Rotella also changed their oil to lower the Sulphur emissions. I bought a few cases years ago but have used them up now. I think they may still offer a higher Sulphur version but I'm not sure what it is. On Ted's recommendation for my new(est) engine I'm running Valvoline Racing oil 20-50. To me Ted is the shortcut to an answer without research. Thank you Ted for doing it for me!

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

rotela t is designed for newer diesel engines that have roller cams and use low sulphur fuel along with emission controls.
on the 5galon pails used in canada they state not for gas engines especially flat tappet. reason is it results early cam lobe wear.
but if the guys at the coffee shop say its ok must be ok. Rotella t is a excellent oil if used in modern diesel engines

Ted Eaton has mentioned a few times that he does not recommend Rotella or any diesel oil.  I notice that he seems to go with 10-40 Valvoline conventional in the engines he builds.based on his articles in Y-Block Magazine


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

When the 56 was built multiple viscosity oils were not readily available. So we ran one weight for summer and another for winter. In the fall we changed the thermostat and the oil as part of the winter prep. Lots of the things we take for granted now are "new stuff". It makes our lives easier.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

The tag on the inside of the glove box stated 20-20W as the correct oil. I had been using 10-30 and a Wix filter for the first 6 years I've owned my 56. I've now gone to 5-20 and have seen a marked improvement of oil under the rocker arm covers. I do add 1/2 bottle of Lucas Stabilzer with added ZDDP that's not supposed to separate. I do not know if any revisions were made to the center cam bearing feed or not, but I do like the lighter oil. I drive about 2000 miles a year exclusively in town on the weekends and change oil once a year. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I know a lot of guys use diesel motor oil for the zinc/phosphorus content but be sure to research and find the proper one. Refiners have been lowering the zinc/phosphorus in diesel oils, too, since late model diesel engines have catalytic converters. Also, I'm concerned that the detergent package in diesel oil may be too harsh for gas engines over the long term. I used it a few times in my Merc after I bought the car. It turned black very quickly so I'm guessing it dissolved a lot of deposits, I use a conventional oil for high mileage engines and add a bottle of STP when I change it. So far so good.

Its not Mineral Oil. Conventional Oil used in many Diesel Engines . It has additives not found in most Conventional Oil. Walmart Sells it for One Example.

  

The Rotella mineral oils seem to be used by people who take care of their cars/tractors etc. so  I'll try that for the '56.  I'll also get the tractor transmission oil for the transmission and stay with the hypoid on the rear end.  Thanks!

I use Rotella-T 15w40. Designed for the Flat Tappet Type Engines. Others will offer up their Preferences.

  

Ditto on the previous comments about synthetic oils as most should be avoided on the older flat tappet equipped engines.  With flat tappet camshafts, you need an engine oil with sufficient shear properties to assist the rotation of the lifters on the lobes.  For this reason, always use oil with at least 30W in its weight classification.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)