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Mystery Ignition Problem

Posted By Florida_Phil 8 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil
Posted 8 Years Ago
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I took my '55 Bird out for a ride last weekend.   All went great for about 10 miles.  Out of nowhere the motor started missing and wouldn't idle.  It would rev fine for a few times then die.  At first I thought I had a fuel problem.  Popping off the air cleaner I could see I had plenty of fuel out of the accelerator pump. The motor was only running about 180 degrees.  I took the ignition cap off to see if I had  a bad rotor or a wire off.  All looked good.  I called AAA for a tow home.  While I was waiting, I messed around with the points and it started running great again. It ran great for about 2 blocks and quit again.  The first morning back in my garage the engine still missed.  I installed new points and condenser and it started immediately and has been running great since.  It made me nervous that I didn't find anything obviously wrong.

My engine is a stock '55 292 with a rebuilt '57 distributor from Macs Auto Parts.  Can a new condenser and points fail in less than 100 miles?


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Dobie
Posted 8 Years Ago
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The short answer is yes, new points and condenser can fail in a short period. Most of 'em are offshore (read that Chinese) and are not made to the standards the originals were. I suggest switching to electronic ignition and just keeping a set of points and a condenser in the glovebox just in case. Two good electronic conversions are Pertronix and Accel. Accel parts are available at any auto parts store that carries the brand.
Gene Purser
Posted 8 Years Ago
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I bought a rebuilt '59 distributor from Autozone. The condenser failed in less than 50 miles. Suddenly started popping and missing. I barely make it home and it died in the driveway. I put a condenser from another distributor in and it ran fine until I recently converted to Pertronix with the points and condenser and a screwdriver in the trunk. 
oldcarmark
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Been hearing this a lot recently. Seems to be Offshore made Condensers-not the Points.that fail.

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DryLakesRacer
Posted 8 Years Ago
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The condenser in mine failed twice and after the first one I purchased a Pertronix ll along with their coil. Being wiser I installed their system including continuing to use my ballast resister and have never had a failure.
Without a doubt it was the condenser, if it's possible for you to find a few NOS ones from BluePoint or even Standard it woul be worth a shot to keep with your points. Back over 50 years ago I learned from an old mechanic that if there was no growth from one side to the other side on the points, file and polish them and don't change the condenser. I follow this on my 39 Indian.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
Lord Gaga
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Replace the "condenser" with a .22uf 1000v FILM CAPACITOR from an electronics dealer.
No more problems!


"FREE SAMPLE"
petew
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (9/7/2017)
I took my '55 Bird out for a ride last weekend.   All went great for about 10 miles.  Out of nowhere the motor started missing and wouldn't idle.  It would rev fine for a few times then die.  At first I thought I had a fuel problem.  Popping off the air cleaner I could see I had plenty of fuel out of the accelerator pump. The motor was only running about 180 degrees.  I took the ignition cap off to see if I had  a bad rotor or a wire off.  All looked good.  I called AAA for a tow home.  While I was waiting, I messed around with the points and it started running great again. It ran great for about 2 blocks and quit again.  The first morning back in my garage the engine still missed.  I installed new points and condenser and it started immediately and has been running great since.  It made me nervous that I didn't find anything obviously wrong.

My engine is a stock '55 292 with a rebuilt '57 distributor from Macs Auto Parts.  Can a new condenser and points fail in less than 100 miles?

Same thing has happened to me , the condensers available today are junk . 
Is your car an automatic or 3 speed manual  with overdrive ? The reason I ask is the overdrive cars have a ignition interrupt ( floor switch) that could cause similar problems .

Florida_Phil
Posted 8 Years Ago
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My car is a manual transmission with overdrive.   No more problems since I changed points and condenser, but I haven't driven it much. I drive the car with the overdrive handle pulled out.   I don't care for the free wheeling in OD when you are coasting in gear.  I have always converted my cars using a Pertronix module.  This is the first points car I have had in years.  Good advice.  Thanks!


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Gene Purser
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Phil, does your car freewheel at speeds above 28 mph with the OD handle pushed in toward the dash? 
Florida_Phil
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I haven't tried that yet.   I have never owned an O/D car before.  When I first drove the car it seemed like the rear gear was extra high and it didn't drag the car down when I let off in gear causing me to use the brakes more than I like.  Eventually I realized the O/D was working, so I pulled the handle.  I just installed a tachometer so I can tell what's happening with the RPM. 

I like to drive the car with the transmission.  It seems to me the OD would only be useful on the highway.  I may never use it, but I sure don't want the OD to give me ignition problems. I'm thinking about manually disabling it for now.  I don't want to remove anything in case someone wants to connect it up in the future.


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