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Florida_Phil
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
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I took my '55 Bird out for a ride last weekend. All went great for about 10 miles. Out of nowhere the motor started missing and wouldn't idle. It would rev fine for a few times then die. At first I thought I had a fuel problem. Popping off the air cleaner I could see I had plenty of fuel out of the accelerator pump. The motor was only running about 180 degrees. I took the ignition cap off to see if I had a bad rotor or a wire off. All looked good. I called AAA for a tow home. While I was waiting, I messed around with the points and it started running great again. It ran great for about 2 blocks and quit again. The first morning back in my garage the engine still missed. I installed new points and condenser and it started immediately and has been running great since. It made me nervous that I didn't find anything obviously wrong. My engine is a stock '55 292 with a rebuilt '57 distributor from Macs Auto Parts. Can a new condenser and points fail in less than 100 miles?

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Dobie
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Group: Forum Members
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The short answer is yes, new points and condenser can fail in a short period. Most of 'em are offshore (read that Chinese) and are not made to the standards the originals were. I suggest switching to electronic ignition and just keeping a set of points and a condenser in the glovebox just in case. Two good electronic conversions are Pertronix and Accel. Accel parts are available at any auto parts store that carries the brand.
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Gene Purser
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Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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I bought a rebuilt '59 distributor from Autozone. The condenser failed in less than 50 miles. Suddenly started popping and missing. I barely make it home and it died in the driveway. I put a condenser from another distributor in and it ran fine until I recently converted to Pertronix with the points and condenser and a screwdriver in the trunk.
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oldcarmark
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Been hearing this a lot recently. Seems to be Offshore made Condensers-not the Points.that fail.

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DryLakesRacer
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Last Active: Last Year
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The condenser in mine failed twice and after the first one I purchased a Pertronix ll along with their coil. Being wiser I installed their system including continuing to use my ballast resister and have never had a failure. Without a doubt it was the condenser, if it's possible for you to find a few NOS ones from BluePoint or even Standard it woul be worth a shot to keep with your points. Back over 50 years ago I learned from an old mechanic that if there was no growth from one side to the other side on the points, file and polish them and don't change the condenser. I follow this on my 39 Indian.
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
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Lord Gaga
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
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Replace the "condenser" with a .22uf 1000v FILM CAPACITOR from an electronics dealer. No more problems!
"FREE SAMPLE"
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petew
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 7 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (9/7/2017)
I took my '55 Bird out for a ride last weekend. All went great for about 10 miles. Out of nowhere the motor started missing and wouldn't idle. It would rev fine for a few times then die. At first I thought I had a fuel problem. Popping off the air cleaner I could see I had plenty of fuel out of the accelerator pump. The motor was only running about 180 degrees. I took the ignition cap off to see if I had a bad rotor or a wire off. All looked good. I called AAA for a tow home. While I was waiting, I messed around with the points and it started running great again. It ran great for about 2 blocks and quit again. The first morning back in my garage the engine still missed. I installed new points and condenser and it started immediately and has been running great since. It made me nervous that I didn't find anything obviously wrong. My engine is a stock '55 292 with a rebuilt '57 distributor from Macs Auto Parts. Can a new condenser and points fail in less than 100 miles? Same thing has happened to me , the condensers available today are junk . Is your car an automatic or 3 speed manual with overdrive ? The reason I ask is the overdrive cars have a ignition interrupt ( floor switch) that could cause similar problems .
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Florida_Phil
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
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My car is a manual transmission with overdrive. No more problems since I changed points and condenser, but I haven't driven it much. I drive the car with the overdrive handle pulled out. I don't care for the free wheeling in OD when you are coasting in gear. I have always converted my cars using a Pertronix module. This is the first points car I have had in years. Good advice. Thanks!

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Gene Purser
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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Phil, does your car freewheel at speeds above 28 mph with the OD handle pushed in toward the dash?
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Florida_Phil
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
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I haven't tried that yet. I have never owned an O/D car before. When I first drove the car it seemed like the rear gear was extra high and it didn't drag the car down when I let off in gear causing me to use the brakes more than I like. Eventually I realized the O/D was working, so I pulled the handle. I just installed a tachometer so I can tell what's happening with the RPM. I like to drive the car with the transmission. It seems to me the OD would only be useful on the highway. I may never use it, but I sure don't want the OD to give me ignition problems. I'm thinking about manually disabling it for now. I don't want to remove anything in case someone wants to connect it up in the future.

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