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HEI kits

Posted By jecklhyde 7 Years Ago
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Talkwrench
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Yes a Chinese one is what I was referring too, the referral is to HEI because you said this "Well, I got the HEI in "  If its another type [not HEI] as Charlie said then disregard ...

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/02c74785-3ce2-4b80-a66c-f31f.jpg

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charliemccraney
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I think Talkwrench might be thinking that it is one of the Chinese MSD copies but the FBO is a Pertronix distributor for another Ford V8 which has been modified to fit a Y-Block.


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martyk98
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I bought one last month for my small block ford 302. The only issue I have found is the vacuum advance needed to be tweaked. So far so good.
Talkwrench
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Now change the module and coil for a genuine Bosch ones. In Australia the 4 pin module is BIM024 and the coil is HEC 716.  Strongly advise to check the curve  as well.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/02c74785-3ce2-4b80-a66c-f31f.jpg

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Ted
Posted 7 Years Ago
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jecklhyde (1/17/2018)
Haven't received the HEI from Oregon yet but it should be here soon.
Charlie said to vacuum from center of manifold ; both planes.  Paul said plug the 94.  Ted revealed a demonstration of the 94 plug process on another thread.  Thank yous.
Here's what I'm asking today. Since I have my original 94 that I can kit and plug I'm thinking of making a 1" or so aluminum spacer to go, along with gaskets, between the carb and manifold.....and pull the vacuum from there.  Good or no good?   Work or won't work?  Thank you.  Never made one but I'll have no problem with the machining processes and suppose I can scan the nets for design on vacuum channel/channels configuration, size, etc...

Pulling the distributor vacuum from under the butterflies will result in ‘direct’ vacuum which is the same as pulling from the center vacuum port on the 3X2 intake.  The tune up (read that as the ignition advance curve) is simply different with direct vacuum as opposed to using ‘ported’ vacuum.  Ported vacuum is where the vacuum signal is zero at idle, vacuum at part throttle, and then back to no or a very reduced vacuum at ½ throttle and greater.  The factory tune up for the Fords starting in 1957 used ported vacuum which necessitates unhooking the distributor vacuum advance to set the initial and total timing.


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


2721955meteor
Posted 7 Years Ago
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i converted 1 from your info and it worked well,tho machining the cam of is difficult and requires  a carbide too. the vacuum advance on your picture is not the best ,i used the ford controller on 3 conversions no issues also there is a provision to retard timing on crank for those with 
high comp., I was told the dist you show is a early 57,later ones with the smaller weights require no machining,and the parts from 302s with electronic ign. will bolt right in.pickup coils endplate etc..i found your info excellent and with a drawing from motors manual showed easy way to wire. it covered the fact that some gin switches have to power while on start cold,swell how easy to utilize the retard often.
again your info was great. have 2 ys using ford dura spark  2. big improvement. 
GREENBIRD56
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I was faced with finding a good distributor system 10-12 years ago and finally came up with the following: I found a nice tight '59 model distributor - an AUTOLITE. it has this sort of flyweight system below the point plate...
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/a4456e19-20e0-45bb-bcd8-1f69.jpg
It is then possible to machine the point cam off the upper rotor shaft - in order to fit the trigger "reluctor" of the Duraspark II. Ford lit calls it an "armature". With the modified part in hand, you can assemble the earlier Autolite - with the advance deck of the later Duraspark II. With that trigger on there - many options exist - it can run a Duraspark II controller - a GM HEI module - or an MSD "red box".
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2dade511-d15e-4a0d-8c53-c361.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/22aa0a52-567f-4386-8841-49a0.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b0dfd3f9-a5eb-4a07-a916-dd8f.jpg

If you want to try this set-up, I can send you some simple electrical schemes that work to operate the coil. I have tried several versions over the years. One big advantage of the Duraspark II triggered version is that the controller electronics (which is the most commonly serviced part) is not in the hot distributor. By simple exchange of parts (never opening the distributor) the controller can be exchanged in minutes. The Ford Duraspark II controllers were never too reliable - and not high performance by any means (they have the same "dwell" as single points).    

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona
1960fordf350
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I replaced my distributor about 4 years ago with an Autozone unit.  Probably Chinese.  It was $60 no core charge.  Listed as rebuilt,  but no way.  It had the o ring on it like a 302.  Fit right in and go.   I did put a pertronix in it after changing the coil last year.    Never dealt with the 3 bolt 2 barrel.   My truck has a holley on it.  Good luck with your project

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2e6780b3-6e07-4836-8bf9-c3da.jpg


62bigwindow
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Email sent.

Durham Missouri
paul2748
Posted 7 Years Ago
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If you decide to use that carb in the picture with a later distributor, you should get a plug for the valve thay sticks out from the back of the carb (I forget just what it is called -spark control???).  It is a Holley part.  The vacuum hole on the back also needs to be plugged if using a later distributor.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ



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