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That was recomended at the time by Isky who made the cam because of the zinc levels.
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On the break in use of that oil, I can't comment, but, it's "racing" oil, it's not intended for regular street use...
Paul
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When I was getting ready to fire up my new engine a couple of years back the concensus was that Valvoline Racing Oil was good for initial break in and ongoing use. Any reason why this does not apply?
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Dave V (5/12/2018)On the oil test website (540RAT) he shows that Valvoline Conventional 5W30 is more than adequate for our engines without the use of any additives. I considered 5W30 but fear low-rpm pressure might be inadequate for my 130K mi. original bearings (pressure jumps 7 lbs. when I let off the throttle). WOULD try 10W30, but ‘RAT’ site doesn’t list any conventional oil that tests high. Will instead use Valvoline 10W40 that does. Trading slight loss of cooling efficiency for proven wear protection seems prudent (?).
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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Apparently any day now.
Durham Missouri
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An easy run engine may never show a problem, however if it sees a lot of RPM with the oil cold it will, all you have to do is take apart the engine and look at the oil pump drive, I have a 292 here now that threw a rod on the freeway with no warning, I will take it apart soon however I know the problem was sudden lost of oil pressure.
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Cliff, After 20 years and 50,000 miles when can I expect a problem with heavy oil ?
Dan, There is no such thing as too slippery when it comes to oil.
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1960fordf350 (5/13/2018)Isn't it true that if your oils too slippery that the lifters won't spin and that can cause wear on the cam? Wouldn’t that same ‘slipperyness’ apply to the lifter shaft/bore friction?
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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You guys that run heavy oil may want to keep an eye on the oil pump drive spline, if it gets worn and strips (and it will) bad things will happen.
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As usual this subject brings up a 100 opinions on what oil to use.. However, we need to keep in mind that Y-blocks do not have factory roller valve trains like most modern cars. So, oils currently sold for late model cars with the "pinwheel gear" on the container, are mandated to have lower anti scuff additives, apparently for environmental reasons. Their anti-scuff additives may be marginal for our engines & are likely best avoided. Also, many of them are very low viscosity & not intended for older design engines.. It seems that 10-40 or 15-40 regular car oils are likely the best choice for Y-blocks..
Paul
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