On the camshaft attaching parts picture, its parts #6265 (cam thrust washer) and #6269 (cam thrust plate) that dictate the correct amount of camshaft end play.  The difference in measurements on these two parts will determine the exact amount of cam end play.  Be aware that the cam thrust washer is not keyed and has a chamfer on one side only.  The chamfer goes towards the rear or faces the camshaft.  The cam thrust washer is placed on the camshaft before installing the woodruff key in the camshaft snout.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thank you.  If washer #6265 is installed backwards, wouldn't it make the cam end play less?  Could be my problem?

Installing the thrust washer with the chamfer facing forward can increase the camshaft end play assuming there is a radius at the base of the camshaft snout, not reduce it.  The reason for the chamfer on the thrust washer is so that the radius at the snout to cam front face can be compensated for.  Having no radius on the camshaft snout makes it more prone to breaking or snapping off.  Some aftermarket camshafts may not have that radius at the snout at which point it would technically not make a difference which way the thrust washer was installed.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I definitely have a problem here and I'm not sure what it is.   I removed the balancer, front cover, gears, timing chain and thrust plate with it's round washer.  The washer that fits into the thrust plate was installed correctly with the beveled edge toward to cam. I slotted the thrust plate, reinstalled it and torqued the bolts that hold it to the block. The rear freeze plug is installed correctly. I installed the timing gears and chain as in the shop manual.  I then installed the washers and fuel pump eccentric as in the picture.  Everything rotates freely until I torque down the cam bolt.  This puts a bind on the rotating assembly that I can feel and I have no detectable cam end play. I'm think I may have the following issue. This is from an Internet assembly article.

It appears that Ford used two different thrust washer thicknesses and cam plates. With the wrong combination there will be no camshaft endplay and failure is certain. Ensure at least 0.004-inch camplay endplay during assembly.

Where can I get these parts?  Any ideas?

Your lower picture does not show the thrust washer so I’ll assume it’s still sitting on the camshaft.  You will need to mic both the thrust washer and the thrust plate.  The thrust washer should be approximately 0.005” thicker than the thrust plate.  This will be your camshaft end play.  If your measurements do not get this, then the appropriate part can be machined so you have the correct difference in thicknesses.  A belt sander and a light touch or feel can do this.
 
Check also that the camshaft is sitting at least 0.015” behind the front face of the block when pushed all the way back before installing the thrust plate.  If the camshaft is not sitting behind the front face of the block, you have an issue with the rear cam plug being too far forward or in.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Will do.   My motor is made up of parts from two different engines. My original engine is a 1955 292.  The other engine is a 1957 272.  As these engines get older and parts become scarce, this is going to be a problem. I suspect the thrust washer and thrust plate that is in engine now is from the 1955 engine and is thicker.  The cam and timing chain are made to work with the later parts.   I'll figure this out and post what I find.  It's a good thing I addressed it on the engine stand.  I'm sure I would have destroyed the engine if I had run it that way.  That's a lesson I don't want to learn.

If the spacer and plate both came from the '55 and neither is worn or damaged then clearance should be good as the two pieces would match.  The cam and timing chain should work with either set of parts.


Lawrenceville, GA

This issue has been resolved.  The engine that came with my car when I bought it had a lot of questionable issues. The thrust washer next to the cam fit very tightly into the thrust plate.  So tight that I had to force it in.  When the cam bolt was torqued down the cam assembly bound up.  You could turn the engine over, but it didn't feel right.  The cam freeze plug was installed correctly.

I removed the washer and plate from my bone stock 1957 272 and installed them in my engine.  The last person to touch that engine was the factory 61 years ago.  I could clearly see the beveled inside edge on the thrust washer and there was clearance between the washer and the plate.  That is the way I remembered it was suppose to be.  I notched the thrust plate and put everything together without the timing chain and the cam end play was perfect.  I reinstalled the timing chain and torqued everything down.  It is nearly impossible to check the cam end play with the roller timing chain installed as it is very tight. I am confident it is adequate.

There is a lesson to learn here.  These engine are very old.  Who knows who's been working on them or what has been done to them along the way?  Shade tree mechanics are plentiful.  Don't assume because you took it apart that way, it is right.  Thanks for all the help!!

You should be able to check the end play with the chain installed.  Use a screw driver or small pry bar to gently move it.  If you measured the thickness of the washer and plate and they were in spec, then it should be good.  You can also check with only the sprocket, without the chain installed, before final assembly.


Lawrenceville, GA

I installed all the components without the timing chain, tightened the cam bolt and the end play was perfect.  The roller timing chain and gears are new with zero slack.  I hate prying on things. When I adjusted the valves the engine turns freely by hand with no binds.