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By Barnabasmc - 7 Years Ago
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I have a 272 y block that was rebuilt a few years ago (probably less then 5000 miles) and I was wondering what grade of oil I should be using. I having been using 5w-30 on the advice of valvolines headquarters but I’m worried it might be to thin. Should I be using 10w-30? Any advice?
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By paul2748 - 7 Years Ago
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You will get a lot of suggestions as everyone has a different opinion. I am using Valvoline 10-40
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By charliemccraney - 7 Years Ago
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If your oil pressure is good, then the 5w30 is fine in that regard. Most 5w30 will be formulated for newer engines which means that it will not have the suggested amounts of zinc and phosphorous - check with the oil manufacturer. If that is inadequate, then there are additives to bring it up to good levels or you can halve the oil change interval, or simply use an oil that is adequate right out of the bottle.
10w40 does seem to be about the average used in Y-Blocks.
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By 62bigwindow - 7 Years Ago
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I use Brad Penn 20W50. Probably a little overkill but it was at the suggestion of the guy who built my engine. I am considering switching to Penn 15W40 next oil change.
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By Dave V - 7 Years Ago
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On the oil test website (540RAT) he shows that Valvoline Conventional 5W30 is more than adequate for our engines without the use of any additives. I've been using it for years with no problems. My 312 will idle hot at 35psi and run 50 psi above idle. I can usually find it on sale for $3.00 a qt. Dave V
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By Lou - 7 Years Ago
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For the last 20 years I've run Mobil 20/50 with a Zinc active with no problems.I change filter every 3000 miles and top off oil and active, I change oil every 8000 to 10,000 miles.
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By Cliff - 7 Years Ago
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Hi guys, remember Ford wanted you to run 20wt, 20-50 is to thick
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By charliemccraney - 7 Years Ago
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Whether 20w50 is too thick will depend on your local climate, bearing clearances and / or wear. It certainly is an option to use.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 7 Years Ago
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Eye-opening revelations learned from that Rat site:
Zinc, etc. content is irrelevant. Only thing that counts is demonstrable wear protection. Also, oil volume is more important than pressure. Engines with excessive clearances may possibly benefit from higher viscosities, but I no longer worry about pressure as long as it exceeds 10 lbs. per 1000 rpm.
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By CobraJoe - 7 Years Ago
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Howmuch zinc additive should I be using?
Also, charliemccraney, not sure if you know it, but your sig photo doesn't show up:
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By charliemccraney - 7 Years Ago
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Around 1200ppm (.12%) is recommended. To determine how much additive you will need will require that you know the content in the oil you start with and the content of the additive and then require some math in order to come up with the right amount. Much easier and sometimes cheaper, to buy oil that is ready right out of the bottle.
I'm aware that my signature photo and many others are not working because of photobucket. I just haven't taken the time to fix it.
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By paul2748 - 7 Years Ago
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While I'm not espousing anything, back in the 80's a brand name oil, Pennzoil 10-40, had only 716 ppm of zinc 50's oils probably had less.
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By KULTULZ - 7 Years Ago
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The old engine oil debate...
"What was discovered through oil testing by several engine component manufacturers is that many older engines experience a short period of time during engine start-up where critical lubrication is insufficient between metal-to-metal lubrication points when using modern oils with reduced amounts of ZDDP/ZDTP. These same enhancers unfortunately have their downside: The phosphorus in this compound creates carbon buildup in engine bores and valvetrains..."
SOURCE- https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/
IMO- A pre-oiler is more important unless a very high spring pressure is used, especially if the engine has extended shut-down periods..
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By 1960fordf350 - 7 Years Ago
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The oil dilemma is as good as the discussion about assembly lube vs grease!! We know that too much zinc is also a bad thing too. What about the additives that are zinc replacement but don't contain zinc? Isn't it true that if your oils too slippery that the lifters won't spin and that can cause wear on the cam?
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By PF Arcand - 7 Years Ago
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As usual this subject brings up a 100 opinions on what oil to use.. However, we need to keep in mind that Y-blocks do not have factory roller valve trains like most modern cars. So, oils currently sold for late model cars with the "pinwheel gear" on the container, are mandated to have lower anti scuff additives, apparently for environmental reasons. Their anti-scuff additives may be marginal for our engines & are likely best avoided. Also, many of them are very low viscosity & not intended for older design engines.. It seems that 10-40 or 15-40 regular car oils are likely the best choice for Y-blocks..
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By Cliff - 7 Years Ago
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You guys that run heavy oil may want to keep an eye on the oil pump drive spline, if it gets worn and strips (and it will) bad things will happen.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 7 Years Ago
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1960fordf350 (5/13/2018)Isn't it true that if your oils too slippery that the lifters won't spin and that can cause wear on the cam?
Wouldn’t that same ‘slipperyness’ apply to the lifter shaft/bore friction?
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By Lou - 7 Years Ago
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Cliff, After 20 years and 50,000 miles when can I expect a problem with heavy oil ?
Dan, There is no such thing as too slippery when it comes to oil.
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By Cliff - 7 Years Ago
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An easy run engine may never show a problem, however if it sees a lot of RPM with the oil cold it will, all you have to do is take apart the engine and look at the oil pump drive, I have a 292 here now that threw a rod on the freeway with no warning, I will take it apart soon however I know the problem was sudden lost of oil pressure.
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By 62bigwindow - 7 Years Ago
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Apparently any day now.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 7 Years Ago
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Dave V (5/12/2018)On the oil test website (540RAT) he shows that Valvoline Conventional 5W30 is more than adequate for our engines without the use of any additives.
I considered 5W30 but fear low-rpm pressure might be inadequate for my 130K mi. original bearings (pressure jumps 7 lbs. when I let off the throttle). WOULD try 10W30, but ‘RAT’ site doesn’t list any conventional oil that tests high. Will instead use Valvoline 10W40 that does. Trading slight loss of cooling efficiency for proven wear protection seems prudent (?).
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By slumlord444 - 7 Years Ago
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When I was getting ready to fire up my new engine a couple of years back the concensus was that Valvoline Racing Oil was good for initial break in and ongoing use. Any reason why this does not apply?
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By PF Arcand - 7 Years Ago
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On the break in use of that oil, I can't comment, but, it's "racing" oil, it's not intended for regular street use...
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By slumlord444 - 7 Years Ago
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That was recomended at the time by Isky who made the cam because of the zinc levels.
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