Profile Picture

Temp sending unit

Posted By MplsMike 6 Years Ago
You don't have permission to rate!
Author
Message
MplsMike
Posted 6 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 days ago
Posts: 189, Visits: 86.4K
Hi all,

On my newly rebuilt engine, is it worth putting the temp sending unit at the front of the engine? I see a hole in the Mummert intake. I understand temp reading may be better there than the stock location at the back of the engine.

If it is a good idea, how would I handle the vacuum controlled heater valve that is in that location on the current engine? Would I tee it off for both the sending unit and the valve?

MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN
charliemccraney
Posted 6 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)

Group: Moderators
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 6.0K, Visits: 384.5K
I don't think it's worth it.  The factory location works well enough for a gauge.


Lawrenceville, GA
MplsMike
Posted 6 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 days ago
Posts: 189, Visits: 86.4K
Now that I am digging into it, the factory location may not be easily usable. It looks like there was a problem with the threads and it’s been sealed up in a way that makes me reluctant to mess with it.

If that is not usable, are there other options for temperature sensing? Teeing off where the heater control valve - I think I would end up with an unattractive situation. Alternatively, is there an option to replace to heater control valve?


MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN
charliemccraney
Posted 6 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)Supercharged (9.7K reputation)

Group: Moderators
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 6.0K, Visits: 384.5K
The threads are simply a bushing that presses into the coolant passage in the head - you will have a core plug on the other head.  These bushings are available new or very easy for a machine shop to make if you can't get one for some reason.
They also came in two sizes, I think 1/4 and 3/8 pipe - confirm for yourself.  If it's the smaller, you can drill and tap it larger but then you would need a reducing bushing, if using the original or stock replacement sender and gauge.  Most aftermarket gauges come with an assortment of fittings for the sender and are pretty universal.


Lawrenceville, GA
miker
Posted 6 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 days ago
Posts: 1.7K, Visits: 173.1K
They sell a little tool to pul those bushing, and to re install it. Most of the tbird suppliers list them. I did it with the engine in the car, might have had to undo some throttle linkage, I just don’t remember. That’s probably your best long term solution. I’ve drilled and tapped my Blue Thunder manifold on the drivers side of the t-stat housing, but the manifold was off the car.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
MplsMike
Posted 6 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 days ago
Posts: 189, Visits: 86.4K
Thanks Charlie and Miker,

Miker, I searched for a bushing removal tool at some of the Ford sites and came up empty. Do you have a more specific reference so I can track it down? Thanks,

MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN
miker
Posted 6 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)Supercharged (3.9K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 days ago
Posts: 1.7K, Visits: 173.1K
This one ca,e up at concours parts, I think most of the ‘bird suppliers carry it.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

Well that link didn’t work. Try http://concoursparts.com , click on 55-57 Thunderbird and search “temperature sender”. The tool came up bottom of the page, specific to the size you’re removing.



miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
paul2748
Posted 6 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 3.5K, Visits: 471.5K
CASCO has the tool.  You first have to determine what size you have.  The 54-56 had the larger size, 57 and later the smaller.

I just changed one in my 312 54 Ford.  Pretty much a piece of cake.  I put a thin cot of sealer on the bushing before installing.  I did have to undo some of the linkage and push it aside (didn't have to remove it).

The tool is just a removal tool.  It's a press fit, you install  by using a hammer and something to push it in.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

MplsMike
Posted 6 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 days ago
Posts: 189, Visits: 86.4K
Thanks for the tips, guys. Wish me luck!

MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN
MplsMike
Posted 6 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)Supercharged (509 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 days ago
Posts: 189, Visits: 86.4K
One other question - when I dig into this, if it turns out the bushing is ok but is the smaller size used in a newer y-block...

My old engine had the 3/8” sending unit with the blade style electrical connection. It’s my understanding that newer y blocks used a 1/4” sending unit with a threaded post as its electrical connection.

Would the smaller, newer style sending unit work with the gauge in my ‘56, and is there an electrical connection available to splice onto the end of the existing wire that would work with the threaded post of the smaller sending unit?

MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN


Reading This Topic


Site Meter