Brings back Memories of laying on my Back taking the Pan off my 56 To fix rear Main Leak. I was 61 not 16.and that was only a Couple of Years ago.Get's Old Quickly. LOL!!!

  

My 1956 Ford manual says #5 TDC. and I was able to remove the pan coming forward under the steady rest. The only problem I had was the steady rest bolts. I did not put the bolts back on when I replaced the pan. I took the bolts up from he bottom an did not put nuts on them. just left them in as guides

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

brings back some memories i remember laying on my back when i was 16 taking the base of a 56 merc.didnt know anything about turning the motor over but it came right of so guess i got lucky.

I found an old Post that said #1 at TDC. Is  #1 correct? Anyone know?

  

I thought it was no. 6 TDC ?  its a bit of a wiggle but you will get it and youre doing the right thing by checking for sludge etc , you can do your screen as well. 
Check your pan for being straight. just use contact cement to glue the gasket to the pan when re-installing, put a bit of [white] grease on the top of the gasket and some non hardening around the areas that will meet the split in the timing cover  and rear . Dont over tighten and that means the jamb nut too! 



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

OK  I'll give those things a try.  Thanks for the help!

Turn the Engine over by Hand until #1 is at TDC. That puts the Crank Throw in the up Position. Right now that is blocking Pan removal. You can also undo Motor Mounts from Frame and raise the Engine and put blocks in the Mounts to give a few more Inches if You still find it Tight.The front Anti Sway Bar can also be a Pain if U can't quite get the Pan out. I ended up taking it off although I never raised the Engine which might have been enouugh.

  

I'd like to clean the sludge out of the bottom of my oil pan and need to drop the pan.  I don't know for sure if there is sludge but I want to make sure and clean if needed.   I have a Ford shop manual and have done everything it mentions-  all cap screws and 4 nuts removed, pickup tube nut at pump suction loosened (that end of the tube is free), nut loosened on the other end of the tube at the pan and #5 cylinder at TDC.  The pan is loose and free from the four studs where the nuts fasten but will not come out.  The bottom of the pan is contacting the chassis cross member- if the pan could come down a little further it would probably come out if it wasn't for the cross member.  I hate to put the pan back on with the old gasket-  the pan is really not far enough down for me to remove the old gasket.  Anybody have any experience with oil pan removal on a car like this?    Thanks!