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56_Fairlane
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 575,
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I'm on an epoxy kick tonight. Try epoxy on the threads. It'll hold for good.
~DJ~ AKA "Bleach" 1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
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PF Arcand
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Months Ago
Posts: 3.3K,
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The posted question has gone in many directions.. The carb is a mid 60s Ford Autolite 4100-1.08 (flat top), not an early Holley 4000 "teapot." I think I have the info I need now.. Thanks to everyone that tried to help out..
Paul
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scicala
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Years Ago
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blockhead2 (1/27/2018)
Paul, The main reason that the bowl threads get stripped out is that people think its a 1/4-28 thread. ITS NOT! Its a 1/4-24. The bowl is made of weak metal which I call pot metal that strips easily. Doubt if there is enough meat there to allow a helicoil but good luck. Chances are you will have to replace the bowl. If you do, make sure you use a 1/4-24 stud. Bill A
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PF Arcand
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Months Ago
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O.K. as 57 R Jim advised, the threads start in the lower body, not in the top casting hole. The threads are apparently 5/16" N.C. As far as I know this Autolite carb is off a 1965 Mustang. If I bottom the stud's thread in the hole the stud will need to be approx 4-3/4" long to reach the top of my air cleaner, (which I believe is an original 1957 unit) & include thread for the wing nut, which is also 5/16" thread. So, at least I now know what I'm dealing with.. Thanks
Paul
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blockhead2
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
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Paul,
The main reason that the bowl threads get stripped out is that people think its a 1/4-28 thread. ITS NOT! Its a 1/4-24. The bowl is made of weak metal which I call pot metal that strips easily. Doubt if there is enough meat there to allow a helicoil but good luck. Chances are you will have to replace the bowl. If you do, make sure you use a 1/4-24 stud.
Bill A
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PF Arcand
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Months Ago
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O.K. Jim, I'll take the top off & check it out..Thanks
Paul
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57RancheroJim
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Months Ago
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There are no threads in the carb top, it's a through hole, the threads are in the body. The original stud had a nut that helps clamp the top to the body.. If the threads are bad in the body the top will have to be removed to make any repair.
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jecklhyde
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
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Okay, I'll go with another cheap fix, maybe. eBay for a 3/8" HeliCoil, fix the carb top. Drill out the hole in the filter lid to 3/8"....nut, acorn or wing-nut.. Again with the "all-thread." I sort of like all-thread for easy fixes........local 'nut and bolt' store stocks most sizes, course and fine, even in 4140 grade.
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PF Arcand
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Months Ago
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As Stuey points out, the original stud was likely stepped from 3/8"N.C down to 1/4"N.C. I could make one like he did, although the base will need to be Heli coiled or epoxied in, due to stripped threads. Quite some time back, I enquired about a Helicoil kit & I think it was $36+ then, likely at least $40.00 now.. Thanks anyway for the information.
Paul
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jecklhyde
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
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Carburetor or top off....don't ant anything going down into engine. If there is room you could double nut a piece of "all thread".....one nut under and one nut on top....red lock tite. You can spent $20 and buy a 1/4" HeliCoil kit. No need to drill...just run the tap in the stripped thread hole and run in the new SS thread......break off the tang and you're good to go. Still probably need a length of "all-thead."....and, I'd still Locktite it. That is assuming that the original threaded hole was 1/4".
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