additives to limit erosion(see your local cummins or cat dealer that have it as well as a way to check the strength. i recently had a 292 core from calafornia, front cover eaten threw where water enters engine. as well purchased 4v series from eBay(ca the it came from , badly eroded at therm aria.. like previous post if you are running a alum. rad they are in need of any freeze or you will have a short life. this info came from the cat dealer i worked forFOR30 years)same info that confirmed rotela t is for modern diesel engines
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By 55 GLASS TOP - 6 Years Ago
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The last line of the last post" Rotella t is good for modern Diesel engines" is it also good for 1956 y blocks ? Forgive my ignorance
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By Dobie - 6 Years Ago
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55 GLASS TOP (11/26/2018)
The last line of the last post" Rotella t is good for modern Diesel engines" is it also good for 1956 y blocks ? Forgive my ignorance
it's useable but the detergent package in diesel oils may be too harsh for gasoline engines over the long term. I used it for a couple of change cycles in my '55 Merc. It turned black very quickly so I'm guessing it broke down a lot of deposits. Another thing to consider is diesel oil formulations have changed recently to accommodate the use of emission controls found on modern diesels, including catalytic converters. The amount of zinc and phosphorus has been reduced just as in gas engine oils. Flat tappet engines like y-blocks need a pretty high zinc/phosphorus content. I think our moderator may be of similar opinion. Hopefully he'll chime in on this.
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By 2721955meteor - 6 Years Ago
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55 GLASS TOP (11/26/2018)
The last line of the last post" Rotella t is good for modern Diesel engines" is it also good for 1956 y blocks ? Forgive my ignorance
NO FOR ROLLER CAMS AND LOW SULPHER DEISEL
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By Loon - 6 Years Ago
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This article shows a casting flaw found in some timing chain covers and suggest how to correct it.
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By 2721955meteor - 6 Years Ago
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if you are not using antifreeze year around, then go to a truck repair and they will sell you a additive that will eliminate cavitation damage,or go to cummins or cat dealer. diesel engines ,as they live longer need additives even with antifreeze. the front cover i spoke of while back was not from a bird.,as well you will find cylender wall erosion when you rebuild and run into water at rebore.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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I think (occasionally) that diesel engine coolant cavitation and coolant electrolysis are getting confused here. The damage shown on the front cover is from coolant corrosion, it's not being serviced on a needed schedule. The coolant goes acidic (anti-corrosion package becomes nill) and carries resulting sediments blasting away at wherever coolant flow is diverted,
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By 55 GLASS TOP - 6 Years Ago
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How long do you think it takes for the coolant to lose it effective properties ?
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By 2721955meteor - 6 Years Ago
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1 year,but there is a tester you can buy that will tell one the conditioner is depleted. the front cover showed is probably eaten out where the water splits to each bank.. the other spot is the therm aria in the intake manifold.. we never see this hear as any of the cars hear that are running will have any freez, if just for storage.. fortunately Y s had lots of cast iron and could stand lots of cavitation
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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"How long do you think it takes for the coolant to lose it effective properties ?"
In a properly maintained system using GREEN COOLANT, every two years flush and fill with a 50/50 mixture.
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By 1960fordf350 - 6 Years Ago
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Most big rig shops sell test strips. They come in a little bottle. Just like a test kit for a pool. Dip it in the antifreeze, let it change color and compare it to the readings on the side of the bottle. It'll tell you how acidic the antifreeze is. Usually 50 strips in a bottle. More than I'll probably use in my lifetime.
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