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New engine

Posted By Rowen 2 Years Ago
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Rowen
Posted 2 Years Ago
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A preliminary pic of my new John Beck built 304ci y-block. It will go on the dyno in a couple weeks. I will post the sheet when it happens. 312 sleeved to stock 292 bore. (Not sure why, I bought it that way) 312 crank and rods. 292s clay smith cam. Probe (mummert) 10.5-1 pistons. Mummert intake, rocker shafts, lifters, push rods. Edelbrock 600-650? Gonna try both. Also going to try a couple different spacers. Rebuilt 57 dizzy pertronix II + coil. Will have high torque starter soon as I decide which one. (Some help here perhaps?). Rex Performance 4 into1 headers.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/c5f66aad-eded-465c-acd6-66fa.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/f01dcf35-a4aa-4531-867d-e0f0.jpg 

Anyway, if I can figure out how I'll post a video of the run-in. Definantly pics of the completed motor.

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca
charliemccraney
Posted 2 Years Ago
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I like the color.  It's different.

With that cam, a carb bigger than 650 may actually be ok.  If work has been done to the heads, in addition, then bigger will probably be required to get the most out of it.

RE spacers, if you have the money, Hamburgers performance make a tapered dual plan spacer that might work well.  If it is a race engine, try some of the HVH or Wilson Manifolds or similar tapered spacers. For a tighter budget, the simple open, 4-hole, and divided spacers can help a lot and you can stack them in various combinations.  If you can fit it under the hood, 2" - 3" or more of spacers may help.

I've been using the starter from http://autoelec.com/html/y_block_ford_gear_reduction_starter.html It's been installed for probably 15 years, in a year round daily driver.


Lawrenceville, GA
Rowen
Posted 2 Years Ago
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Thanks Charlie, not really a race engine just built it with the parts that came with it. I may have told the story before but it was originally going in a 56 PU. Street/race engine. Fella had life get in the way and had to sell the package deal. Yes sir, the heads, G, have been mildly ported, hardened seats, stainless valves, 115lb springs shimmed to ?lbs. rockers have all been rebuilt and rebushed. Honestly, I am a novice at this and don't know all that has been done. I will of course have a complete build sheet with all the specs after completion. Interesting comment about the carb. He has a veriety of carbs on hand and I am sure we will find a good combo of carb and spacers.600-650 is a starting point. Trying to find a happy medium. Neither he nor I really have any idea what it will make. He built what he said was a much milder Y a few years ago that made 295hp. I will be satisfied with 304. Don't want to get any unrealistic hopes up for much more. This car will be drivin. A lot. Every day. Hard. Like I stole it. My retirement toy/project. I want to smell burnt rubber every time I fire it up. I am quite sure I will break a few things. Just as I am sure it will never be "done". Getting to a point of rambling. Sorry just very excited! Have been looking forward to building this car for a looooong time.

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca
Rowen
Posted 2 Years Ago
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For some reason your link cannot be found on my I phone. Do you have any other contact info for them? Thanks.

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca
PF Arcand
Posted 2 Years Ago
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For an aftermarket starter, check with Mummert. They advertised one some time ago that looked better than one or two I've seen.. And you say it's not a race engine.. That 292 degree advertised cam from Mummert, won't have any Granny's idle.      


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charliemccraney
Posted 2 Years Ago
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I fixed the link.

If it is a street engine that will be driven daily, then you seriously need to rethink that cam and the compression ratio.  It starts to work around 2800rpm, so you will need a really short rear gear just to have it operating in it's power band.  Mileage will be terrible and it will probably require race gas which is  very expensive for a daily driver and, unless you happen to live near a race track, you won't be able to fill it up when needed.  Big hassle running a cam and compression like that on the street.


Lawrenceville, GA
LordMrFord
Posted 2 Years Ago
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Stock converter is quite bad choice for that cam if automatic.


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Rowen
Posted 2 Years Ago
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Charlie, as I said, this is being built with the parts that came with the package deal. I will have to wait and see what John comes up with for a combo. Worse case, I will end up changing the cam out. I would like to change out the rear gear but a swap to a 9" will have to wait a while longer. If anyone has a 3:89 ring and pinion for a 55 I would be interested. LordMrFord. It has a T5 with all mummert 11" clutch components including a new fly wheel. As I said before, I fully expect to break something sooner or later.

Rowen
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Ted
Posted 2 Years Ago
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Be forewarned that the original rear differential ring and pinions in the ’56 and earlier Fords do not hold up well to hard performance driving.  If planning on hard launches and fast shifts, a 9” rear will be in your future.
 
Assuming the engine has an actual static compression ratio (SCR) of 10.5:1, then a camshaft with an advertised intake duration of 292° (figured at 0.020” lobe lift), ground on 108° lobe centers, and installed with 4° of advance will be right at 8.0:1 dynamic compression ratio.  This will require a regular diet of 91-93 octane fuel but will not be happy with a stock converter in an automatic tranny.  Going with any camshaft smaller than this without modifying the static compression ratio will cause the DCR to go higher which in turn will make the engine intolerant of 93 or lower octane fuel.
 
Here’s some math for the SCR and DCR numbers.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/72372bb0-964f-4557-84a6-2e55.jpg


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


charliemccraney
Posted 2 Years Ago
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From the first post, I understood that it is already together.  If that is not the case, then I'm sure John will suggest a more appropriate configuration for street use.



Lawrenceville, GA


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