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Dragster Engine

Posted By Cliff 6 Years Ago
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Cliff
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Here's a picture of my 57 Bird, it just sits, about 3000 miles on the engine (20 years ago), it's a B9EA block, Bryant did the crank, Isky RPM300 and kit, 471 cylinder heads (home porting), Spalding Flamethrower, all good stuff in the engine.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/59fbcb84-5f6a-4cbc-a064-fd37.jpg
Cliff
Posted 5 Years Ago
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More adapter work
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/53501404-dd75-48cb-9952-23c2.jpg

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http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/81abef42-c794-4b4f-b38f-da7e.jpg   
Cliff
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Working on the oil pan, welding and shaping done, needs detail, rear seal installed, crank adapter ready to go (mates Y Block to powerglide flexplate, made by Willcap took over 1 year to get it), a better look at the bottom end.
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http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/cc3e9c95-ddc9-4364-96cd-27d0.jpg 
Dave C
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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Cliff,
Enjoying your progress so far..
But gotta ask. Why didn't you make your mid plate and adapter out of the same piece?
I ran a mopar with a glide and used a TCI adapter it was 1/4" plate aluminum. I have another made from 1/2".
Almost finished with the one for my Y block and I am making it from 1/2" aluminum.
A question about the flywheel/flexplate. Since you are using the Wilcap adapter you must be using their flexplate.
I was under the impression that the flexplate bolted directly to the Y block without an adapter. If it doesn't then I'm gonna have to rethink my setup.

Dave
Cliff
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Well, the flex plate is a sb scruby 168 tooth (needed to be SFI), I was originally going to have a motor plate to mount the engine and the adapter, it turned out that the crank to flex plate adapter had to be thicker than planned (.990), so not wanting a 7/8" thick steel adapter (to heavy), I went with a 1/2" steel adapter and a 3/8 spacer (aluminium), as it is that thing is heavy. I also had a problem mounting the starter, if I used a thick motor plate it would move the starter to far from the ring gear, so I am mounting the starter to the motor plate at the bottom.
(I don't like the weight).   
Dave C
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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Got ya.
I built mine for using a 130 tooth mopar.
The Wilcap setup looked to be about 1 inch thick, and according to Patrick McGuire
when I asked if they would sell just the flexplate I was told it was a 130 tooth mopar. So thats what I built mine to.
I didn't think to ask if an adapter was required.
So after seeing your pictures I got to thinking, and had one of those Oh Crap moments..
I have to drag out one of my out of date sfi flexplates and see what I'll have to do. This was next on my have to do list anyway..

Thanks for sharing..

Dave
Cliff
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Oil pan and all small parts done.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/5f640e7d-bfe0-4912-8e34-4c9f.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/95e59381-7587-4f25-8d3a-54b0.jpg

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http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/eb256378-a6a6-4d30-86ab-0b00.jpg
Dave C
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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Ya got some skills there Cliff. BigGrin

Dave
Cliff
Posted 5 Years Ago
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No more mock up, assembled for real, I don't trust the MSD, so I'm going to remove the module (this is a ready to run) and just use the pickup. The engine is lashed and ready, next install the transmission and check the alignment and free play of the converter (the moment of truth) if I measured right all should be good, if not?, I mounted the injector pump lower than the fuel tank for an easier prime.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2da8479a-c4ec-4e0c-9e89-e2db.jpg

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John Mummert
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Cliff we just machined a few tunnel ram bases. Possible back up plan for you. Lookin' good so far.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2c0ef4dd-5dd8-408e-ba0d-74f6.jpg




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