This question could have had its own post rather than be buried in another thread.  Per the 1957 service manual, if the total chain deflection exceeds ½”, then replace the timing set.  The service manual goes into detail on how to insure that the chain is tight on one side or fully loaded so that the ‘loose’ side can be measured for deflection.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Well that's just it there's no slop in the rotor movement. I've read conflicting info on how to measure chain deflection, whether under tension or on the slack side.

"...noticed the slack side of the chain is loosey goosey. What's the deal on that?"

Stretched timing chain.

If you turn the balancer one way to take up it's slack and then reverse rotation while watching the dist rotor to where it begins to move, you can gauge about how far it is stretched in degrees. 

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Hope this isn't considered a "hijack" of the thread, what do you guys consider excessive wear or play in the timing chain itself? Have checked for excessive backlash by moving crankshaft clockwise and back and distributor rotor moves immediately. But I changed out a fuel pump the other day, and noticed the slack side of the chain is loosey goosey. What's the deal on that?

My thanks to everyone who responded, today I used lots of heat and two pry bars and it came right off. Now I can get busy with the digital caliper. thanks again to all!  Ed

I ditto Kultulz. In 100% of the Y blocks I have disassembled I had to use the exact same puller for the cam timing gear. The crank gear was always more loose and slid on its snout.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

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Thanks Oldcarmark,Ted and Larry Short for all your advice! I think I will start with the heat and use two pry bars. If that doesn't work, i'll do Ted's method. I don't know about the cam until I get it out and measure it.

I just had the same problem putting the cam back in my dragster. I don't like beating anything on. What I did was polished the inside of the gear with fine crocus paper until it would slide on. I put the crocus around a old pushrod, taped it on and used a drill to spin it (old school I guess)  Also polished the end of the cam a little. It took some time of trial and error but gear slid right no. This probably isn't the correct way to do it but it worked for me. Larry Short     

In the car or out of the car?  If out of the car, you can take a brass hammer or brass drift and drive the snout backwards thus pushing out the rear cam plug to get the gear loose from the snout.  The engine does need to be upside down to insure the lifters are out of the way of the lobes when the camshaft goes rearward.  To date I haven’t had to do one like that as I’ve been able to pry the upper gear off using two long pry bars on each side of the gear to work it off.  It’s necessary to also work the lower gear forward at the same time.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)