I'd like to clean the sludge out of the bottom of my oil pan and need to drop the pan.  I don't know for sure if there is sludge but I want to make sure and clean if needed.   I have a Ford shop manual and have done everything it mentions-  all cap screws and 4 nuts removed, pickup tube nut at pump suction loosened (that end of the tube is free), nut loosened on the other end of the tube at the pan and #5 cylinder at TDC.  The pan is loose and free from the four studs where the nuts fasten but will not come out.  The bottom of the pan is contacting the chassis cross member- if the pan could come down a little further it would probably come out if it wasn't for the cross member.  I hate to put the pan back on with the old gasket-  the pan is really not far enough down for me to remove the old gasket.  Anybody have any experience with oil pan removal on a car like this?    Thanks!

Turn the Engine over by Hand until #1 is at TDC. That puts the Crank Throw in the up Position. Right now that is blocking Pan removal. You can also undo Motor Mounts from Frame and raise the Engine and put blocks in the Mounts to give a few more Inches if You still find it Tight.The front Anti Sway Bar can also be a Pain if U can't quite get the Pan out. I ended up taking it off although I never raised the Engine which might have been enouugh.

  

OK  I'll give those things a try.  Thanks for the help!

I thought it was no. 6 TDC ?  its a bit of a wiggle but you will get it and youre doing the right thing by checking for sludge etc , you can do your screen as well. 
Check your pan for being straight. just use contact cement to glue the gasket to the pan when re-installing, put a bit of [white] grease on the top of the gasket and some non hardening around the areas that will meet the split in the timing cover  and rear . Dont over tighten and that means the jamb nut too! 



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I found an old Post that said #1 at TDC. Is  #1 correct? Anyone know?

  

brings back some memories i remember laying on my back when i was 16 taking the base of a 56 merc.didnt know anything about turning the motor over but it came right of so guess i got lucky.

My 1956 Ford manual says #5 TDC. and I was able to remove the pan coming forward under the steady rest. The only problem I had was the steady rest bolts. I did not put the bolts back on when I replaced the pan. I took the bolts up from he bottom an did not put nuts on them. just left them in as guides

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Brings back Memories of laying on my Back taking the Pan off my 56 To fix rear Main Leak. I was 61 not 16.and that was only a Couple of Years ago.Get's Old Quickly. LOL!!!

  

While the pan is off use a socket and ball peen hammer to flatten the bolt holes in the flange. They are most likely dimpled in. Using the socket for support tap on the bottom side of the hole. Even if they pop out the other way they will renew the clamping area and not damage the new gasket.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I finally got the oil pan out. I really appreciate everyone's suggestions and help.  I loosened the nuts on the engine mounts, the bolts on the driveshaft collar just behind the transmission, the steady rest ground cable and the one bolt under the steady rest. I was able to put a 6" or so long 2x4 under the steady rest and on top of the steady rest support and let the engine back down on the wood.  I tried to get the pan out without raising the engine with #1 cylinder at TDC and then #5 cylinder at TDC without success.

The oil pan had about 3/8 of an inch of sludge in the bottom and the screen, although open, was dirty too.  The crankshaft and timing chain have a coating of sludge on them- not too bad but not very clean either.  I will gunk and pressure wash these areas.  I had my valve covers off about 2 years ago and the valve trains were very clean so I was surprised to see the crankshaft/timing chain not nearly as clean- 40,000 miles on the engine.  Does this engine have any high heat issues (hot spots) that would cause the oil to sludge up like this?