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Battery Tray Question

Posted By Florida_Phil 6 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil
Posted 6 Years Ago
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My 1955 TBird was converted to a 12 volt electrical system before I bought it.  I have the engine out of the car.  I removed the battery tray to clean the frame and clutch linkage.  The battery tray has been modified (crudely) so a wider 12 volt battery will the 6 volt tray.  Can I swap in a battery tray from a 56 or 57 Bird to fix this problem or do I need a special 12 volt battery?


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Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 6 Years Ago
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If you go with a '56 or '57 battery tray, you will be locked in to a 29F size battery.  They are available from the repro vendors, or at the local battery shop.  However the local shop has them because of lift truck applications, and only have a 2 year warranty.  I think the metal battery shield is different between '55 and '56.  I think you could find a modern 12V battery narrow enough to fit in the '55 tray.

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oldcarmark
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I believe Interstate sells them (29NF) with  5 Year Warranty. I purchased 1 last Year to replace One that expired after 6 Years and it came with 5 Year pro-rated Warranty. Check with your local Interstate Dealer.

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Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Mark, thanks for that info.  Now I won't have to use poorly fitting group 24s in my Birds.

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jumpstart
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil;   To answer your question about battery  box.  I also have a 1955 T-bird  I changed it over to 12V 
I used my 1955 battery box tray, I went to my Ford  Dealer and ordered a Motorcraft  battery that was the same size
as my 6V battery.  That number is motorcraft, BTX-56  Amp 550  serial number 040914
I did not have to change anything. Works very well.  Bob  Harvey
KULTULZ
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Just FYI- If this can help anyone;

INFO URL- https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/BatteriesRevisit.php

The 56/57 BIRD BAT TRAY setup is the same and uses a different tray and heat shield than the 55.

Ahttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/707d57a5-b34d-4fc7-9d48-aa03.jpg



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Florida_Phil
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I straightened and painted my original 55 tray so it fits the correct battery.   I converted my TBird over to a dual master cylinder using one from a 1967 Mustang.  The brake lines come out the driver's side.  I snaked the new lines around the clutch linkage and it looks good.  It seems I will have to slot the battery heat shield to clear the lines. Do I need this shield?   Has anyone run into this problem?


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paul2748
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Keep the heat shield.  It will keep the battery cooler, even if you have to cut some slots in it.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

ian57tbird
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I noticed this post come up earlier and was just planning to make a new tray for my TBird at the time that would suit a conventional shape battery. Years ago I went through the process of trying to buy a battery over here to fit but never found the correct size and ended up putting some MDF in the tray and having a conventional shape battery sit on top. I started making a battery tray earlier this year but didn't say anything until I had made some progress.
Here are some pics of what I have done so far.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2cb1e77d-fd81-405e-a0fd-156a.jpg

Version 1 and 2 trays.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/e1e4d770-9648-47a8-84a0-4b07.jpg
 
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3f63d4cb-3bf9-4486-a516-3a00.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/ab9b81c5-890a-4206-89db-eb46.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/36185175-3ba3-49e8-b174-cadb.jpg

It has been lots of trial and error but I am now happy with the results. I was originally going to use mild steel but decided to use 316 stainless instead. The stainless has been much harder to work with but I think it was worth it. I probably over engineered it a bit as it has come out heavier than the original. The tray is 1.5mm, mounting brackets are 2mm and the heatshield bracket is 3mm so that it had a few turns of thread in it rather than welding nuts on the back like the original. What I didn't take into account are the mounting brackets which are much wider than the original so I could have gone to a thinner gauge steel to save some weight. Version 1 of the tray was 1.2mm thick more like the original but the 1.6mm on version 2 was much easier to TIG the corners. Still haven't worked out the heatshield yet.
charliemccraney
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Very nice.


Lawrenceville, GA


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