Anyone here ran pertronix on a 6v loadmatic distributor? My 55 is bones stock 35k original miles and the points are shot, looked into swapping manifolds and distributor and all that but now im just thinking to leave it stockish for a nice cruiser since ive got my other car as a fun drag strip car. I cant find much on anyone using the pertronix on a loadmatic. Would also like to keep the car 6v just because it works and i dont see the need in swapping it to 12v haha. ANyways Im wondering if you guys have had good results or if its a waste of time and money, or if theres anotehr good route like made one of the accel units?

Blood stains. Speed kills. Fast cars. Cheap thrills.

Just my two cents.  If I had a bone stock 35K original '55 Ford, I would put in another set of points and drive another 35K miles.   I can't see any advantage unless you are going to change a lot things, then it's not original anymore.  35K miles on one of these cars is a virgin.  Do you want to be the one to deflower her? 

Im not opposed to keeping it points just wondering if the electronic igniton would be worth not maintaning points and be better on starting and all. 

Blood stains. Speed kills. Fast cars. Cheap thrills.

I wouldn’t recommend it if you have OD. With the brights on, the heater fan running, and the OD pull-in coil engaged, the motor would miss at high rpm with a Pertonix. I installed a dual point kit instead. I may never have to change points again, as it has run beautifully ever since

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I have switched  a lot of old Ford points over to Pertronix.  Never had a problem myself, but everyone tells me to keep the points in the trunk as a backup.  To be honest, I have never felt a difference between the two. Switching to Pertronix saves you from adjusting points, that's about it.  Others may have different opinions.  My 55 TBird has been converted to 12V.  The intake, carb, heads, rockers and distributor are new or rebuilt '57 units.  The '57 points and condenser are still in the car.  My car has a 3 speed manual transmission with O/D.  The O/D works perfectly. These modifications made a huge difference in power and drivability.  Of course from the heads up it's not a '55 anymore.

As far as starting goes, I time my car with a vacuum gauge.  It starts instantly when I hit the key, idles smooth and runs great.  The best thing you can do for your '55 is convert it over to 12 volts.  It's not hard to do and it makes a big difference.

My '55 had a 12v pertronix in a loadomatic distributor when I got it. It started and idled ok but did not like RPM very well. BUT it has an Edelbrock carb and was connected to engine vacuum. Not a good set up. I replaced the distributor with a mechanical advance and Pertronix and it runs fine. 

I have 6 volt pertronix in my 1955 Crown Victoria for the past 5 years I only use the car in the summer and on weekends never had a problem. I also have a 1971 Volvo 1800 daily driver with the pertronix set starts and drives fine . I may just be lucky

Pertronix Ignitor is popular and with good reason - hardly anybody today understands the rituals and arcane maintenance involved with contact points. My suspicion is not that many people did back then either, when they were in wide use. The manual recommends the use of a spring scale when checking the moving arm tension, contact face alignment tools, dwell meters, cam grease for the rubbing block etc. Lots of "fiddly bits" as our friends across the pond call them.

Couple this with the fact that Auto parts stores today carry absolute trash for replacements and it's easy to see why the casual vintage car enthusiast ditches them at the first breakdown by the side of the road. But it's important to understand how the distributor itself works, an electronic module to replace contact points is (in some ways) sort of a crutch or "band-aid". The distributor is the brains of the ignition system and it pays to learn how they operate internally. There is a lot more to it than simply setting the timing.

I would suggest getting it running correctly with points, with everything setup right there shouldn't be any noticeable degradation in performance. Above 5,000-6,000 RPM, maybe. How often do you think you'll be hangin' out there with the 'ole Y-Block?

Distributor is strictly a mechanical system, what happens is the runout and clearances and endplay inside becomes excessive over time. Mechanical breaker points need better tolerances or the dwell and gap will never remain stable. You'll pull your hair out trying to set them accurately if the distributor is all loosey-goosey.

What I'm getting at is wait a while till you have a good understanding of how everything works together. Get it running to spec with the OEM "stuff". Study the manuals. THEN, if you feel you must, drop in an electronic module. Remember a good set of points is serviceable for probably 8,000 to 10,000 miles. That's years and years for the average vintage car enthusiast.

Would there be any benefit to using a later distributor with the dual advance on it as opposed to the loadmatic i have now? Or would i need to swap to a later intake and carb as well ( which i have sitting on the shelf from other projects). The car is original minus the interior being redone in tuck and roll, and i have zero intentions of ever selling as it belonged to my grand dad years ago and i finally was able to get it from the owner after him. So keeping things dead stock may not be completely in the works for it.

Blood stains. Speed kills. Fast cars. Cheap thrills.

What carburetor is installed right now? Load-o-Matic requires the unique dual vacuum signals provided by the Teapot carburetor to work correctly.

Could replace distributor with a more modern dual distributor but you'll need to tune that as well. Not rocket science but you'll need to do your homework.